Broken led brackets in the base section, severed wires from monitor to base. Broken keyboard frame and keyboard. Cooling fan (thermal) damaged and heating up. Framework around the dvd enclosure is warped and preventing the cd/dvd tray to open. Monitor display not working due to the severed wires, but was able to connect to external monitor. Computer is working great - except for the above problems. Am able to fix myself - just need guidance on the parts needed or not needed

This happened to my goose a while back. I had to take it in because the break was at the frame, and the derailleur was torn out of the frame (bad jump, mistakes were made....) The answer was to either straighten the damaged section, redrill the mount and use a larger bracket/screw on a new derailleur; or second cut and weld. Aluminum welds are expensive, so we went with the first fix, and remounted a new derailleur with larger mounting hardware.

maybe it could be a frayed/broken wire leading to the visual/sound parts. if not then bring it to tech support and have them look at it

You probably have a loose or broken wire to the fan relay. Check the wires on the thermostat first. Pull up on the bottom of the thermostat to remove it from the wall plate. You should see several screw terminals and the conductor wires that should be connected to them when you look at the wall plate. Check if any of the wires are disconnected or broken. If a wire is broken, strip a portion of the unbroken section of the wire and secure it to the appropriate screw. (The fan relay terminal is G for most setups.) If none of the wires are loose or broken, then you have to check for damage to the wires between your heating system and the thermostat or at the heating system. It could be a bad wire going to the jumper on control board or damage to the board itself.

I hope this helps. If the problem is not at the thermostat, you may need to have a professional diagnose and fix the problem. However, if you post additional comments about your heating system, Fixya experts may be able to help you diagnose the problem.
Cindy Wells
(we had the broken wires at the thermostat keeping the fan from working in the past. It's an easy fix if you are willing to handle small wires carefully.)

The cooling fan in your laptop helps to keep your CPU (Central Processing Unit), or processor from overheating. Your cooling fan will collect a lot of dust and debris which can possible cause a short in the cooling fan. Routine fan cleaning is essential to the life of your laptop. If your CPU overheats it can go bad and/or cause damage to other important components inside your laptop. The hardest part about cleaning a cooling fan is gaining access. This requires some disassembly of your laptop.

Turn off your Dell laptop, disconnect the power cable, remove the battery pack and disconnect any other cables or external devices. Attach an Antistatic wrist wrap to your wrist and attach the wire clip to the laptop frame. This will help prevent against shock from static electricity. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry up on the keyboard bezel. The keyboard bezel is a small plastic strip located between the laptop's keyboard and LCD display. Remove it completely from the laptop, and set it to the side. Remove the now-exposed two to four Phillips-head screws (depending on the laptop model), and then lift up on the keyboard and place it face-down over the track pad and palm rest. Disconnect the keyboard's ribbon connector from the laptop's motherboard. Lift the keyboard out of the laptop base and set it to the side. This will expose the Dell laptop's cooling fan. Remove the single Phillips-head screw attaching the fan to the motherboard. Lift the fan out of the laptop base; you're now ready to clean.
check you CPU make sure its securely seated and has thermal grease http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Thermal-Compound-Roundup-February-2012/1490 Capacitors look like small metallic canisters and they are found in many different computer components including computer monitors, computer motherboards, video cards, power supplies and a variety of other consumer products. A bad capacitor can cause a variety of computer problems, but if you can identify the faulty capacitor you may be able to replace it and save your computer.

Capacitor
Capacitors, sometimes also called condensers, are used to store energy in an electric field. In the context of computing, capacitors are used to block the direct current being circulated around the motherboard. A typical capacitor should last up to 15 years, but some computer manufacturers use substandard capacitors resulting in shorter lifetimes. Computer Problems b> When a capacitor has gone bad on a computer you may experience a large range of problems. The computer may have trouble booting up, or it may shut down without notice after running for only a short period of time. The most common problems associated with faulty capacitors are that they cause unexpected computer crashes and general reliability issues ranging from read/write issues to distorted screen images. b> Identifying a Bad Capacitor b> To identify a bad capacitor you will need to open your computer case and locate the capacitors on your motherboard. A bad capacitor may exhibit swelling at the top or the base of the capacitor or it may sit at an awkward angle with the motherboard, so compare the various capacitors in your computer in terms of and placement. Additionally, a bad capacitor may have a funny smell or it may have a brownish residue leaking from the top or the base. b> Prevention b> Manufacturers claim that capacitors may go bad because a computer is not receiving enough power from a power supply, because of an overclocked processor or because a computer is operating in an environment with too much heat or humidity. However, some capacitors prematurely fail due to faulty work on the part of the manufacturer. If you have a bad capacitor be sure to do research as to the lifespan of other products made by your manufacturer. Identifying bad capacitors http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngA4k32jLGc Capacitor replacement http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0Pn2tEjY04 How to check a capacitor http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U4tnHA0phcc Replacing a leaking capacitor http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0Pn2tEjY04 Could be a problem with the Hard Drive or the Hard drives PCB http://www.onepcbsolution.com/ Hope this helps. Hope this helps.

There are several things to look for here.

• The CPU Heat sink (the big metal block with a fan) may not be making good contact with the CPU surface area.
• Thermal compound may have not been applied between the CPU surface area and heat sink
• The heat sink and fan are not sufficient enough to cool your CPU
• Dust buildup is not allowing proper circulation of cooling air

If this system is not a name brand and covered by warranty then I would remove the heat sink (carefully) and verify that the mounting bracket is not broken or loose. I would check that ample thermal compound is applied, and if not use rubbing alcohol to remove all compound from the heat sink and CPU and purchase a tube of compound to apply yourself. I would also thoroughly clean the heat sink with compressed air.
If the heat issue continues then you will want to consider upgrading to a more powerful cooling solution.
The CPU fan should run constantly but in some systems will run between 50% and 100% speeds assuming a variable temperature control is applied to the system via motherboard or third party installation.

i would check into a new cooling fan blade, it is probably warped or out of balance causing the bracket to snap.

Section 04-01: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Front 1996 Windstar Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Stabilizer Bar Removal

1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Section 00-02 .
   

1. Support vehicle with hoist or safety stands behind front sub-frame (5C145).
   

1. CAUTION: To avoid damage to the 6 mm drive hole in the front stabilizer bar link ball stud, do not use an Allen wrench to break loose or tighten or final tighten the front stabilizer bar link-to-shock absorber nut.
   Using care not to damage the front stabilizer bar link ball stud seal, remove the RH and LH front stabilizer bar link-to-front shock absorber nut.
   
   
   
   
   

1. Using care not to damage the front stabilizer ball link stud seal, remove the RH and LH front stabilizer bar link-to-front stabilizer bar nut.
   

1. CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage the ball joint boot.
   With another set of support safety stands under front sub-frame, remove two rear sub-frame retaining bolts. Lower rear of the front sub-frame to obtain access to stabilizer bar brackets (5486).
   

1. Remove front stabilizer bar bracket bolts, stabilizer bar brackets, stabilizer bar bracket insulators and front stabilizer bar (5482) as required.
   

Installation

1. Clean front stabilizer bar to remove dirt and contamination in area of stabilizer bar bracket insulator installation position.
   

1. Lubricate inside diameter of new stabilizer bar bracket insulator with Rubber Suspension Insulator Lube E25Y-19553-A meeting Ford specification ESF-M99B112-A or equivalent. Do not use any mineral or petroleum based lubricants as they will deteriorate the rubber stabilizer bar bracket insulators.
   

1. Install new stabilizer bar bracket insulators onto front stabilizer bar and position them in approximate location.
   

1. Install stabilizer bar bracket on stabilizer bar bracket insulators and install new bolts. Tighten to 55-63 Nm (40-46 lb-ft).
   

1. Raise front sub-frame and install new front sub-frame-to-body retaining bolts. Tighten to 115-132 Nm (85-97 lb-ft).
   

1. Install front stabilizer bar link (5K483) to front shock absorber. Use care not to damage link ball joint boot seal.
   

1. CAUTION: To avoid damage to the 6 mm drive hole in the front stabilizer bar link ball stud, do not use an Allen wrench to break loose or tighten or final tighten the front stabilizer bar link-to-shock absorber nut.
   Install a new front stabilizer bar link-to-shock absorber nut. Tighten to 90-100 Nm (66-74 lb-ft).
   
   

I have a Casio CT-648, which looks like a smaller version of yours. I had the same problem, and got brave and opened it up. I took off the back, which takes several screws. Once it was opened up, I saw the keyboard was fastened to the frame in sections of keys. I unscrewed the section with the raised key (I believe it was 5 screws), slid the key section toward the front of the keyboard, and was able to get the slides to re-engage with the tab below it. I now have a smooth keyboard.

The 4 holes on the back are standard and you may find on the web, a monitor mount. You could also search ebay for the exact same monitor with a broken screen and get it very cheap and use the base off it.