We have had the power wires that run through the swivel elbow at the end of the main handle extensions and the power head break after being repaired two times. The new swivel elbow and wiring connection was installed bya local, non-electrolux vacuum shop each time. What is the trick?

Although it could be a multitude of things that keep the power nozzle from operating properly, the most likely is, since it's an Epic series, Is that the power nozzle elbow assembly needs replaced as the fine wires and top of the elbow tend to break/short after 5-10 yrs. of use.
It's also very well possible that the power nozzle reset switch or hose switch at top of handle is defective. Try plugging the power nozzle directly into the hose handle assembly and turn machine on. If the power nozzle still doesn't work, it's definitely a problem directly with the power nozzle.

Hope that helps!
Mick

the plastic wands are a problem sometimes, but the most common failure is the pivot, or swivel neck on the power nozzle. The wires are bad to pull loose or even break inside. Take it to your local vac repair shop and have them look at it. You either have a bad wand or a bad swivel neck most likely.

HI There, When a Kenmore power nozzle cuts on and off, this usually indicates that your electrical hose has gone bad and has a short circuit somewhere. You can try and troubleshoot the hose to find out where the short is by trying to determine what position the hose is in when it cuts on and off, and try to isolate the short circuit by spinning the hose on both the end that plugs into the canister, as well as the end that plugs into the wand. Sometimes the short is in the wands, or even the swivel neck assembly on the power nozzle where the wands connect. I would say 9 times out of 10 though on Kenmore canisters, the problem is in the hose. Kenmore is actually manufactured by Panasonic, and the two brands use a lot of the same identical parts, including the electrical hose (most cases). If your Kenmore has a two position switch, with a setting for floors and carpets, then here's a link to the corresponding Panasonic hose that you can buy. The Panasonic hoses are a little more expensive then Kenmore, but the huge benefit is that they come 100% completely assembled, where as the Kenmore hose has to be assembled (which is extremely difficult even for me to do). Panasonic 3 Wire Electrical Suction Hose To Fit Kenmore Canisters On just a handful of Kenmore models, an additional modification has to be done with the internal switch. Kenmore must have had the hose modified so you'd have to buy the genuine Kenmore part, but luckily simply switching two wires on the switch will allow the Panasonic hose to work. Try just plugging in the hose into the vacuum first, and if it still doesn't work properly, then you can modify the switch. If you find that the short is in the wand or swivel neck, just use the comment field on this repair page and let me know, I'll be happy to follow up and walk you through either of these repairs as well. If this was helpful to you, please be so kind and rate the repair, or leave some feedback for me. This is greatly appreciated. Chris Jones GoVacuum.com

Did you get new wands with the power nozzel? The wires that power the nozzel run through the wands from the hose to the nozzel.The connectors at the end of the wires are fomous for getting too big and making a bad connection. This causes the on/off problem. This will only get worse if you continued use. The wires in the hose handle, the hose and the power nozzel elbow can all be changed out. You will not have to replace the hose handle or the wands unless the plactic has been burned. (A loose electrical connection causes heat). Take your hose,wands and nozzel to the shop for repair. Don't let the sales/service manager tell you that you need new parts until you can see the parts are bad. I think they saw you comming when they sold you the new nozzel.(just my opinion)

There are no hose specs. You have continuity or you don't. These are very problematic canisters as they age.
Kenmore canisters are very subject to dirt build up on internal contact rings where they swivel at the elbow adjoining the vac.
They are also prone to intermittent connections at the handle/wand junction and at the wand/power head connection.
Due to the weight of the head there is a lot of strain on those connections.
You never fix half the connection, always both, male and female components in pairs for best results.

Kenmore vacs generally have three male contacts at the machine end.Internally when the hoses swivels these contacts run on three brass rings which can also get dirty due to proximity to dirt. They can get dirty or dirt can fall into the corresponding female socket where the hose meets the vac. If you have just changed the bag inspect these connections near the intake port on the vac.
The working LED means you have a partial connection. Also try wiggling and twisting gently at the handle of the hose and where the wand connects to the hose and the power head elbow... you have 4 connections between vac and head

The deal with the Renny is that it runs off of circuit boards. Usually the problem of the main motor shutting on and off is caused by one of the Triac boards located inside the canister. Another problem could be the thermostat wire located on the inside of your motor itself. It's almost never the thermostat, so the triac board is most likely the issue.

As far as your power nozzle goes, the head eminating from the swivel body is in most cases due to an older design of the power nozzle. I would suggest investing in a new elbow assembly that includes a new swivel body as well as newer style of wiring that is proved to reduce arcing and heat production within the power nozzle.

In some cases, fixing the power nozzle will fix the problems you are experienceing with the main motor as the arcing happening in the power nozzle can in fact turn off your machine. So investing in a new elbow assembly for your power nozzle could in fact solve the problem in its entirety.

wouldnt recommenddoing it urself as it may have warranty. But if u have the head off and the elbow apart im not sure what parts u have. If u have both these taken apart. It is pretty much self explanitory. u need to take the prongs out of the one end. At the other end ot the wires there r two attachements. The end that is at an angle attaches to the reset button which is by the L shaped part. The opther wire attaches either directly to the small motor itself, or to another wire which has a plastic cover on it. The wires that you took the prongs off of the rest along side the little knobby piece and then you wrap them around the middle of the knobby piece. Slide the elbow sleeve over the knobby piece and then turn it so u can bring the ends of the wires out of the little hole in the middle of the elbow sleeve. When the is done attach the two little clips back on the the elbow the one on the inside and the one on the outside at the back of the elbow. reattach the prongs to the ends of the wires put them into the notches about the middle of the elbow sleeve. Reattach the little cover and ur done. If u have the whole assembly. Take p/n cover apart and reattach wires where they r already connected inside the head. Put the head back together. Feel free to give me a call 1-866-966-9350.

Most times you have to replace the neck on the powerhead. Sometimes the switch in the handle of the hose will have a bad solder connection. But S300 is not a good model number, also the powerhead has its own number on the bottom, so couldn't look up parts for you.

S3765-040, power head would not run when the handle was elevated. Problem was with wiring from connecter plug on power head swivel into the power head itself, because of the design the wire tends to develop a short. Test it by turning on the vacuum, elevate the handle, then when it stops running move the visible part of the wiring with you foot/hand. If it starts/stops then you have a short. Replacement part was about $10.