1. Plug failure in receptacle, burned and tripped breaker. 2. water inlet valve leaking need replaced part#000000377 3. runs through cycles compressor wont energize. Does when manually push in contactor. no red lights on circuit board I think top two lights lit, 4 and 5 alternate according to cycle

At a guess, you have a leak or a damaged seal/insulation around some switch/wire in the washer. Assuming a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupt) breaker, some wiring is getting damp at the end of the washer cycle and triggering the breaker when you try to run a second load. This wiring dries out overnight and thus doesn't trip the breaker on the first load.

To check if the GFCI breaker/outlet, try plugging the washer into a outlet on a different breaker. Use an indoor/outdoor rated extension cord appropriate for the electrical load. If the second circuit is GFCI-protected and the breaker trips, check the machine for leaks or damaged insulation on a wire or several wires. If the lid switch is getting damp, that would stop the machine. The leak or damaged area is probably fairly small since it takes the full cycle to get the breaker to trip. If the breaker doesn't trip, replace the breaker or outlet. Get an electrician to do the replacement if you aren't comfortable doing this.

Alternatively, the washer is overheating and cooling down overnight. I've heard of the inlet water solenoids tripping a circuit breaker when the inlet water lines have clogged screens. Similarly, if the motor is overheating at the spin cycle, you might see this. You can try using a meter to see if the current draw changes during the washer cycle. Alternatively, try start the second load an hour or several hours after the first (just less than the 24 hour pattern you've tested).

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run additional loads.

if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.

Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

F20 ERROR CODE NO WATER DETECTED ENTERING MACHINE OR PRESSURE SWITCH TRIP NOT DETECTED.
The pressure switch is not tripped after 6 minutes.
Possible Causes/Procedure ? If there is no water in the unit: - Make sure that both valves at the water source(s) are turned on all the way. - Check for plugged or kinked inlet hoses or plugged screens in the inlet valves. - Verify inlet valve operation. ? If there is water in the unit: - Verify drain pump operation. - Verify that the pressure switch hose is in good condition and properly connected to tub and pressure switch. 1. Verify there is not a siphon problem. 2. Press STOP twice to clear the display. The machine will drain for 3 minutes before unlocking the door. 3. Unplug washer or disconnect power. 4. Verify wire harness connections to inlet valves, pressure switch, drain pump and Central Control Unit (CCU). 5. Check all hoses for possible leaks. 6. Plug in washer or reconnect power 7. Verify pressure switch operation. 8. Verify CCU operation by running a Diagnostic Test or any cycle.

NO WATER DETECTED ENTERING MACHINE OR PRESSURE SWITCH TRIP NOT DETECTED.
The pressure switch is not tripped after 6 minutes.

If there is no water in the unit:

Follow the links
Make sure that both valves at the water source(s) are turned on all the way.
Check for plugged or kinked inlet hoses or plugged screens in the inlet valves.
Verify inlet valve operation.
If there is water in the unit:
Verify drain pump operation.
Verify that the pressure switch hose is in good condition and properly connected to tub and pressure switch.
1. Verify there is not a siphon problem.
2. Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display. The machine will drain for 3 minutes before unlocking the door.
3. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
4. Verify wire harness connections to inlet valves, pressure switch, drain pump and Central Control Unit (CCU).
5. Check all hoses for possible leaks.
6. Plug in washer or reconnect power
7. Verify pressure switch operation.
8. Verify CCU operation by running a Diagnostic Test or any cycle.

FH = (No water detected entering machine or pressure switch trip not detected)

If after 30 seconds the control does not detect water entering machine, the valves will be turned off and the error code will be displayed.
OR
If the control has turned the water valves on, and after 8 minutes, the flow sensor has detected 10.5 gallons of water passing through it, but has not detected the pressure switch trip, the valves will be turned off, and the error code will flash.

Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display.

Possible Causes / Procedure

• If there is no water in the unit:
- Make sure that both valves at the water source(s) are turned on all the way.
- Check for plugged or kinked inlet hoses or plugged screens in the inlet valves.
- Verify inlet valve operation.

• If there is water in the unit:
- Verify drain pump operation.
- Verify that the pressure switch hose is in good condition and properly connected to tub
and pressure switch.

1. Verify there is not a siphon problem.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Verify wire harness connections to inlet valves, pressure switch, drain pump, flow meter,
and Central Control Unit (CCU).
4. Check all hoses for possible leaks.
5. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
6. Verify pressure switch operation.
7. Verify flow meter operation by blowing air through the part and measuring the resistance.
8. Verify CCU operation by running a Diagnostic test or any cycle.

Replace failed component.(Which will be the pressure switch if all checks out ok, above)

FH

No water detected entering machine or pressure switch trip not detected

If after 30 seconds the control does not detect water entering machine, the valves will be turned off and the error code will be displayed.
OR
If the control has turned the water valves on, and after 8 minutes, the flow sensor has detected 10.5 gallons of water passing through it, but has not detected the pressure switch trip, the valves will be turned off, and the error code will flash.

Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display.

Possible Causes / Procedure

• If there is no water in the unit:
- Make sure that both valves at the water source(s) are turned on all the way.
- Check for plugged or kinked inlet hoses or plugged screens in the inlet valves.
- Verify inlet valve operation.

• If there is water in the unit:
- Verify drain pump operation.
- Verify that the pressure switch hose is in good condition and properly connected to tub
and pressure switch.

1. Verify there is not a siphon problem.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Verify wire harness connections to inlet valves, pressure switch, drain pump, flow meter,
and Central Control Unit (CCU).
4. Check all hoses for possible leaks.
5. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
6. Verify pressure switch operation.
7. Verify flow meter operation by blowing air through the part and measuring the resistance.
8. Verify CCU operation by running a Diagnostic test or any cycle.

Replace failed component.(usually this will be failed pressure switch. the hose should be replaced as well)

If you cannot see the water leaking from the inlet valves, check the seal just above the water pump located directly under the drum. I am in the midst of awaiting parts to fix this very thing on my FP GWL11. This leak is dripping water directly onto the motor, causing it to trip the circuit breaker during drain/spin cycles.

Note... I have also had to have the inlet valve assembly replaced as well as it was not opening to allow cold water to mix with the hot.

Hope this helps.

failure code  :---F/H means :----No water detected entering machine or Pressure switch trip not detected.
If after 30 seconds the control does not detect water entering machine and then valves will be turned off and the error code will be displayed.
Or
If the control has turned the water valves on and after 8 minutes the flow meter has detected 10.5 gallons of water passing through it, but has not detected the pressure switch trip, the valves will be turned off and the error code will flash.
 to resolve this problem this instructions should be tried 
Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display.

• If there is no water in the unit:
  1. Make sure that both valves at the water source(s) are turned on all the way.
  2. Check for plugged or kinked inlet hoses or plugged screens in the inlet valves 
  3. Verify inlet valve operation
• If there is water in the unit:
  1. Verify Drain pump operation
  2. Pressure Switch Hose is in good condition and properly connected to Tub and Pressure switch
• Verify there is not a siphon problem
• Verify wire harness connections to:Inlet Valves, Pressure Switch, Drain Pump, Flow Meter, and Central Control Unit (CCU)
• Check all hoses for possible leaks
• Verify pressure switch operation
  
• Verify flow meter operation
• Verify CCU operati

Is the power cord plugged into a grounded 3 prong outlet?
Plug power cord into a grounded 3 prong outlet.
Are you using an extension cord?
Do not use an extension cord.
Has a household fuse blown, or has a circuit breaker tripped?
Check to see if a household circuit breaker or Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) outlet has tripped. If so, reset the circuit breaker or Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter. If the washer is on a fuse box, check to see if a fuse has blown and replace it, if necessary. If the problem continues to occur, call an electrician.
Are both the hot and cold water faucets turned on?
Turn on the water. Check the household faucets to see if the hot and cold water faucets are turned on. Make sure to open both faucets completely for proper fill.
NOTE: Both hot and cold water must be connected to the washer and turned on. The washer will not operate properly with only one incoming source of water.
Is the water inlet hose kinked?

Straighten the water inlet hoses.
Are the water inlet valve screens on the washer clogged?


Turn off the water and remove the inlet hoses from the washer. Remove any accumulated film or particles. Reinstall hoses, turn on water and check for leaks.
Is the washer in a normal pause in the cycle?
The washer pauses for about 2 minutes during certain cycles. Allow the cycle to continue. Some cycles feature periods of tumbling and soaking.
Is the washer door firmly shut?
The door must be completely closed for the washer to operate. The door may look closed, but may not be latched. Open the door and close firmly.
Are the shipping bolts removed?

All four shipping bolts must be removed from the rear of the washer before you operate the washer. Each unit is shipped from the factory with four bolts, which are designed to protect the washer during shipping. Failure to remove all of the shipping bolts, and the four plastic spacers that are with them, can result in noise, vibration, error codes and possible machine damage.
Has a cycle been selected, but Start has not been selected and held for 1 second?
Press and hold Start for 1 second.
Is the Control Locked status light on?
Press and hold the End of Cycle Signal button for three seconds. This will turn off the Control Lock feature.
Is the Delay Wash status light on?
Your washer will start after the selected hours of delay are completed.
Was the door left closed after the last cycle?
The washer door must be opened and closed again to start a new cycle. If the door is not opened between cycles, the washer may not start.

Is the power cord plugged into a grounded 3 prong outlet?
Plug power cord into a grounded 3 prong outlet.
Are you using an extension cord?
Do not use an extension cord.
Has a household fuse blown, or has a circuit breaker tripped?
Check to see if a household circuit breaker or Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) outlet has tripped. If so, reset the circuit breaker or Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter. If the washer is on a fuse box, check to see if a fuse has blown and replace it, if necessary. If the problem continues to occur, call an electrician.
Are both the hot and cold water faucets turned on?
Turn on the water. Check the household faucets to see if the hot and cold water faucets are turned on. Make sure to open both faucets completely for proper fill.
NOTE: Both hot and cold water must be connected to the washer and turned on. The washer will not operate properly with only one incoming source of water.
Is the water inlet hose kinked?

Straighten the water inlet hoses.
Are the water inlet valve screens on the washer clogged?
Turn off the water and remove the inlet hoses from the washer. Remove any accumulated film or particles. Reinstall hoses, turn on water and check for leaks.

Is the washer in a normal pause in the cycle?
The washer pauses for about 2 minutes during certain cycles. Allow the cycle to continue. Some cycles feature periods of tumbling and soaking.
Is the washer door firmly shut?
The door must be completely closed for the washer to operate. The door may look closed, but may not be latched. Open the door and close firmly.
Are the shipping bolts removed?


All four shipping bolts must be removed from the rear of the washer before you operate the washer. Each unit is shipped from the factory with four bolts, which are designed to protect the washer during shipping. Failure to remove all of the shipping bolts, and the four plastic spacers that are with them, can result in noise, vibration, error codes and possible machine damage.
Has a cycle been selected, but Start has not been selected and held for 1 second?
Press and hold Start for 1 second.
Is the Control Locked status light on?
Press and hold the End of Cycle Signal button for three seconds. This will turn off the Control Lock feature.
Is the Delay Wash status light on?
Your washer will start after the selected hours of delay are completed.
Was the door left closed after the last cycle?
The washer door must be opened and closed again to start a new cycle. If the door is not opened between cycles, the washer may not start.