TORK  Variable Cycling Timer 8601 Logo
Posted on Oct 30, 2010
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How to wire a 1104 series time switch - TORK Variable Cycling Timer 8601

2 Answers

Gene Haynes

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  • TORK Master 5,391 Answers
  • Posted on May 31, 2012
Gene Haynes
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Joined: May 07, 2012
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Open following link for Tork timer manuals and wiring diagrams
http://waterheatertimer.org/Tork-timers-and-manuals.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

A

Anonymous

how to wire a 1104 series time switch - 8896f6e.jpgTork 1100 series

Tork 1103 can control 120V or 240V Loads (fan light motor)
It can control 1 or 2 different Loads
Tork 1103 has 5 screw terminals
L 1 Unmarked X 2

The Tork 1103 has a 120V clock motor that consumes 3 Watts and costs $3.50 per year to operate.
1) You have to have a white Neutral wire from breaker box connected to Unmarked terminal no matter if you are controlling 120V or 240V Load
2) You have to have a black Hot wire from breaker connected to terminal L no matter what load

If you have 1 Load 120V:
Terminal L black hot from breaker
Terminal 1 no wire
Unmarked terminal white neutral from breaker
Terminal X black wire going to Load
Terminal 2 no wire
White wire going to Load connects to Unmarked terminal
So 2 white wires are on terminal 2

If you have 2 Loads 120V (Load1 Load2)
Terminal L black hot from breaker
Terminal 1 jumper your black hot from Terminal 1
Unmarked terminal white neutral from breaker
Terminal X black wire going to Load1
White wire going to Load1 connects to Unmarked terminal
Terminal 2 black wire going to Load2
White wire from Load2 connects to Unmarked terminal
So 3 white wires are on terminal 2

If you have 2 Loads 240V
Terminal L black hot from breaker
Terminal 1 jumper your black hot from Terminal 1
Unmarked terminal white neutral from breaker (no other wires connect to this terminal)
Terminal X black wire going to Load1
White wire going to Load1 connects back to 240V breaker
Terminal 2 black wire going to Load2
White wire from Load2 connects back to 240V breaker



If you have more questions, add a comment and I will help

  • 2 more comments 
  • Anonymous Oct 31, 2010

    The asker wanted information on the 1104 timer. My old eyes got crossed and I saw 1103 timer. Let me give correct information. The 1104 timer is a 240V timer with 240V clock motor. The T1104 comes with 4 screws or 5 screws. The 4-screw 1104 can control 1 Load. The 5-screw 1104 can control 2 loads. For the 1 Load timer, Hots from breaker connect to L and 1 and hots to Load connect to X and 2. For the 2 Load timer, Hots from breaker connect to L and 1 and hot to load1 connects to X. Hot to load2 connects to 2. The Hot from load back to breaker connects to Unmarked terminal.

  • Anonymous Jul 05, 2013

    Do all common/neutral wires hook together

  • Gene Haynes Jul 07, 2013

    Yes, On the 120volt timer. If timer is 240V then there is no neutral wire:http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-m...

  • Gene Haynes Jul 07, 2013

    http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Insid...

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1answer

How do I wire GE# 15351 24hr mechanical timer switch for 110 volt outdoor landscape lights

15351 is 240 Volt timer... requires 240 Volt to run clock motor.
You need a neutral wire to connect 120 Volt lights.

15351 has same wiring as Tork 1104
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Tork-1104-wired-to-control-120.jpg

http://waterheatertimer.org/Basic-house-wiring.html#basic-wire

Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

0helpful
1answer

How to wire up a tork time clock 1104. 277v. Where does neutral go

277Volts with 1 Hot and 1 Neutral.
Tork 1104 #201 clock motor rated for 208-277Volt
http://waterheatertimer.org/Tork-timers-and-manuals.html#1104

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

0helpful
1answer

I have TORK 1104 , I need control 2- louds (same face) I understood L- hot 1 from breaker, 1- hot 2 from breaker, X- com to loud 1, 2- is com to loud 2. BUD WHERE MUST BE CONNECTED NEUTRAL???

Tork 1104 is 240Volt timer.
Same timer is repackaged and sold as GE 15307
See wiring diagram for single load 240Volt:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/GE-15307-wiring-250.jpg

On the 1104, there is not a separate terminal for Neutral wire.
240Volt circuit does not require neutral wire to complete circuit, so 240Volt timer does not have terminal for neutral.

If you want to control two 240volt loads, then this is not the best timer.
I recommend GE 15207 from Home Depot or Heavy-duty Intermatic GM40 available on-line.

If you want to control two 120Volt loads using Tork 1104, then connect 240Volt lines to to terminals L and 1 as shown in diagram above.
Bring your neutral wire into the box, but do not connect neutral to any terminal.
Each 120Volt load has black and white wires. The whites are for neutral so tie them into the neutral wire using wire nut. Connect black wires to terminals X and 2. If you want both 120Volt loads on same phase, then connect both black wires to terminal X.

Resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-timers-and-manuals.html#15306
http://waterheatertimer.org/Tork-timers-and-manuals.html#1101
0helpful
1answer

I noticed the Tork 1104 timer box was not working. It does not make a sound. And the clock does not move. I measured the incoming and outgoing wires with a multimeter and both measure at 240V. I'm...

13 years is good run for clock motor. Timer will last longer than clock motor.
Open following link to identify timer
http://waterheatertimer.org/Tork-timers-and-manuals.html#1101
Tork 1104 has 240Volt clock motor

Frontier lighting sells the >> 120V Tork motor: List price 40.33/ your price 45.49
So 120Volt replacement motor costs as much as new replacement timer
http://www.frontierlighting.com/product.jsp?part=10431&process=search&show=&&gdftrk=gdfV22514_a_7c834_a_7c3267_a_7c10431

Intermatic replacement is240 volt T104 timer for $49.62 with 'free' shipping:
Also Intermatic trippers and clock motors are cheap and easily available
http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-T104-208-277-Volt-Mechanical-Switch/dp/B000BQOX88
Crossover wiring from 1104 to T104.
Tork L goes to Intermatic 1
Tork 1 goes to Intermatic 3
Tork x goes to Intermatic 2
Tork 2 goes to Intermatic 4
Intermatic A is not used unless you have neutral wire or 277V
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html

GE sells the same 240Volt Tork timer under GE model 15307 in indoor-outdoor enclosure available at Home Depot for $59.00. Year 2011, GE does not pay US income tax, but takes US profits and pays tax in foreign nations. No replacement clock motor is available, but crossover wiring is same.
http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-timers-and-manuals.html#15306

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0helpful
1answer

Tork 1104 is wired 120 vac. hot wire connected to L with jumper wire to 1.hot wire for outdoor lights connected to X. nuetral wires are wire nutted together. not connected to timer. clock not working....

The clock isn't working because the Tork 1104 clock motor requires 240 volts. Jumping the 120 volts over from terminal L to terminal 1 doesn't make it 240 volts. You need another 120 volt leg (180 degrees out of phase) to do that. The Tork 1103 timer is what you need, or change the 1104 clock motor to a 120 volt.
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2answers

On my 97 the abs ring on the cv axle is almost gone!! made a turn today and the wheel almost locked up..any help??

I would have the cv axle changed along with any integral parts such as the abs ring.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the wheel cover/hub cover from the wheel and tire assembly, then loosen the lug nuts. Fig. 1: After removing the wheel/hub cover, loosen the lug nuts 86877115.gif

  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle, then remove the wheel and tire assembly. Insert a steel rod in the rotor to prevent it from turning, then remove the hub nut and washer. Discard the old hub nut. Fig. 2: Before removing the hub nut and washer, insert a steel rod in the rotor to prevent it from turning 86877116.gif
    Fig. 3: Remove the hub nut and washer, then discard the nut, and replace with a new one during installation 86877117.gif

  4. Remove the nut from the ball joint to steering knuckle attaching bolts.
  5. Drive the bolt out of the steering knuckle using a punch and hammer. Discard this bolt and nut after removal. Fig. 4: Drive the bolt out of the front wheel knuckle using a punch and hammer, then discard the nut and bolt and replace with new ones during installation 86877118.gif

  6. If equipped with anti-lock brakes, remove the anti-lock brake sensor and position it aside. If equipped with air suspension, remove the height sensor bracket retaining bolt and wire sensor bracket to inner fender. Position the sensor link aside. Fig. 5: If so equipped, remove the anti-lock brake sensor and position it aside 86877119.gif

  7. Separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle using a suitable prybar. Position the end of the prybar outside of the bushing pocket to avoid damage to the bushing. Use care to prevent damage to the ball joint boot. Remove the stabilizer bar link at the stabilizer bar. Fig. 6: When separating the ball joint from the steering knuckle, be careful not to damage to ball joint boot 86877120.gif
    1. Slide the link shaft out of the transaxle. Support the end of the shaft by suspending it from a convenient underbody component with a piece of wire. Do not allow the shaft to hang unsupported, damage to the outboard CV-joint may occur.
    2. Separate the outboard CV-joint from the hub using front hub remover tool T81P-1104-C or equivalent and metric adapter tools T83P-1104-BH, T86P-1104-Al and T81P-1104-A or equivalent. NOTE: Never use a hammer to separate the outboard CV-joint stub shaft from the hub. Damage to the CV-joint threads and internal components may result. The halfshaft assembly is removed as a complete unit.
    3. Install the CV-joint puller tool T86P-3514-A1 or equivalent, between CV-joint and transaxle case. Turn the steering hub and/or wire strut assembly aside.
    4. Screw extension tool T86P-3514-A2 or equivalent, into the CV-joint puller and hand tighten. Screw an impact slide hammer onto the extension and remove the CV-joint.
    5. Support the end of the shaft by suspending it from a convenient underbody component with a piece of wire. Do not allow the shaft to hang unsupported, damage to the outboard CV-joint may occur.
    6. Separate the outboard CV-joint from the hub using front hub remover tool T81P-1104-C or equivalent and metric adapter tools T83P-1104-BH, T86P-1104-Al and T81P-1104-A or equivalent.
    7. Remove the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle. Fig. 7: These tools are necessary for halfshaft removal 86877121.gif
      Fig. 8: Installing the specified tools to remove the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle 86877122.gif
      Fig. 9: Support the end of the shaft by suspending it from a convenient underbody component with a piece of wire. Do not allow the shaft to hang unsupported, since damage to the outboard CV-joint may occur 86877123.gif
      Fig. 10: Separate the outboard CV-joint from the hub using front hub remover tool T81P-1104-C or equivalent, and metric adapter tools T83P-1104-BH, T86P-1104-Al and T81P-1104-A or equivalent, then remove the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle 86877124.gif
      Fig. 11: Exploded view of the halfshaft assemblies and related components - automatic transaxle 86877125.gif
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0helpful
1answer

I want to install switches in a bathroom. I want switches for the fan, ceiling light and mirror light in series

If you want to have the switches wired in series, you will have to run wires to and from the switches to every device and have to have multiple things on to turn on the devices. It is not practical to wire in series. Say the ceiling light is the first switch in the series and the vanity is the third. You have to turn on the ceiling light and the fan just to turn on the vanity. It does not make sense. It is far more practical to wire the switches in parallel with each switch and device having their own switch leg. You can turn anything on and off independent of the others AND save a substantial amount of wire opposed to series, wich would require your wiring to go to and from the switches three times (SIX runs!).
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