Kenmore 665.69642992. Power went out one day during a storm. Now the hool light switch will turn the fan on and off, just like the fan switch. No light control any more??

This is normal. Kenmore microwaves will stay running with fan and light on for a short time after food is cooked. The reason is to air out the microwave after cooking. Things like pop corn, Bacon etc. have strong smells after cooking. The ventilation helps to remove odors.

You should have either a shorted out door switch or a shorted out light switch on the control panel.
Removing either one and unplugging it should show you which one is the problem.
God bless your efforts.

The low voltage brownout let the oven draw too much current, and likely an internal fuse failed. Typically after removing a dozen Philips screws you can take off the cover and locate the fuse, which you can match and replace. [If it still has "power" (like the lights come on) but has stopped heating, then it could be any number of other issues (main capacitor fail, etc)] I've changed a fuse or two in my day, and years ago a failed capacitor, with success.

Did you recently have a lightining storm? Or a power surge or outgage? The control module could be defective.

Good luck

it can be saved but get a quote from the shop first before proceeding and always evaluate it against the cost of a new one,
it could be the power supply has shorted but check it out.

It may just be a bad door switch. See this file.

You can enter your full model number at the Sears parts site to find helpful exploded view diagrams.

A full Sears/Kenmore model number has 3 digits, a dot, then 8 more digits, such as ###.########.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

You might try pulling the plug on the unit and leaving it overnight. The electronics may have locked up due to irregular voltage during the failure. There may also be a GFI (ground fault interrupter) on that circuit that has tripped for the same reason. Check the kitchen outlets for a tripped GFI.

if anything like my own it is the led blub thats blowen - major hasel to change out - get some one who knows these cookers/ovens...

Hi

When the microwave sounds okay, but there's no heat, one of the internal door switches, the high voltage circuitry, or the circuit board may have a problem. As there was power loss due to storm so I believe it could either be the the high voltage circuitry, or the circuit board . To resolve this problem, you need the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Please do rate the solution as FixYa and revert for further assitance.

Thanks
Rylee

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

It may be the fuse, which is usually located on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

You can probably find exploded views and order parts by entering your model number here at the Sears parts site.

We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.