Ingnator replacement One of the gas oven ignators of my oven got a short circuite and the complete oven ( control pannel) shot down. My question is : Do this pannel has a fuse that burned when the short circuite happen or there is a posibility that the short circuite burn the pannel? I am buying the ignator and I want to know how verify the condition of the pannel.. Thanks for your help in advance JG

The control board should probably be replaced

The short answer is something is pulling too much amperage thru the circuit.
You would need to find out what is in that circuit then check for shorts to ground.

It looks like the controller board is shot. Get on the web with Cadco and request a complete parts list for the controller circuits. Meanwhile, pull the cover off the stove controls and blow in clean, dry compressed air over the circuit boards. Chances are you have a short or two in the circuitry!

Hi,
The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3663023-oven_not_working_or_oven_not_heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter http://www.fixya.com/support/r4572625-oven_problems_replacing_igniter

heatman101

F3 E0 5 Top oven sensor open Check for open circuit. Sensor resistance should be 1K to 1.1K @ room temperature. If not, replace the sensor. F3 E1 6 Top oven shorted Check for shorted sensor circuit, otherwise replace sensor F3 E2 9 Bake range over temperature At room temperature, sensor resistance should be 1K to 1.1K. If not, replace the sensor. If the sensor checks okay, replace the control. F3 E3 8 Clean range over temperature At room temperature, sensor resistance should be 1K to 1.1K. If not, replace the sensor. If the sensor checks okay, replace the control. F3 E4 10 Bottom oven sensor open Check for open circuit. Sensor resistance should be 1K to 1.1K @ room temperature. If not, replace the sensor. F3 E5 15 Bottom oven sensor shorted Check for shorted sensor circuit, otherwise replace senso

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

The technical jargon is,.....:
In order for your gas oven to work this is what has to happen: 1. when you turn on the oven, the range sends 120 volts to the glow bar igniter. 2. as the igniter heats up (and starts to glow) it starts using more electricity. 3. when the electric use reaches a set amount (say 3.2 amps) the range knows the glow bar igniter is hot enough to ignite the gas, so it then releases gas through the gas safety valve. 4. when the thermostat tells the oven controller that the temperature has been reached, the control cuts power to the igniter, cutting the amp draw down, causing the safety gas valve to close. 5. process repeats to hold oven temp until you turn off oven.

So,..........the solution is:
most likely your oven igniter burnt out. Find your model number, usually on the range frame just behind the lower drawer or broiler drawer (depending on if it is a self clean gas range or not) and order the correct igniter and replace it.

Hi ,I posted this problem as well (ROYP75) I fixed the problem by replacing the printed circuit board(this amongst other things controls the fan speed).If you can remove and replace self tapping screws and replace wires like for like on the circuit board you can do this.Isolate from gas and electric, remove oven back taking care with fan wires, wires connected to circuit board and fan connected to oven back once removed you will see circuit board and from their it's just a case of swapping parts .circuit board was purchased from espares .co.uk part no es660722 hope you find this helpful

This is usually due to the "brain" of the stove going bad, better known as the control module... not an expensive fix if you can find the part and due it yourself... you can locate it iether in the back right corner when you lift the stove top or it's under an access panel below your broiler drawer depending on model.