How do you "bridge" a d.j. 2 channel power amp? it

Hi, I think in most amps switching to bridge mode simply means the amp supplies its total power through the left channel only. It's the best way to use all of your amp's power but nothing comes out of the right channel. Having speakers connected to both channels would simply mean that only the Left channel works, it would not blow it. Some amps have the speakers wired to binding posts and this varies according to whether you want mono, stereo or bridged. I can't help with the power board sorry

Hi,

Please state the subs impedance, but assuming 4 subs with 8Ohm Voice Coil you CAN'T run them in parallel in Bridge Mono because this amp's minimum impedance is 4Ohm in bridge and 2Ohm stereo, maybe a series/parallel connection work, but what's the advantage to run them in Bridge mode? This amp delivers 900W per channel at 4Ohm, you can run a pair paralleled for each channel in a safe way and without the high-risk of your amp being destroyed, besides, amp power at 4Ohm Bridged is NOT recommended for continuous use, let me know your results...

The Peavey CS4080HZ is intended to place 2,040 watts
per channel into four-Ohm-rated speaker
impedances. The "HZ" suffix is intended
to state the amplifier has a relatively high
impedance output and is optimized for no
lower than four-Ohm loads. Are you strapping in Bridged or Stereo Mode? Bridged Mono Operation
Both amplifier channels can be bridged together to make a very powerful single-channel monaural amplifier. Use
extreme caution when operating in the bridged mode; potentially lethal voltage may be present at the output
terminals. To bridge the amplifier, depress the rear panel Bridge switch to the IN position. Direct the signal to channel
A's input and connect the speakers across the hot outputs (the "+" binding posts) of channels A and B. Only channel
A's input attenuator is active while in Bridge Mono mode. Both connectors are strapped together, so either connector
can be used with a patch cable to drive the input of another amplifier.
Unlike the stereo mode, in which one side of each output is at ground, both sides are hot in bridged mode. Channel A's
side is the same polarity as its input with the minimum nominal load impedance being 4 ohms (equivalent to driving
both channels at 2 ohms) in bridged mode. Driving bridged loads of less than 4 ohms will activate the DDT
circuitry, resulting in a loss of power, and may also cause a thermal (overheating) overload.
Therefore, check the impedance of the cabs for each mode. Remember, if you connect two individual speakers in Parallel (+ to + and - to -) you cut the impedance in half. Two 8 ohm speakers in parallel now have a load of 4 ohms. Series connection + to - to + to -, will double the impedance. Two 8 ohm speakers will have a load of 16 ohms.
I have actually taken a two speaker cab with a 4 ohm impedance and opened up the back to re-do the wiring. I rechecked the impedance with a ohm meter. So yes, be careful. Whatever you do, keep the speaker lengths as short as possible. Buy really good speaker wire or if you make your own, go with 10 gauge wire.

More than likely you have lost the speakers... You sent TOO much power to them and likely the voice coils have heated and distorted and are rubbing the pole pieces and hanging up on them. If the voice coils now short some of the windings, next you will lose your amps as well. If you can access the cones, you can try gently moving them in and out with your fingers and you can feel the voice coils rubbing sometimes. REMEMBER ALWAYS check the RMS rating of the speakers against the RMS ratings of the amps... DO NOT fall for the "advertising" things of "peak power" and "program power" ratings... these numbers are to sell equipment... Use RMS continuous ratings when sizing amps to speakers. Typically the RMS continuous ratings are 1/3 of the peak or 1/2 of the program ratings. You will find amplifiers rated either way so you have to dig out the real ratings. In bridged mode the full output of both halves of the amp work together. Your speakers are rated at 1600 Watts continuous... I am not sure I believe that number even... you would be deaf in front of that quickly... Your amps appear to deliver 5000 Watts RMS in bridged mode... over three times what the speaker is rated at. Since you have the amps, set one aside and run each speaker from one side of a single amp NOT using full gain AFTER you get the speakers re-coned. I would recommend putting a fuse in the speaker lead to HELP protect the speakers when repaired.

Make sure the Stereo/Bridge switch is out on the back of the amp. If bridged channel 2 will be disabled.

just use the main left and right outputs of the behringer to run xlr (3 prong balanced) to 1/4 inch (looks like a big headphone plug) cables into the inputs of the crown amp. the mixer has the xlr outputs and the amp has 1/4 inch inputrs, sop the cables will have to reflect that on both ends. run the outputs of the amp (rca outputs, i believe, you may have to get a rca plug to 1/4 inch jack adapter, and then use a 1/4 inch speaker cable) to the inputs of the speakers, again, the amp has rca outputs and the speakers will likely have 1/4 inputs, so you will have to address that wil an adapter. have each speaker in its own channel.

Chances are you have a failure in the final amp stage.

Check the voltage on the buss where the output transistors merge via the equalizing resistors. The voltage here should be very near zero.

It is probablly in protect mode due to a failure. This prevents blowing your speakers.

You will need to have or do servicing on it. First verify that you can unplug ALL INPUTS and that speakers are connected and problem of the protect LED exists. A bad input MIGHT be causing this due to a ground loop.

Make sure NONE of your speaker leads are grounded or shorted.

Most likely the power supply has failed. Could be any component in the power supply section. Best to have a competent tech. check it out.

Send main 1 out to your Crown. Jump Mon send to PWR am insert.