The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a
single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other
relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt
coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the
power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other side of the oven relay is
wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open
circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in
normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is
connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other
side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power
goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now
connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is
connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay
turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2
(bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate
the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the
relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to
never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Here's what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke
internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals
momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally
exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and
solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to
replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find
replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter
brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally
from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using
both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8
amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade
terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again
(doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time
and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at
all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. especially these
small relays
Hi,
Here
is a tip that I wrote about why an electric oven will not shut
off.
Electric
Oven Problem Oven will not shut off
heatman101
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