Wire is arcing just inside the tip - Hobart Welders 500505 Handler 140 MIG & Flux Cored 140 Amp Welder w/Cart

You could pass voltage but no welding current if the current carrying cable inside the mig gun has a break in it. Inside the mig gun is a braided copper current passing cable, if it only has a few strands of wire to complete the circuit it will not pass weld current.They usually break where the mig gun has been flexed over time.

Are you using cored wire? Or shieldgas? if the later, you may not be getting any to the gun.

If you are using solid wire without shield gas, you will get what you describe.

In the off chance you are using the correct combinations, you may have a loose connection in the circuit that adding resistance to the circuit and lowering the effective voltage at the tip. Make sure all connections are tight inside of the machine as well as the cables and gun assembly as well.

Hello,
If your piezzo ignitor is still sparking, but not lighting the burners, then you may have one of the following problems. 1) If you have a standard push button piezzo igniter or a rotary style igniter, check for spark. Can you hear or see the spark? It's hard to see the spark in bright daylight. It's easier to view the spark at dusk or dawn. It should spark an "arc" at the burner. If not, adjust it if necessary. 2) The igniter wire may have a short, causing the spark to arc somewhere else along the wire and not at the burner. Replace igniter wire. 3) It's also possible the igniter tip where it sparks has a cracked or broken porcelain portion of the igniter, causing the spark to not arc at the tip where it's supposed to. Replace the igniter piece. 4) Your burner may be clogged or rusted at the point where the ignitor sparks to light it. Clean the burner. 5) If your push button ignitor is not sparking at all, it may be stuck inside from being out in the weather. While pushing it, spray it with WD-40 to unstick it.
Hope this helps. Douglas

Arc blow could be the cause! Put your ground on the work piece and weld away from it. If you weld toward a ground clamp the magnetic forces will blow your arc around sometime. When taking a cert this simple mistake can make or break ya on your cap or reinforcement beads.

i believe that the trigger only send out the wire and does not control the arc the tip should be live as long as the welder is on

Fist look and check the contact tip. ensure the tip is the correct size for the wire being used as well as the wire feed rollers. the contact tip is were the wire collects the power,
If it's only 3 day's old send it back, dont star strippin it down or you Garantee will be made invalid.
ken

Your windings inside are aluminum, they may have loosened up where the positive lead hooks on to the transformer inside.
I had a miller and the wire melted there, you can re-loop the wire and re-fasten it if it melted short enough if this is infact the the problem when you take the cover off..

Several possibles: Plug wires arcing (run engine in a very dark area and open hood to see is there is arcing) Bad coil (same test look for arcing sometimes you can hear spark jumping) Distributor cap arcing inside or outside ( remove cap and inspect for carbon tracks inside cap). Module inside distributor bad (not too expensive to replace). Lean toward wires or coil.

Is your grab rollers tight? Is it a new liner in the lead? If you are using .035 wire you can use a .045 tip. I generally use one size larger then what is required. You have a lot less problems that way. When you use flux core wire on most wirefeeds you have to reverse your positive and negative leads inside of the welder I assume you did that? If there is any moisture inside of the liner it can stick because it is grounding out when you start to weld.