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Ihave a whirlpool microwave RM278BXP----the fan starts running the minute the door id closed---but it does not heat. The heating starts only when I set the time and press start. All other functions seem to be ok. I have to keep the door open when the oven is not in use
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Aug 12, 2011 - 10 posts - 2 authors
My Whirlpool MT4155SPS-2 microwave oven has recently started to buzz loudlywhen operated. The sound is getting louder and more frequent ...
Whirlpool making intermittent loud buzzing noise Microwave ...
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Whirlpool microwave ovens making intermittent loud buzzing noise related questions and answers. Ask your ... ...loud buzzing noise and it doesn't heat. i just tried it again and let it run for 1 minute. ... Question about Accuwave Microwave Oven.
If your microwave buzzes loudly and produces no heat you probably have a defective power .... I have a whirlpool oven range and it's less than a year old. .... Humming sound stops when I open door to remove food, but when door is closed, ...
THE FAN AND MICROWAVE TUBE RUN OFF THE ELECTRONIC TIMER. OPENING THE DOOR SHOULD SHUT IT ALL DOWN AND WHEN YOU CLOSE THE DOOR AGAIN YOU SHOULD NEED TO PRESS THE START BUTTON AGAIN. IF NOT, ITS SOUNDS LIKE AN ELECTRONIC RELAY IS LOCKED CLOSED ON THE TIMER BOARD.
Is it actually heating or just making noise and acting like it's heating? (put a cup of water inside and close the door.) IF it's actually heating, then you have a shorted relay on the main control board, and you will have to replace the board. IF it's just making noise like it's working, but it's not heating, then the problem is 1 of the door switches is not working right (it's either stuck open or stuck closed).
This is a list of possible causes. 1. Defective triac or relay 2. controller is confused (pull power cord for a minute and see if it resets) 3.Defective controller or touchpad.
FIRST ,,MICROWAVE OVENS ARE REALLY SAFTY MINDED AND THATS A GOOD THING....THERE ARE USUALLY THREE DOOR SWITHCES NEXT THE KEYBOARD--THE ONE ON TOP AND THE ONE ON BOTTOM ARE PRIMARY AND SECONDARY SWITCHES,,YOUR PROBLEM SOUNDS LIKE ONE OF THESE IS NOT MAKING CONNECTION..YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO PRESS 'DOWN" WITH A LITTLE PRESSURE ON THE DOOR AFTER CLOSING TO SEE IF THE FAN WILL START,,,IF YOU NOTICE --THERE ARE 2 LATCHES(HOOKS) COMING OUT OF THE DOOR,,WHEN THE DOOR IS CLOSED,THOSE LATCHES ARE SPRING LOADED AND MAKE CONTACT ON THOSE SAFTY SWITCHES....THIS IS NOT A CUSTOMER REPAIR--MICRO'S ARE JUST TO DANGEROUS WHEN YOU TAKE THE COVER OFF--IF THIS DOES BRING THE FAN BACK ON--YOU GOT A BAD DOOR SWITCH AND SHOULD BE A REASONABLE REPAIR
THE OTHER SOLUTION STILL WOULD BE A CONNECTION PROBLEM ON THE KEYBOARD ITSELF-THE WIRES JUST PLUG ON THE CIRCUIT BOARD BEHIND THE KEYBOARD---STILL A EASY REPAIR--GOOD LUCK TUNICA
The capacitor and diode will not cause the problem you describe. You will not be able to measure the diode with an ohmmeter, the forward breakdown is about 5-6Vdc. The normal failure mode for the capacitor is a short which will blow the fuse. If any high voltage components go bad, the microwave will operate normally just not heat. You should focus on the door interlock switches and safety thermostats, especially the cavity thermostat located somewhere on the top of the cavity.
To make a high voltage diode tester, wire up a 9V battery, LED and a 220 ohm resistor. Hooked up one way the LED will light reverse the connection the LED will not light.
If you need further assistance, let me know Regards, reg501
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