Won't just stay in one gear. constantly doing gear changes on its own. Hardrock. Rear set, reguardless of which front gear.

Front brake light switch is located next to the hand lever for the brake. Look underneath and you should see two wires attached to a little black box. This is the mirco switch.

Rear brake switch is attached near the pivot point for the rear brake lever.
You should see two wires attached to a long cylindrical switch with a spring off one end. This is your brake light switch for the rear brakes. It may not need changing out, these are usually adjustable. As you screw them out, they make the brake light come on sooner, as you screw them in the take longer to come on.

Your front switch might need replacing, but another good idea is to check your wires for damage.

You have it right. Use a 12 volt test light to see if there is power between the gray and brown wires when the key is on. If there is power there, you may have got hold of a bad radio.


1990 Toyota Celica Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram
Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Blue/Yellow, connects to yellow
Radio Switched 12V+ Wire: Gray, connects to red
Radio Ground Wire: Brown, connects to black
Radio Illumination Wire: Green, do not use
Radio Dimmer Wire: N/A
Radio Power Antenna Trigger Wire: Black/Red
Radio Amplifier Turn On Trigger Wire: N/A
Front Speakers Size: 4? Speakers
Front Speakers Location: Dash
Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Pink
Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Purple
Right Front Speaker Wire (+): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Blue
Rear Speakers Size: 5 1/4? Speakers
Rear Speakers Location: Side Panels
Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Black
Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Red
Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): White

Your problem may be one of the following:
First check or just replace the fuel filter. Usually located under the car in front of the rear axle, drivers side.
Next, the fuel pump may be worn out. Usually they just stop working (running).
Next, check the fuel pressure regulator. Usually located on the front fuel rail, drivers side.
Is the vacuum line attached? Not leaking or rotted?

You dont need another fuel tank. Running a vehicle out of gas allows any trash or goo to get in the fuel system. Trash mostly is trapped at the pump inlet screen and in the filter. GOO can make its way into the injectors. Throw in a bottle of injector cleaner. A sure indication of a bad fuel pump is an audible constant change in rpm's. It sounds like it's changing gears.

Hi wrosser2

Two constant yellow flashing lights indicates three things
1. Low voltage. Load test your batteries even if they are new. You may need to take them out and charge them on a car charger. Your charger won't work without at least 20 - 22 volts. Your inhibitor on the charger won't close to make continuity to turn the charger on.
2. With an olms meter check your front to rear harness for continuity. If you have a bad wire, replace the front to rear harness.
3. Third and most costly is a bad controller. No way to check that without replacing it. Check 1 & 2 first.

Good Luck

mimobility

Hi,

The front O2 sensor is what the ECU uses to determine the correct air/fuel mixture to keep the engine running correctly, the rear sensor is purely to measure catalyst efficiency. Once the car has warmed up and the sensors are in what is called `closed loop` this means the engine is no longer in the warm up stage and the catalyst is hot enough to be working efficiency you should expect to see the front sensor constantly changing between rich and lean when idling or cruising at approx 2500 to 3500 rpm, the rear sensor should be more or less constantly reading lean. If you find that the rear sensor is mimicking the front sensor i.e. constantly switching rich to lean then it indicates your cat is not doing anything and you most probably have a defective cat.

Be sure before changing the cat to check for anything on your engine that could be causing a problem, air leaks on the inlet or exhaust system will cause the front sensor to read lean and the engine ecu to try and compensate by richening the mixture, this may artificially correct the reading from the front sensor but will cause the rear sensor to pick up a rich reading, similarly a slight misfire will cause unburnt fuel to enter the exhaust giving a rich mixture reading from the front sensor and will also burn the cat out very quickly.

Hope this helps and good luck, thanks for using fixya

John

Usually, it seems that changing the front sprocket is more cost effective and easier to do. The front sprockets are about $10-$20 and rears are normally around $40-$50. Usually 1T gearing changes made to the front sprocket are the equivilant of a 3T-4T gearing change to the rear. I personally would go up on the front instead of down on the rear. Right now your gear ratio is 3.846 (meaning every 3.846 rotations of the front sprocket, the rear sprocket makes 1 rotation) If you go down 2T in the rear (13/48) your gear ratio would be 3.692 giving you a little less torque and a little more top end. If you go Up 1T in the front (14/50) your gear ratio would be 3.571. This would be about the equivilant of a 46.5T rear sprocket. (If they made it) The nice thing about doing the front sprocket first is the cost. If you decide it's too much difference and you want something in between, you can put the stock 13 back on and then change the rear (and you would only be out the $$ for the front sprocket) If you start with the rear and decide it's not enough then you change the front you're out the $$ for the rear.

do u have a red as well or just two yellows if so it trial and error connect one to the constant and one to switched then program your radio channels then turn the ignition off then turn it back on if the radio stations stay then you have the right wire if they dont then switch the two yellow ones around

hope this helps pls rate

oh here's a wiring diagram for your car too

1995 Jeep Wrangler Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram.
Car Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Red/White
Car Radio Switched 12V+ Wire: Purple/White
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Blue/Red
Car Radio Dimmer Wire: Red/Black
Car Radio Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Radio Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Front Speakers Size: 4′ x 6′
Front Speakers Location: Dash
Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Gray
Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Yellow
Right Front Speaker Wire (+): White/Red
Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Brown/Red
Rear Speakers Size: 4′
Rear Speakers Location: Rear Roof
Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Gray/White
Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Brown/White
Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): White/Black
Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): Brown

Constant howl....usually wheel bearing.
Howl on acceleration.......usually rear pinion bearing (the bigger of the two on the pinion) in the diff (rear axle)
Howl on de-acceleration....the front (smaller) pinion bearing in the diff.(rear axle)

ok i cud help u, the color for power wire is yellow or red, front & rear speakers is normally white & gray...the both power wire's , one is constant the other only works when u turn the key, u have too hook ur amp up to find out which is which, constant ur amp will stay on...hope i wasof help