Describe your Tassimo 3170 repair Problem: Tassimo has no lights and most likely the problem is with the thermal cutouts. One cutout has black wires, the other white. When I check across each cutout with a VOM (wires removed) the resistance measures open circuit. Does this mean both cutouts are bad or the problem lies elsewhere?

You will need a clamp on amp meter to check current draw. the thermal cutout tripped because the temp exceeded the safety limit.

Most common failure mode designed into most Mr. Coffees is a "stuck" disc thermostat, located on the boiler tube underneath. When the thermostat sticks in the closed position, it overheats the boiler once the water is evaporated and then the thermal cutouts blow, and you get exactly what you describe. Get the bottom off (this may requires a "security" Torx-20 bit on a couple of the screws) and take an ohmmeter and check the element...it most likely is good. Then, go across the two thermal cutouts under the steel plate; they should read zero. If not, the above scenario has played out and you'll need to change out both thermal cutouts and the disc thermostat (also known for years as a "Klixon"). I found that a White-Rodgers 230F/30F differential normally closed unit works and fits perfectly, and is designed to last 100,000 operations under load. You can get these from Mouser. Order that, and two 214C (approximately; anywhere near that temp will do...get them at Radio Trash) thermal fuses, get out the soldering iron and use proper techniques, and your Mr. Coffee will most likely last another 10 years, if not more. I've never seen a bunred out element on these. It's always the cheap Chinese-made thermostat that kills them off.

Usually, there are 2 or 3 thremal cutouts in these machines (Side by side).

They should be changed together. I'm not sure if THT1001 is a hotpoint part number.

If you're in the UK, then go look at:
http://www.tdspares.co.uk/products.asp?cat=68 where you will get the pair for £8.95

My searches get drowned by UK entries because that's where I am!) If you're in the US, just google "hotpoint tumble thermal cutout" and you'll find loads (Note that proces vary hugely from $10 a pair to about $25!)

Yeah sounds like a Thermal cutout to me ... do you have 120V on both sides??

The problem is with the Thermal Cutout. The contact in the thermal cut out is worn out/burned due to excessive heat. Replace it.

It sounds like the thermal cutout which is located on the top of the oven. You must first unplug the oven, then take off the housing (which means taking out all the screws around the perimeter). The thermal cutout has two wires going to it, and is located on the top middle of the oven. Take the two leads (wires) off, and get an ohm meter. You want to see if there is continuity, or not. If there is? That's great! If not (an open circuit), then your cutout is bad. You can order this through the manufacturer. Good Luck, and I hope this works for you. Jim

There is a thermal fuse in this heater. A 133 deg. C fuse along with a bimetalic thermal cutout is attached to the top of the ceramic heater housing. This fuse is probably open, and is the most likely cause of your problem. This fuse is riveted in place, and is not easy to change.
Opening the heater case requires a special anti-tamper screwdriver. B&D don't want you inside this unit.

Thermal cutouts don't mind which way round you connect them, so provided you're confident that both of the wires you've got were originally connected to the old cutout, feel free to stick them onto the new one whichever way round looks neatest.

A.

On this model, you can find the wiring diagram and exploded views at this site http://www3.sears.com (the 3 is correct)

In fact, the diagram you need most is here:
http://www3.sears.com/Paul/Leadimage.asp?productTypeID=0123245&brandID=1428&modelDesc=FRIGIDAIRE/MICROWAVE&modelNumber=CFMV145BC1&documentID=R0212007&documentTypeID=PLDM&documentClassCode=PV&titleType=WIRING%20SCHEMATIC&titleID=00006&

The hood TCO (normally open) has grey and red wires on it going to pins 7 & 5 of connector CO 02 on the circuit board.

The other TCOs should read normally closed.

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