Unit is a model LX30. Pump works when turned on, unit does not drain or let water in. in controller board area the left hand fuse { 3A} blows when turned on the pump works but does not do antthing else. A servive wrench comesup and initially it starts with an H on the screen. I talked with a Hobart tech. I unhooked all of the components and the left fuse still blew. He suggested to replace the relay board. I ordered the board and replaced it. It still blew the fuse. I ordered the main board after talking with the tech again and with the same results and $600 worth of boards I'm back to square 1. One hint in the back of my mind is the relay board was shelf worn and had been in and out of the package a number of times.
Im curious what the fix for this was because I have a very similar situation and have already replaced both boards and the fuse still blows after I start the dishwasher thanks.Im curious what the fix for this was because I have a very similar situation and have already replaced both boards and the fuse still blows after I start the dishwasher thanks.
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I can't imagine a bad relay board would blow a fuse. The relay board would need to make a bad connection to ground to blow a fuse -- I don't see it.
If you could supply me with the ML#, I'll take a look at the wiring diagram and give you an educated answer.
Not that I recall clearly which fuse is for the drain solenoid, but the two sound related. If a drain valve is obstructed by debris, it will heat up the coil and short it out. I don't know the spec'd ohms, but I would suspect at least 50. I'd check it.
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Clogged drain line: The drain line may be clogged with food debris or other debris, causing the water to back up in the machine.
Blocked sump: The sump, which is where the water drains into, may be blocked with food debris or other debris, causing the water to back up in the machine.
Faulty fill valve: The fill valve may be faulty, causing the water to fill beyond the normal level.
Leaking pump or hoses: The pump or hoses may be leaking, causing water to collect under the machine.
Broken float switch: The float switch, which is responsible for controlling the water level, may be broken, causing the water level to rise uncontrollably.
It is recommended to have a certified Hobart technician or a professional commercial dishwasher repair service diagnose and repair the issue
This is a bad sump temperature probe. The unit will function, but will not heat nor display the wash water temperature.
This is a very easy fix. Order Hobart part number 328994 from your nearest Hobart parts dept.
Turn off and drain the unit. Kill the power to the unit at the circuit breaker. Remove the lower front cover. Locate the screw-in temperature probe at the front of the sump. Unplug the sensor from the wiring harness, remove with a 7/16" open end wrench. Screw in the new probe, using teflon tape of the threads, snuggly. It does not need to be super tight. Plug it into the harness, reinstall the front cover, turn the breaker back on, and start up the unit.
TURN THE BREAKER OFF AS EVEN WITH THE UNIT "OFF" THERE WILL BE 120 VOLTS PRESENT AT THE SUMP HEATER (yellow wires) DUE TO ONLY ONE LEG OF POWER BEING SWITCHED OFF!
I'm not a Hobart technician, but here what I founded in my manual for the LX30 error message:
LX18 / LX30 display shows E0, E2, E3 or E4
1. Low water pressure - check for clogged hose strainer; check that site water pressure meets minimum flow pressures.
2. Make sure probes are clean
3. No water pressure - main water supply valves may not be working
4. Drain valve open - turn machine OFF to drain machine, then ON. Repeat twice (this assists in clearing any drain valve obstructions). Wait for machine to reach READY mode and press WASH. Slowly open door several seconds later and note water level. Close door; 30 seconds later, open door slowly and check that water level is the same as it was. If not, repeat the OFF-ON procedure. If problem persists, call your local Hobart Service Office.
Hopefully you took the suggestion to run the correct 50 amp 208-240 service to the unit.
Converting the unit to an LX30C has a couple of pitfalls. The LX30C is connected directly to the incoming water supply, which should run 120-140 degrees. By reprogramming the unit as an LX30C, the booster would be disabled, which would mean the incoming water would flow through the de-energized booster and be cooling off while it sits in there between cycles and when the unit is shut down.
The incoming fill plumbing (5/8" heater hose) would have to reconnected from the fill solenoid valve directly to the vacuum breaker on the rear of the unit to bypass the booster heater.
On the 208-240 volt LX18/30/40's, the pump motor, booster heater, and sump heater run on 208-240. To convert it to 120 volts you would have to replace the sump heater and reconfigure the motor wiring in the motor junction box.
By the time this is all done, you've downgraded a great machine, confused the next service guy, and have to deal with nasty chlorine and all of it's headaches.
The rinse water in a LX30 is driven by water pressure. A solenoid valve, bottom front - gold body, opens up and allows the water to flow.
If you are referring to the rinse agent pump, there must be NO leaks in the tubing or the hose that runs through the pump. And if the unit has lost its prime, using your hand to "seal" it, and forcing water from the faucet into the line can prime it.
The machine is seldom the cause of "film". Make sure the unit is draining proper and that the fresh water supply is supplying good pressure.
Usually film is caused by using residential soap in a commercial unit. The commercial unit cycle is too short for residential soaps to dissolve and work properly. So soap ends up in your rinse water.
Is the circuit breaker on?Open the door and look on the right and left side at the top.you will see 2 screws,remove them and slide the drawer out.you will see 2 boards the one on the left has 2 fuses,make sure their good.let me know.
Im curious what the fix for this was because I have a very similar situation and have already replaced both boards and the fuse still blows after I start the dishwasher thanks.
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