The cold water keeps running at all times, filling the drum up, then when it is opened, all the water comes crashing out.

if it fails to stop running only at the rinse part of the cycle it is probably in the timer as the solenoid valve has to cut the water off when the washer fills for the wash cycle too. fills for wash cycle and cuts off water, washes and drains, refills for rinse cycle and water just keeps running? does this every time you run it? that's in the timer. bad solenoid (water inlet valve) would keep running even on wash fill up. hope this helps.

if the washer power is off or if the unit is off and water still flows inside the drum then you have an inlet valve problem its where the water comes in there is a solinoid that opens and closes most of the time if you have hard water that can cause that solinoid to stick open..just replace the inlet valve that should solve the issue

You will need to replace the inlet valve inside the washing machine. It is stuck in the open position. It's a fairly easy to replace. you will just have to unscrew the top[ in the back and lift the lid to access.

all rinse cycles are filled with cold water to keep the clothes from wrinkling.set up the washer to run with just cold water.start it,if no water comes into washer,shut down your house water valve that fills the washer,take off the cold water hose,stick it in the washer or if there's a sink or where ever and turn on the water,if water comes out of the hose then you need a new water valve on the washer

water vavle may be bad

Cold be the valve turn it off to check..Could also be drain on sink too low water feeding back ..good luck

its the problem of drum getting blocked by any clothes getting tucked up.also try to move the drum manually with the machine off.if it makes any noise its the faulty motor.or drum has lost its alignment.it needs to be reseated properly in that case. -------------- The water fill valve - The water fill valve is a mechanical and electrical part, the coils on the valve need electricity to mechanically open the valve to allow the water to flow into the washer....myth....the washer pumps water into itself...no, it does not. The fill valve opens and the house water pressure pushes the water into the washing machine.
No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can test a fill valve live for 120 volts, power to a fill valve coil and no fill = a bad fill valve. You can also test the coils for continuity, no continuity = a bad fill valve. Some Maytag washers have a fuse in the fill valve circuit, if this fuse let go the washer will not fill. Fill valves can also from time to time stick open and not stop filling. If you have to shut off the fill valves to stop the water from filling in the washer, you have a bad fill valve and you will have to replace it.

There is only 2 possibilities for the drum to fill with water after it has finished.
Firstly, if the empty pipe is connected to the sink outlet pipe, the water can syphon back into the washer if the pipe is too low, thereby slowly filling the washer when not in use.
Solution is to lift the outlet pipe higher.than the bottom of the sink.
The other reason is the inlet valve is not shutting off properly.
To prove if this is the case, turn the water off at the valve, if it is hot and cold fill, then turn the hot off only, and wait and see if water comes in over a period of time, if it does not then you need to replace the hot valve.
If water stills comes in with hot turned off, then you need to replace the cold valve.
If cold fill only , turn off cold and wait to see if any water comes in, if it does not, then replace cold valve.
Plz rate my solution.
Thanks.

Washer Basics: Filling with water:
The water fill valve - The water fill valve is a mechanical and electrical part, the coils on the valve need electricity to mechanically open the valve to allow the water to flow into the washer....myth....the washer pumps water into itself...no, it does not. The fill valve opens and the house water pressure pushes the water into the washing machine.
No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can test a fill valve live for 120 volts, power to a fill valve coil and no fill = a bad fill valve. You can also test the coils for continuity, no continuity = a bad fill valve. Some Maytag washers have a fuse in the fill valve circuit, if this fuse let go the washer will not fill. Fill valves can also from time to time stick open and not stop filling. If you have to shut off the fill valves to stop the water from filling in the washer, you have a bad fill valve and you will have to replace it.


Water level controls - The water level control is also know as a pressure switch, this is where you set the water level ( small - medium - large ). The water level control is responsible to shut off the power to the fill valve and direct that power to the timer so the washing machine can start up. The WLC has electrical contacts in it that sends power to the fill valve and when the WLC is satisfied the water level is correct the electrical contacts open power to the fill valve and send the power to the timer and the washer starts. Picture of this here. How the water level control knows when it is time to shut the water off is, a air tight hose runs from the outer washer tank to the water level control. As the water fills the outer tank air is pushed up the hose, depending on which setting you have made ( small- medium - large ) is takes a certain amount of this pressure to make the WLC cycle over and shut off the water and send this power to the timer. If this hose develops a leak or a pin hole the washer can over fill as the WLC may not be able to shut the water off. The water level control can also break down and allow the washer to over fill as well.
Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.
A couple of tips from readers (Thankx!! ):
~ If you have a loose hose on the water level control or tank end, use a plastic wire tie to help hold the hose tighter and make a tight fit.
~ The water level tube (tube that runs from the square box), access panel on the outer drum where the bleach tube also ends) from the pressure sensor switch (front panel) can become clogged.  Or the two holes from the outer tub into this square box panel on the outside of the outer tub can become clogged. Either clog, I am told by my help repair guy can cause the sensor to think that there is still too much water in the tub and so will not allow motor to activate spin.
~ If the water level control contact is bad, it may also stop the filling ok, but not tell the washer to start agitating.

POWERUP, YOUR WASHER COULD BE THE LID SWITCH OR THE COLD WATER VALVE. AT THE END OF THE WASH CYCLE, THE MOTOR WILL SPIN OUT THE WATER, BUT ONLY IF THE LID SWITCH IS ACTUATED. IF THE SWITCH IS BAD, IT WILL NOT SPIN OUT THE WATER AND THE TIMER WILL NOT ADVANCE FROM THAT POINT.
IF THE WASHER SPINS, THE NEXT STEP IS TO FILL WITH WATER FOR THE RINSE CYCLE. MOST WASHERS USE COLD WATER FOR RINSES. IF THE COLD WATER VALVE IS RESTRICTED OR FAULTY, THE WASHER WON'T FILL. IF THE WASHER WON'T FILL, THE WATER LEVEL SWITCH WON'T ACTIVATE AND THE TIMER WON'T ADVANCE TO THE NEXT STEP.