Only that old would be still be under warranty
call the technicians for a warranty fix
SOURCE: No power from Whirlpool.
The problem was a defective switch. There are 3 switches on mine. 1 on the top door latch, and 2 on the bottom. one of the switches on the bottom connected the power and neutral together, unless it was activated at the same time as the other 2, causing the breaker to trip or the internal fuse to blow. When unhooking the wire going from this switch to the other switch, everything works great now. Though I still need to replace the switch.
And for Basic 1. Yes my microwave did have a fuse in it it's ceramic, I got a pack of them at Radio Shack 4 for 3$ 250V 20 Amp. There should be a wiring diagram inside the microwave, mine was inside a black bag, so it may be hard to see.
Mine was up top next to the fuse behind the Plastic Grill and then a small metal grill. Some are behind the control panel, to fix this remove the screw at the top and then slide the control panel up and it should unhinge.
SOURCE: LG microwave model MV1526B
The pop leads me to suspect that the high voltage rectifier diode blew.
We have the service manual for this model and have uploaded it to our site here to help you. You will need the free Adobe Reader to view or print it.
A microwave can be dead for many reasons.
It may be the fuse, which is usually located on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.
If
the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO)
/ thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body
of the oven.
If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking
then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing
the magnetron thermostat to open.
Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.
When
checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read
open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
If
it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close
the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch
mount.
If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad
connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or
even an intermittent fuse.
You should do a continuity test on
the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of
course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in,
then test it again.
If you remove the fuse, then press the meter
leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and
make a bad fuse appear to be good.
If you or someone you know
decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and
disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.
There
should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the
control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is
very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: A circuit breaker tripped and
Our frigidare microwave was working fine and then it stopped the breaker was checked is there a reset button on the back of the built in units?
SOURCE: kenmore microwave model 665.61629100
20amp fuse above the control panel.. but behind the vent grill..
A number of kitchen outlets may have GFI switches, especially if they are anywhere near sinks. The GFI may have been tripped. There should be a reset switch in the middle of the plug. See if it's tripped, and reset if necessary.
The breaker may have been tripped. Most kitchen circuits are wired to 20Amp breakers. If this is elsewhere in the house, like in an entertainment room or such, it is likely a 15 Amp outlet. Microwaves can draw a fair amount of power. Someone using another kitchen appliance, hair dryer, or what have you, on the same circuit, may have tripped the breaker. Newer code may specify an AFI or GFI breaker for kitchen outlets. In that case, a fault with something else on the circuit may have tripped the breaker. If that is the case, and it trips again, talk to an electrician. You don't want a fault like that undiagnosed.
3) You may also want to try plugging the microwave into another outlet, even if the normal outlet seems OK
If there's wall power and a good plug-in, then you work back to the microwave itself. A number will have fuses. Also, there may be interlocks that kick in if, for instance, the carousel rotation is impeded - that can mean something on the carousel is hitting a wall, which can risk tipping something over and spilling, or risk mucking up the reduction gears for the carousel axle if it keeps pushing.
At that point, looking for specifics on your microwave model will be needed. You may also try the Microsoft Support approach - i.e unplug it for 5 minutes, then plug it back in and see if it works.
Hoping this helps, Good Luck!
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