Anchor pulls up won't release to go down on either of the two switches

Hi Johnnie:
Just did this fix on a GM. Should be similar for you.
If you can open the drivers door and put a cushion on the grougd to ease your knees, kneel next to the open door and look up under the dash where the release is located. You may need a flashlight, but the intent is to be able to see while you activate the release lever a few times.
What you will probably see is a sheathed cable. The end of the cable or the sheath anchor (rubber grommet in slot?) will probably be disconnected. The end of the cable has a knob that engages the release lever.
Make sure the vehicle transmission is in park. Use pliers or vice grips to pull the release lever.
First attach cable knob in release lever.
Then secure sheath anchor in slot.
Cheers.

Most newer models have a safety feature called
shift interlock. This prevents the key from being turned back
to the lock position if you forget to place the gear selector in park.
Depending on the model,
If it uses a cable, it may be sticking or needs adjusting.
If it uses an electrical solenoid. may be blown fuse or park switch.
Tap, shake, and pull up on the shifter and make sure it's in park.

The anchor is put into the wall in a pilot hole, a mounting post is inserted into the wall anchor, Afterwards the mounting post is pressed firmly until it clicks to stay in the mounting post with the handle down. The locking tab on the mounting post is faced down to fit into the specific area to stay put.

• If this was over tightened it will be difficult to get off.
  
• Try moving the handle from side to side, while pulling the unit off.
• If all else fails, put tape around the handle, then slide a flat head screw driver under neath, and lift up. the anchor bolt will now want to come out but it can be cut off. Push it back in. Repair the hole and try again if you are moving it anyway.

Hello: The electric pull down assembly is the hook for the trunk to latch to. If the pull down assembly is not broken the a pull down switch may correct your problem, it is mounted on the side of the pull down assembly.

I have two deckhand anchor units. I ve tested both on battery, and both went up. I replaced switches, and I get nothing, but I heard a light click coming from unit. Is the motor bad?

Is this the main fuse???
600watts motor on a 12V system drops 50amps...
You should have an 80 or even 100 amps fuse for the power cables!

if you use a phillips screwdriver and put it in the gap where the latch on the hatch holds onto the anchor plate, while pulling down on the screw driver, press or pull the door release. this should release the latch.

Hope this is of some help.
Ed

i took the tip you all gave me to look in the trunk.i had done that before, but now i looked closer and
experiment a bit more and found out how to remove the old speakers.they are easily accessible from
the trunk.the one on the driver side is trickier cause there is an amp. mounted right under it which has
to be removed first to get to the speaker.they are held up (speakers) by plastic pins and anchors not
bolts and nuts.grip the head of the pin with pliers and gently pull straight down till the pin comes down
enough to release the anchor and they come out of the hole.for the amp. take only the 2 screws in the
front off and loosen the 2 in the back and it slides out;I also removed 2 screws in the side of bracket of
the amp.so i could move it a bit for more room to work on.when putting in the pins and anchors back pull
pin all the way back in the anchor, pinch it and insert it in the hole as far as possible then push the pin
up to lock in place.I used the back of a socket wrench with a rubber handle to push the pins up into
place it worked like a dream.

3 terminals.. 1 power input & 2 x outputs

Main positive goes to 1 terminal = power in to switch.

The anchor goes to another terminal = power out from switch to anchor

3rd terminal is another output for lights/anchor.