The washer will not go into High Spin. I had the problem before, when a penny was lodged in one of the agitators. I need to know, how to remove the 2 agitators in the washing tub, to remove any debrei

Hi Kathy.

If the washer does not agitate and spin, then the most common problem is the belt: Washer Drive V-Belt (part 28 in diagram 1)

If you can manually advance to spin but the machine does not agitate, then parts that may need to be replaced are the agitator:
Agitator (part 11 in diag 1) or the agitator drive in the transmission:Agitator Drive (pt.2 diagram 2)

To replace the belt remove the assembly at front top of the washer held by two philips screws and clips. Here description of replacement procedure.

Here Diagram 1

Here Diagram 2

Regards.

Ginko

Hi.

If the washer does not agitate and spin, then the most common problem is the belt: Washer Drive V-Belt (part 28 in diagram 1)

If you can manually advance to spin but the machine does not agitate, then parts that may need to be replaced are the agitator:
Agitator (part 11 in diag 1) or the agitator drive in the transmission:Agitator Drive (pt.2 diagram 2)

To replace the belt remove the assembly at front top of the washer held by two philips screws and clips. Here description of replacement procedure.

Here Diagram 1

Here Diagram 2

Regards.

Ginko

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Then see the following illustrated description:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=136&osCsid=91e06a88de852a10cb5618dcc88ab7e6

Basically, you'll remove the fabric softener dispenser, remove the top agitator (be carefull of the agitator dogs), remove the 1/2" drive bolt and the lower agitator should pull off.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump

removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

See the following Whirlpool Service manuals for top load, direct drive washers. They describe what happens in the transmission when the washer goes into spin mode:


WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

Also see the Whirlpool Parts list for their Commercial washers, although the consumer models use the same transmission.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


Basically whats happening is this.

When the washer goes into spin mode two plastic cams are forced together and raise a gear on the main agitator shaft that is supposed to keep the agitators from spinning. In actuality, the agitator will still spin somewhat due to the oil moving the shaft.

If the cams are worn (not necessarily broken) the gear doesn't lift high enough to completely disengage the agitators (about 1/16"). We had the same problem. Ours was a major gear noise but a clicking could also be a symptom.

A set of Whirlpool Agitate Cams (part number 62580/01) cost about $15.00.

It's a bit messy to fix (16 oz. of oil in the transmission) but very inexpensive.

See the following for how to remove the transmission.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators.

The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. A 1/2" socket extension works well.

You don't have to remove the drum.

You can also see this site for removing the transmission.


ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main

agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15 Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil. (Available at auto parts stores)


Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

I'd also check the Motor Coupler (a $15.00 item that tends to wear) while you have the transmission out.


The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

Obviously the washer should be either just spinning or agitating. The transmission ,or in this style washer it is called the gearcase, is bad and would need to be replaced. The gearcase controls the spin and the agitate in this washer. The part number is 3360629 and retails for $172.77. To replace; Unplug washer, remove the 2 trim pieces on either side of the console, remove the 2 screws under the trim, lift the console and rotate to the back, remove the 2 retainers going from the back into the cabinet, remove the cabinet, remove the drain pump, remove the motor, remove the agitator, remove the gearcase with 3 bolts holding it on. The gearcase will now slide out of the washer. Transfer the clutch and motor mounting plate to the new gearcase and reassemble in the reverse order.
Thank you

Replace the timer.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

it sounds like you have something stuck under the agitator thats causing a rubbing noise when it goes to spin or agitate.maybe a penny or something like that

i would assume that perhaps you did not wind hte belt correctly arround the legs of the pump and therefore are not putting the correct tension on hte pulley(remember to hook spring back up to tension idler?)

It doesn't agitate If your washer doesn't agitate, check these:

Lid switch
Motor coupler
Belts
Clutch
Drive motor
Drive pulleys
Transmission
Agitator
Lid switch If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

Motor coupler Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it.

Belts Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)

Clutch If your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.

Drive motor Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.

Drive pulleys The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.

Transmission The transmission could have either of these problems:

• Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may not agitate properly or at all.



• The transmission may have a worn or broken gear, or some other internal problem.

If you suspect a transmission problem, you may have to call a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.

Agitator The inside of the agitator--where the transmission shaft attaches--can become worn, and strip out the spline that allows the agitator to properly grip the shaft. Then the transmission shaft rotates back and forth as it should, but the agitator doesn't move properly. If this happens, you may need to replace the agitator and/or the transmission spline.

remove 2 rubber plugs on each side of lid remove the screws underneath lift top up remove the plactic ring around tub top by pulling up on clips along top edge remove the spring on left attached to ring lift ring off remove agitator again lift inner tub up and out ..when reinstalling inner tub be sure it drops completely in so the center gear drops in place