Wont get hot element tested good - Kenmore 659 Electric Dryer

heating elements are resistors that get hot
one end will have 115 volts but the other end should be considerable less because the resistance of the heating element drops the voltage
if you used a ohm meter you should be reading a resistance of 500-1000 ohms for a good heater element but with your readings , there will be no resistance so the element is faulty

Some dryers have a hi limit safety switch that is a one time fuse type switch . If the dryer gets too hot this switch opens and prevents the heating element from operating it is usually about 1/2" wide x 2" long plastic part with two wires attached to it.
You can test this part with a continuity tester. Unplug dryer, remove wires and test for continuity between the terminals. No continuity means the part needs to be replaced.
Hope this helps.
Bo

Did you pull the element out and test it? I think it is your heating element. Visually inspecting is never enough. Just hook it up to high voltage independently to ensure it heats. It will turn red hot.

test the parts and fix it. God bless you

Test and replace a heating element:

1. Turn off power at the electric service panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
   
2. Remove the access panel on the electric water heater.
   
3. Disconnect one of the element wires and set a multimeter to RX1000 (resistance times 1,000). Touch one probe to an element mounting bolt and the other to each element terminal screw, in turn. If the tester displays anything but infinity ( open circuit), replace the element.
   
4. If necessary, set the multimeter to RX1 and touch the probes to the terminal screws. If there is any resistance reading at all ( closed circuit), then the element is good. If not, replace it. Both upper and lower elements are tested in the same manner.
   
5. To remove the element, first drain the heater.
   
6. Disconnect the remaining element wire. Remove the mounting bolts holding the element in place. Remove the element.
   
7. Replace the heating element with one of the same model, shape, and rating. Make sure you also replace any installation gaskets.
   

Test and replace a high-limit cutoff:

1. Disconnect power to the heater at the electric service panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
2. Remove the upper access panel and push the reset button.
3. Replace the access panel and turn the power back on. If the water is hot, the reset was the problem. If not, you'll need to turn the power off again and reopen the access panel.
4. Use a multimeter to test the cutoff terminals for continuity. If faulty, replace with an exact replacement part.

Copy following link for step-by-step
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html

You might want to test them first.
If water heater has some hot water, then upper element is good.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

If elements test good, then problem can be thermostats.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

You have dual-element 240Volt electric water heater.
Since you have some hot water, then we know upper element is good, and that circuit breaker and electricity to water heater are good.
Not enough hot water is probably bad lower element, and possibly sediment build-up in bottom of tank.
Test element:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
Replace 4500 watt element available at local hardware, and clean out bottom of tank:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Not really. Lookkon the lint trap housing you will see a thermostat. This is more than likley the issue.

You say the hot water runs out after one shower.
You posted under electric heater.

In case you have a gas heater:
With gas heater, the flame quality could be bad because of restricted air flow or dirty burner, the control valve and thermostat could be bad, the air intake could be clogged, or the water heater is full of sediment and the flame is burning all the time and unable to heat much water.

With electric heater, the lower element is probably burned out and bottom filled with sediment, but thermostats could be bad, or you could have shorted wire.

Narrow down the suspects
If water heater makes some hot water then upper element is working.

Three remaining suspects are upper thermostat, lower thermostat, lower element, and possibly a loose wire

Check screw terminals for signs of burning and loose wires. Especially check lower element.

Let's test lower element.
Turn off power.
Remove both wires from lower element.
Test across both screws with a continuity tester.
Continuity tester is available at hardware store, or you can make one with battery, wire and a flashlight bulb.

The continuity tester has a battery and when light comes on, it says the circuit is complete.
Test1) Test across both screws on lower element with continuity tester.
If light comes on then element is good, but element has to pass one more test.
Test2) Test each screw on element to any bare metal part of water heater.
If light does NOT come on with second test, then element is good.
Light ON first test. Light OFF second test. Then element is probably good. But test is not fail-proof without using a meter.

I'm betting the lower element is burned out and you need to replace lower element. And you may need to vacuum out the sediment.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html

Now if lower element is good, then the easiest thing is to do is replace both thermostats. Buy generic thermostats at hardware store for $25. After replacing both thermostats, the water heater will probably work. If there is still a problem, then the lower element was not as good as test showed, and it should be replaced also.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

If you are still having a problem, answer back and we'll give more details.

If I understand correctly, you have an electric water heater.
The water heater is dual element and has 2 access panels on water heater.
You run out of hot water quickly.
And the reset is stuck down.

First of all, if the reset button is tripped, the water heater will produce NO hot water.
The reset, or ECO (electricity cut off), is designed to cut off all power to water heater.
So if you have some hot water, then ECO reset is fine.
The thermostat may be bad, but the ECO is fine

Next in line:
If your upper element is burned out, then the water heater will not make any hot water.
So if you have some hot water, that tells us the upper element is working.

The three remaining suspects are upper thermostat, lower thermostat, lower element

Let's test the lower element.
Turn off the power.
Remove both wires from lower element.
Test across both screws with a continuity tester.


The continuity tester has a battery and when light comes on, it says the circuit is complete.
Test1) Test across both screws on lower element with continuity tester.
If the light comes on then the element is good so far, but element has to pass one more test.
Test2) Test each screw on element to any bare metal part of water heater.
If the light does NOT come on with the second test, then element is good.
Element has to pass both tests. Light ON first test. Light OFF second test. Then element is probably good. This is not a fail-proof test but it is a good indicator.

I'm betting the lower element is burned out and you need to replace lower element. And you may need to vacuum out the sediment.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html

Now if lower element is good, then the easiest thing is to do is replace both thermostats. After replacing both thermostats, the water heater will probably work. If there is still a problem, then the lower element was not as good as the test showed, and it should be replaced also.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

If you are still having a problem, answer back and we'll give you more details.

Hi,

Its likely you will need a new heating element to solve this issue.

Run the diagnostics test when everything is back together, then when its done, feel to see if your element is hot, you may have to run the diagnostics twice if the element isn't hot, if after the second run of the diagnostics your element is still not hot, then its definitely your element.
Hope this helps:

God Bless