Question about Leviton COMBINATION SINGLE POLE TOGGLE SWITCH

1 Answer

Using a #5224 Combination two switches to light two different fixtures (an exterior light) and it will only turn off and on by 2nd switch being switched on or off (the interior ceiling light) Hooked each brass contacts with with lines and have only one line left. I switch the from top and bottom on black screw side but still need to have interior light on to light exterior light. Whatsup? Back of switch unit has black screws saying "common" and brass "B1 & A1."

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1 Answer

I think you have your wires connected to wrong screw.

Wiring devices have screws that are color-coded as you noticed.
The Hot wire from breaker connects to dark colored screw(s).
The wires to Load (ceiling light-outdoor light) connect to brass screws.

If you need more help, add a comment at bottom and I will help further

Posted on Oct 26, 2010

  • 1 more comment 
  • jjponcho1492 Dec 11, 2010

    I just connected two separated lamps on top off the switches following your explanation color screw to hot wire and it did not work, but my power went off what kind I do?

  • Anonymous Dec 11, 2010

    You need to test your wires using ordinary tester. Separate wires, turn on power. Do not untwist wires that are twisted together. Test each wire to bare ground wire. Tester lights up on hot wire. Hot wire goes to dark screw. Test some more. Test hot wire to other wires, including white wires that are twisted together .. test hot to all wires except bare ground. Tester lights up on neutral. Connect neutral to silver screw. If you do not have a neutral, then you do not have the wires needed for a receptacle. Assume that you have one wire left, that does not light up when testing, this should be the wire going to load (lights) ... this wire connects to brass screw.

  • Anonymous Feb 03, 2019

    BEWARE that the Leviton box instructions are misleading to a dangerous degree; they use the SAME box instructions for ALL their devices - including switched outlets. A box containing two single-pole switches has NO BUSINESS having instructions saying not to use it to replace switches that use 2 wires, or to wire in a neutral (!!) - because some of their OTHER products are Outlet combination devices. Only if your reading is careful or you are experienced, do you avoid a dangerous mistake. Incredible what Leviton did to save a penny...

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1 Answer

How can I fix the back lights on my 2002 jeep grand cheroke Laredo.


I assume "back lights" refers to the rear lamps and that "light fixture" refers to the entire right rear lamp assembly. There is a combination flasher in the junction block that controls flashing of the turn signals and the hazard function. The multi-function switch (on steering column?)selects left and right turn signals and the hazard operation. If the left side tail/stop lamp and turn lamp are OK, compare the lamp installation on the left rear with the lamp installation on your new right rear lamp assembly. If all checks out, turn on the park lamps and check the BLK/YEL wire for 12 volts to the tail light filament of the combination lamp. Next, turn the ignition switch on but do not start. Set the turn signal switch (MFS) for a right turn. Check the BRN/RED wire for 12 volts to flash the separate turn lamp. Finally, have someone step on the foot brake and check the WHT/TAN wire for 12 volts to the stop light filament of the combination lamp. If any voltage is missing, the trouble may be in the combination switch, the multi-function switch, or due to a missing ground connection (BLK wire) to the right rear lamp assembly.

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How can i operate an exterior sensor light to auto or manual mode from two different location at home? (the antique switches i use are only a two ways switches.)


More information is needed.
You have exterior sensor light.
Does this light turn on using a photo cell or turn on automatically by movement?
What is the manual-auto mode?
Add a comment for possible help.
Open following link for diagram of 3-way switch:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/3-way-circuit-450.jpg

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I think I have a Leviton double pole dimmer switch. It used to operate track lighting along with an on/off light switch in the same room (different entrance). I replaced the track lighting with a fan...


You mention a dimmer and a 2nd on-off switch.
You purchased a 'double pole' switch which I believe is a 3-way switch.

3-way switch has 3 screws (plus ground screw which will not be mentioned further)
3 screws on 3-way switch = one is dark colored, and 2 are brass colored.

You can guess. There are only 3 wires and you can keep trying different combination until both switches work. Do not change wiring on 2nd switch and sooner or later the right combination will appear.

On the other hand, electricians test wires using ordinary tester, before connecting anything.
If you want to test, it takes 3 ez steps.

Here's what I would do.
1) Look at wiring on 2nd switch.
Notice switch has 1 dark screw and 2 brass screws.
If you can identify the two wires on the brass colored screws, these are the 'travelers' and same two wires connect to brass colored screws on new switch. And then last wire connects to dark colored screw.

2) You have noted the wires carefully on dimmer, so remove dimmer, and separate wires for testing.
2nd switch is moved to down position.
We are NOT going to test wires on 2nd switch.
We are just testing wires at old dimmer.
Turn on power.

Power is on.
2nd switch is in down position.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
One and only one wire will light up the tester.
Mark this wire.

3) Change 2nd switch, and move 2nd switch to up position.
Test each wire again to bare ground wire.
Again only one wire will light up tester.
Mark this wire.
If same wire lights up tester each time, then this is the Hot wire and it connects to new switch dark screw. And the other two wires go to brass colored screws.
If a different wire lights up each time, then these two wires are 'travellers' and they connect to each brass colored screw. And the last wire connects to dark colored screw.

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1 Answer

IN THE OLD DOUBLE SWITCH I REPLACED WITH THE 5224, SWITCH 1 WOULD TURN ON LIGHT 1 AND SWITCH 2 WOULD TURN ON LIGHT 2. I WIRED THE 5224 THE SAME WAY AS THE OLD SWITCH. NOW ONE SWITCH ON THE 5224 TURNS BOTH...


The switch is wired backwards. Swap sides with the wires.

If you look closely at the switch you will see that one side has 2 screws that are joined together with a metal tab. _That_ is the side that gets the hot wire, pick a screw, it doesn't matter which one as long as you don't break off that tab.

On the other side of the switch you will see that the 2 screws are _not_ joined together with a metal tab. _Those_ are the screws that connect to each individual switch leg.

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1 Answer

I am replacing a combination 2 switch using a


First, turn off the power to this circuit to avoid getting a shock.

If the two devices that are controlled by the combination switch are lights, you will want to join the two (2) white (neutral) wires together with a wire nut, as these are not connected to the switch.

You also want to connect the bare copper wires (ground) together and connect one of them to the switch's green grounding screw and IF the wall box is metal, you also need to attach the ground wire to the box with a green grounding screw.

Now, you can connect the wires that go to your lights, the red and black wires that are part of the same wire and are routed to the same location thru the wall box. Take either the black or red and connect them to the screws on the side of switch that are not connected together with the small brass strip between them. Put the red on one of these screws and the black on the other.

Now with the black wire that is the hot (Common), this is the one that is bringing power into the wall box, should be connected to the other side of the switch, the one with the two (2) screws that are joined together with the brass strip between them.

This will allow you to turn on and off each of the lights (or a fan, etc) separately with each switch sharing the common power source.

Here's a picture of the switch that shows the side of the switch with the common side and the brass strip that connects the screws together. This is the side where the one black (hot / common) wire that supplies the power gets connected.

http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=8935&section=10070

You can also open up the box the switch came in and you'll find a wiring diagram for the switch that illustrates how to properly wire the switch for your application.

I hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

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This is a catch 22 situation, because if the upper housing in the attic is insulated from the attic heat, the insulation will prevent heat dissipation from the heat generated by the fixture's light bulbs. So, for safety reasons, the upper housing should not be insulated.
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No need to break the tab... that' on the power IN side of the switch..
You only need one power in (in most cases).
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The white wires are your common and are hooked together with the other whites in the box... don't hook them to the switch.
Hope this get's ya all connected... let me know if you need more assistance.
K

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