Get signal from tv that lamp is not working, been having an intermittent problem with it. What Ive done in the past is pull lamp and reset and it works, this time it doesnt want to come back up. The lamp is good, its the 3rd lamp replacement and the light engine has been replaced as well, it was one that was replaced per the manufacturer recall or problems with the engine. When I pull lamp assembly out and reset you can hear it clicking to try to come on but after the 8th attempt it goes to red light. Left un plugged to see if when I get home will try again.

you seem to have done all the correct things, have you hard reset the box, i.e pull the power lead when box is turned on ? if this doesn't work then i would return the box as must have warranty as 6 months old, if you can borrow another box any make will do and see if that will tune in then you know if it's your box or the dish

I will try a new main board first.

DTC P1574 Stoplamp Switch Circuit
The cruise release switch is a normally closed switch. The stop lamp switch signal circuit is a normally open switch. When the brake pedal is released, the engine control module (ECM) detects a high voltage signal on the torque converter clutch (TCC) brake switch/cruise control release signal circuit and a low signal voltage signal on the stop lamp switch signal circuit.

Diagnostic Aids
In order to avoid a misdiagnosis, perform the following:
• Inspect for proper operation of the stop lamps. Refer to Exterior Lighting Systems Description and Operation .
• Inspect for proper adjustment of the stop lamps. Refer to Stop Lamp Switch Adjustment .
• For an intermittent condition, refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections .

2
Do the stop lamps work properly?
YES - Go to Step 3
NO - Go to Stop Lamps Inoperative
3
Test the stop lamp switch signal circuit for an open or for a high resistance between the body control module (BCM) and the engine control module (ECM). Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs .
Did you find and correct the condition?
YES - Go to Step 6
NO - Go to Step 4
4
Inspect for poor connections at the harness connector of the ECM. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs .
Did you find and correct the condition?
YES -- Go to Step 6
NO - Go to Step 5
5
Replace the ECM. Refer to Control Module References for replacement, setup, and programming.
Did you complete the replacement?
YES - Go to Step 6
--
6
Use a scan tool in order to clear the DTCs.
Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC.
Does the DTC reset?
Go to Step 2
System OK

I just replaced all the signal lights on my 2005 van. You may have a cracked and or loose filiments that may be making intermittent conact in your bulbs. I would recommend replacing both your front and rear signal lights to start with and see if that clears up your problem. I aleady have a full procedure written up and will past it below, please use what you need. Note, our vehicles need to have the headlights out to reach the front turn signals below them. My proceedure discripbes how... Hope this helps.

Chevy Uplander (2005) Headlight bulb or turn signal replacement:

It is important to ensure all lights are working for the safety of you and others on the road.

Headlight:

In order to gain access to the head light bulbs, the headlight assembly must be removed. There no easy way to gain access to the lamps with the assembly installed. Open hood. Use 10mm wrench to remove faster on top of the light assembly closest to the rubber hood rest. You then need to remove the silver looking pin near the grill. This pin is snapped in place. Rotate counter clockwise and then pull pin straight out. The light assembly will now have to be pulled past the front header panel near the grill. Use care as the light is pulled past the grill panel. When you have this done there is one more fastener holding the light to the vehicle. On the far out side edge of the light near the fender panel, there is a ball socket fastener holding the light to the vehicle internal frame. Pull straight forward to pull the ball pin out of the socket. It will take a lot of force, but be careful as you apply force and pull light out forward. My light took some wiggling up and down, left and right until the ball released. Once the light is out, the lights are accessible. Both the normal and high beam light sockets rotate counter clockwise to remove from the headlight housing. There is a very tight detent in the counter clock rotation which took a fair amount of force. Once it "clicks" past that point during rotation, the light socket was able to be pulled from the light housing. The light bulb pulls straight out of the socket. Please use a clean towel or gloves to protect your fingers. Bulbs can sometimes crack and cut your fingers. Also, when you install the new lamps, use a towel or cloves as not to get oil on the glass which can cause uneven heating of the glass and crack it under use.

With the light assembly out, it is now easy to reach down into the vehicle to change the turn signal. This lamp is colored since the turn signal lens is clear.

Once bulbs are replaced, please test them before reassembly just in case of any issues. The headlight assembly ball socket will snap back into place easy. Once that is in, press the rest of the light back to its normal place. When the holes are lined up, place the silver colored rod back into its slots all the way down the inside of the light assembly. It then can be rotated and locked back into place. Reinstall the 10mm bolt on top of the light assembly near the rubber hood rest. Again check the lights to insure nothing is out of order.

Rear Lights:

To gain access to the bulbs to the real light assemblies, you must remove the light housings. Open up the rear hatch. Use a T30 Torex screwdriver and remove the two screws on the inside of light. Once those are out, the light assembly can be pulled out slightly from the vehicle. On the side of the van, the light assembly is held in place by two snap fasteners. Pull the light towards the rear of the vehicle to disengage the outside edge fasteners. Once done, the light assembly will be loose and the bulb sockets are accessible. They rotate counter clockwise release from the housing. The bulbs themselves pull straight out of the socket. Please use a towel to protect your hands and to make sure no oil gets on the bulb surface. Once done, reinstall the light assembly by first lining up the two plastic fasteners on the outside edge to the vehicle panel and press the light assembly to the vehicle. Reinstall the two screws and test light. Be sure to have someone press the brake for you to ensure your brake light works.

Bulbs:

Front:

Low beam/ high beam lights: (12362LL) Phillips (H11LL)

Front Turn Signal: 4157NAK amber color

Corner marker lamp: 194FH4 clear

Rear:

Brake/turn light: 4157LL (clear lamp)

Lower back up light and top running light: 3057XX (Wagner) (clear lamp)

First- Did you replace just the lamp itself. If you did, you must make sure the lamp is flush into the lamp cage.

Second - Make sure the new one (if you bought it complete with cage) is flush also.
If you didn't have this problem before and have it now then retrace your steps.

I have written a procedure for all the lamps plus a lamp list. Hope this helps you....

Todd

Chevy Uplander (2005) Headlight bulb or turn signal replacement:

It is important to ensure all lights are working for the safety of you and others on the road.

Headlight:

In order to gain access to the head light bulbs, the headlight assembly must be removed. There no easy way to gain access to the lamps with the assembly installed. Open hood. Use 10mm wrench to remove faster on top of the light assembly closest to the rubber hood rest. You then need to remove the silver looking pin near the grill. This pin is snapped in place. Rotate counter clockwise and then pull pin straight out. The light assembly will now have to be pulled past the front header panel near the grill. Use care as the light is pulled past the grill panel. When you have this done there is one more fastener holding the light to the vehicle. On the far out side edge of the light near the fender panel, there is a ball socket fastener holding the light to the vehicle internal frame. Pull straight forward to pull the ball pin out of the socket. It will take a lot of force, but be careful as you apply force and pull light out forward. My light took some wiggling up and down, left and right until the ball released. Once the light is out, the lights are accessible. Both the normal and high beam light sockets rotate counter clockwise to remove from the headlight housing. There is a very tight detent in the counter clock rotation which took a fair amount of force. Once it "clicks" past that point during rotation, the light socket was able to be pulled from the light housing. The light bulb pulls straight out of the socket. Please use a clean towel or gloves to protect your fingers. Bulbs can sometimes crack and cut your fingers. Also, when you install the new lamps, use a towel or cloves as not to get oil on the glass which can cause uneven heating of the glass and crack it under use.

With the light assembly out, it is now easy to reach down into the vehicle to change the turn signal. This lamp is colored since the turn signal lens is clear.

Once bulbs are replaced, please test them before reassembly just in case of any issues. The headlight assembly ball socket will snap back into place easy. Once that is in, press the rest of the light back to its normal place. When the holes are lined up, place the silver colored rod back into its slots all the way down the inside of the light assembly. It then can be rotated and locked back into place. Reinstall the 10mm bolt on top of the light assembly near the rubber hood rest. Again check the lights to insure nothing is out of order.

Rear Lights:

To gain access to the bulbs to the real light assemblies, you must remove the light housings. Open up the rear hatch. Use a T30 Torex screwdriver and remove the two screws on the inside of light. Once those are out, the light assembly can be pulled out slightly from the vehicle. On the side of the van, the light assembly is held in place by two snap fasteners. Pull the light towards the rear of the vehicle to disengage the outside edge fasteners. Once done, the light assembly will be loose and the bulb sockets are accessible. They rotate counter clockwise release from the housing. The bulbs themselves pull straight out of the socket. Please use a towel to protect your hands and to make sure no oil gets on the bulb surface. Once done, reinstall the light assembly by first lining up the two plastic fasteners on the outside edge to the vehicle panel and press the light assembly to the vehicle. Reinstall the two screws and test light. Be sure to have someone press the brake for you to ensure your brake light works.

Bulbs:

Front:

Low beam/ high beam lights: (12362LL) Phillips (H11LL)

Front Turn Signal: 4157NAK amber color

Corner marker lamp: 194FH4 clear

Rear:

Brake/turn light: 4157LL (clear lamp)

Lower back up light and top running light: 3057XX (Wagner) (clear lamp)

Chevy Uplander Headlight bulb or turn signal replacement:

It is important to ensure all lights are working for the safety of you and others on the road.

To gain access to the turn signal, the headlight assembly needs to be moved out of the way so you can reach under to the rear of the turn signal. Below is a cut and past from my how to lights document for this. You can pull from this what you need to remove the headlight assemby. Bulb types are also listed at the end. I hope this helps>>

Headlight:

In order to gain access to the head light bulbs, the headlight assembly must be removed. There is no easy way to gain access to the lamps with the assembly installed. Open hood. Use 10mm wrench to remove faster on top of the light assembly closest to the rubber hood rest. You then need to remove the silver looking pin near the grill. This pin is snapped in place. Rotate counter clockwise (clock wise on drivers side) and then pull pin straight out. The light assembly will now have to be pulled past the front header panel near the grill. Use care as the light is pulled past the grill panel. When you have this done there is one more fastener holding the light to the vehicle. On the far out side edge of the light near the fender panel, there is a ball socket fastener holding the light to the vehicle internal frame. Pull straight forward to pull the ball pin out of the socket. It will take a lot of force, but be careful as you apply force and pull light out forward. My light took some wiggling up and down, left and right until the ball released. Once the light is out, the lights are accessible. Both the normal and high beam light sockets rotate counter clockwise to remove from the headlight housing. There is a very tight detent in the counter clock rotation which took a fare amount of force. Once it "clicks" past that point during rotation, the light socket was able to be pulled from the light housing. The light bulb pulls straight out of the socket. Please use a clean towel or gloves to protect your fingers. Bulbs can sometimes crack and cut your fingers. Also, when you install the new lamps, use a towel or cloves as not to get oil on the glass which can cause uneven heating of the glass and crack it under use.

With the light assembly out, it is now easy to reach down into the vehicle to change the turn signal. This lamp is colored since the turn signal lens is clear.

Once bulbs are replaced, please test them before reassembly just in case of any issues. The headlight assembly ball socket will snap back into place easy. Once that is in, press the rest of the light back to its normal place. When the holes are lined up, please the silver colored rod back into its slots all the way down the inside of the light assembly. It then can be rotated and locked back into place. Reinstall the 10mm bolt on top of the light assembly near the rubber hood rest. Again check the lights to insure nothing is out of order.

Rear Lights:

To gain access to the bulbs to the real light assemblies, you must remove the light housings. Open up the rear hatch. Use a T30 Torex screwdriver and remove the two screws on the inside of light. Once those are out, the light assembly can be pulled out slightly from the vehicle. On the side of the van, the light assembly is held in place by two snap fasteners. Pull the light towards the rear of the vehicle to disengage the outside edge fasteners. Once done, the light assembly will be loose and the bulb sockets are accessible. They rotate counter clockwise release from the housing. The bulbs themselves pull straight out of the socket. Please use a towel to protect your hands and to make sure no oil gets on the bulb surface. Once done, reinstall the light assembly by first lining up the two plastic fasteners on the outside edge to the vehicle panel and press the light assembly to the vehicle. Reinstall the two screws and test light. Be sure to have someone press the brake for you to ensure your brake light works.

Bulbs:

Front:

Low beam/ high beam lights: (12362LL) Phillips (H11LL)

Front Turn Signal: 4157NAK amber color

Corner marker lamp: 194FH4 clear

Rear:

Brake/turn light: 4157LL (clear lamp)

Lower back up light and top running light: 3057XX (Wagner) (clear lamp)

Did your replace lamp come on the screen or did you lose picture? Just because the LED indicator suggest replace lamp it doesn't mean it needs it. If your pix was dull or loss of brightness then replace it, if not then just reset your lamp timer, check your owners manual for instructions.

How much was it moved? It could have jiggled something loose or made an intermittent connection, try removing the bulb/lamp and put it back in to reseat it, it might be detecting a lamp issue due to a bad connection, or a lamp thats starting to fail, if you have a spare lamp you can try replacing it. If thats not it then it may just be something is failing due to age/heat in the tv and moving it caused enough shock to the part to go intermittent. Most commonly when a projection tv does this its a problem with the lamp, or the power supply board.

I had the same problem. The TV would work for about 2 minutes, then lose audio and video for about 45 seconds, then come back on. This was a constant loop. The power LED would stay lit constant though. I considered changing the lamp as other blogs suggested. Then I thought the problem may be simpler. I removed the lamp, and to my surprise, the lamp screen was full of dust. $5 bottle of canned air, cleaned all the dust from the inside of the TV (including the lamp screen), and low and behold the TV worked great. The lamp did have a burned smell to it, but it still worked great. I would suggest trying this first. Save yourself alot of money:)