I am impressed...
That GE has the MOST USELESS... (in my opinion)
USELESSEST... wastes of "install manuals"
I have ever (attempted to) read...!!
I am here in the USA... and the wiring "lingo" (110V)
you are using sounds like USA Domestic...
((in FACT when I was young you were lucky to get
105 volts... now that I am old... I feel fortunate when
we are at 120... and LOWER (me thinks... to isolate
my SOLAR PANELS))).
YOU can indeed run your appliance... hot (L1)
to hot (L2) typically Black to Red in the USA...
but you really ought to have a E-Engineer write
a love note for your INSURANCE C0. & Fire Dept.
Your APPLIANCE model number AND wiring numbers
(three conductors) and colors sound correct for the REST
of the WORLD... ((and my 10 year old and 40 year old
Craftsman & HarborFreight 220 Volt (meaning it can
work )))...
I am thinking...
I hope you got a GREAT BARGAIN...
What country are you in...???
(fixya is San Mateo, California... USA (I think)).
(from your previous ANSWER)
https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/reference/chpt-2/wiring-color-codes/
Carnac the Magnificent
Hello Andrew,
behind the link you find all the wire code colors.
I hope this helps.
Kind regards, Dik
Wiring Color Codes
SOURCE: GE dryer barely heating
If this is an ELECTRIC dryer, you're supposed to read 120VAC at both L1 and L2. With the cord UNPLUGGED, check the voltage across L1 and l2 at the wall receptacle. You should read a cumulative of 220-240VAC. If you're only getting 120VAC, the problem is at your receptacle, which would explain why the dryer is not heating. The heating circuits and timer require 220VAC, while the drive motor only requires 120VAC. If the power at the receptacle is good, leave the dryer unplugged and check the continuity of the power cord from the end of the plug at L2 to the terminal block at the back of the dryer. You should read a short or 0 ohms. If the continuity of the plug is good, the problem may be a loose connection at the terminal block or a broken wire. If the continuity is bad (open), then it looks like you may have a bad power cord. Please post back if you have questions. I hope this helps you.
SOURCE: Hello: I am trying to replace a cooktop
The green goes to the bare ONLY.
Likely the black was used as a neutral and the reds were 240 volts.
You need to investigate at your panel. If you see the black going to the neutral bar, abandon it by capping with wire nut. If you see both the reds going to adjacent terminals on a double breaker, connect one red to the red and the other red to the black of the cooktop,
SOURCE: I have a GE extra large capacity electric dryer, 3
N is White
L1 Black
L2 Red
Ground is Green
Eric
SOURCE: I bought a replacement Dayton electric condenser
The tan/white wire can be insulated/capped and not used. Use and ohmmeter to take a resistance reading between the tan/white wire and L1 & L2. There will be no resistance between the tan/white wire and one of the others. This will be the common wire. Connect it to one side of the contactor. Connect the tan wire to the fan terminal on the contactor and the other wire to the common terminal on the capacitor (that is if you have a 3 terminal capacitor, if you have a 2 terminal capacitor connect tan to one side and the other wire to the other). Then connect the other side of the contactor to the common terminal on the capacitor (on a 2 terminal capacitor connect the contactor to the side that doesn't have the tan wire on it).
85 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×