I have a stairs with a switch and a bulb on each floor and i need to replace them with a wall pir sensor on each floor i need the wiring diagram

It is best not to speculate about this - you need to refer to the data sheet for the switch. The passive infrared sensor will require a low voltage for operation which it will derive from the mains (probably) but that would usually require a neutral to be present in some form.

A neutral of sorts could be derived from the circuit through the load, but only while it is switched off) or from the earth connection, which is a practice that is frowned upon.

sounds like two way switching , 2 switches wired parrell 1 to 1 2to 2 3 to 3

power 2 and 3 , but seek professional advice if using mains

Several possibilities. First use standard light bulbs until it is working. Some of the PIR have triac outputs which need a minimum amount of current to work. CFL and LED lights can be a problem with electronic switches/dimmers.

The PIR needs electricity to operate. The black and white wire are probably power and return, there is no neutral to connect to the PIR. Unless you can get a different PIR that does not need line power to operate you are out of luck. There may be some that can cycle steal power and would work but I am not familiar with them.

I assume the three way is a three way PIR and the lights that are flickering are electronic such as LED or CFL.

If you talk to one of the people where you bought the switch they may help you free of charge.

Good Luck

Copy following link for simple walk-thru how to wire occupancy switch
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-occupancy-switch.html

This device is made to replace single-pole switch.
Power to fan: note the horsepower range for device: for example if occupancy switch is rated 1/4 Hp, then it will work for ordinary bath fan. If device is rated for 1/3-1/2 Hp then it is rated for whole-house fan.
Each fan motor will have rating plate showing Hp. Check rating labels for each device.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

They all wire the same. The black wire on the PIR connects to the incoming (usually black) hot or switched wire. The red wire on the PIR connects to the light(s), usually a black wire. The white (neutral) wire from the PIR connects to BOTH the incoming white wire and the white wire that goes to the light(s).

This should replace any existing single pole (one location) switch. You have two wires on the pir, black and blue and then the ground. The black hooks to the hot or common wire. It may be black, but it will be the hot wire. The blue wire hooks to the wire going to the light. The ground hooks to the green or bare.

There is nothing wrong with the switch or your wiring. The Leviton R01-PR180-1LI is not designed to work with flourescent lights. A lot of electronic controls will bleed through a small voltage when in the "OFF" state. It's just enough voltage to make the ballast in the flourescent light try to fire but not enough to let it fire the way it is supposed too.

What you need is a motion switch that is rated for flourescent lights, such as this :-( :
http://www.smarthome.com/2520W/Leviton-ODS10-IDW-Commercial-Grade-Wall-Mounted-Occupancy-Sensor-White/p.aspx

This wires like a 4 way switch, then you can install multiple extra switches of double wire, double throw (4 way) on multiple floors.

Sorry, but you need one extra wire between the switches to wire "the opposite configuration" that you want :-(
That means going into the attic and pulling another cable :-( I can walk you through it if you are willing to do all that work.
The only other solution would be to purchase the commercial version of that motion switch, which would also require a sensor at _each_ switch location :-(