SDM-S73, no power light, appears dead

DTC B0058 Right Front/Passenger Pretensioner Deployment Loop Open.
The passenger seat belt pretensioner deployment loop consists of a seat belt pretensioner-RF and the seat belt pretensioner-RF high and low circuits. A shorting bar used within the seat belt pretensioner connector shorts together both the seat belt pretensioner high and low circuits when the connector is disconnected. This will help to prevent unwanted deployment of the pretensioner during servicing. During a frontal crash of sufficient force the inflatable restraint sensing and diagnostic module (SDM) will allow current to flow through the deployment loop in order to deploy the seat belt pretensioner. The SDM performs continuous diagnostic tests on the deployment loops to check for proper circuit continuity and for shorts to ground or voltage. If a malfunction is detected, a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) will be stored in memory.
DTC B0084 Left Front/Driver Seat Position Sensor Circuit
The inflatable restraint seat position sensor (SPS) is used to determine the proximity of a front driver or passenger seat position with respect to the frontal air bag. The SPS interfaces with the sensing and diagnostic module (SDM). The state of the SPS allows the SDM to disable stage 2 of the frontal air bag for a front seat that is forward of a forward/rearward point in seat track travel. The SPS is a hall effect sensor that is mounted on the inside seat track of both the driver and passenger seats. The seat track includes a metal bracket that shunts the SPS magnetic circuit creating 2 states of seat position. The shunted state represents a rearward seat position. The non-shunted state represents a forward position. The SPS provides 2 current ranges, one range for the shunted state and a second range for a non-shunted state. These 2 states are inputs to the SDM. State 1 (shunted) being the rearward threshold and state 2 (non-shunted) being the forward threshold. When the SDM receives input from a SPS that state 1 threshold is reached (seat is rearward) the SDM will not disable stage 2 deployment, if required by the deployment sensors. When state 2 threshold is reached (seat is forward) the SDM will disable stage 2 deployment on the side the seat is forward. The SDM monitors the SPS circuit and if a fault is detected the SDM will set codes B0083 or B0084 and defaults to disabling stage 2 frontal deployment. This will only default on the side of the vehicle the sensor has a fault. Its important to understand that the SPS is secondary to the passenger presence system (PPS) and the manual instrument panel (I/P) module disable switch. If either one of these devices are in the disable mode the passenger air bag will not deploy regardless of the SPS status.
You should take this to a qualified repair Shop ! Takes special tools to test .

Check to make sure the problem is not with the headphone jack or the external speaker jack as these are in the circuit between the power amp chip and the built in speaker.

You can also trace through the circuit with a music source on the amp input and with simple headphones check the signal path through the circuit until the music disappears. To do this, take a headphone and set it up with 2 test leads on the ends- attach one to ground.

Now your TL072 op amps have 2 outputs, pin1 and pin 7. The inputs for pin 1 are pins 2 and 3, and the inputs for the amp section outputing on pin 7 are pin 5 and pin 6. If you get sound at pin 1 or pin 7, you move forward to the next TL072. Check for output. Then move to the power amp chip on the heat sink. Pin 1 should be the output and will be wired to the headphone jack first. The external speaker jack second and the built in speaker third. The input for that power amplifier chip is pin 7 or pin 8 depending how it is wired.

If the amp chip is blown, make sure to put an adequate amount of thermal grease on the back side of the IC in contact with the heat sink so it can operate as cool as possible.

Sometimes the circuit is wired that the relay must be energized before you get voltage to the bridge rectifier positive pin. If not, be sure the ground of your test lead is on the hot side ground and not common ground when making the measurement at the positive pin. If wired as I mentioned, trace down the circuit that has voltage to the coil of the relay starting from the AC voltage source.

1) Power:

It may be the problem that occurs with a lot of USB powered devices jrherrer. Not enough power provided.

The USB cable plugged into the computer, provides signal wires for transferring information back, and forth, and also provides 5 Volts DC for power. (Two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB

[ Below shows the Signal pins, and the Voltage pins of the USB B Mini style connector, (Male), used to connect to the SimpleDrive Mini external harddrive,

Pin 1 is for the 5 Volts DC Positive (Wire color - Red)
Pin 2 is for the D- Signal (Wire color - White)
Pin 3 is for the D+ Signal (Wire color - Green)
Pin 4 is not connected. (Or sometimes joined to Pin 5 with a Resistor)
Pin 5 is for the Ground (Wire color - Black)

Just added info in case you wanted to know ]

From what I see the SDM/250RW has a USB port on the side, and a DC Power Jack, used for an AC adapter, also.
(Round port with a pin in the center)

http://www.hitachigst.com/tech/techlib.nsf/techdocs/0C876B7AB91B23988825773F006BEA02/$file/SD_Mini_DS_final.pdf


From what I see stated from Hitachi, and sellers on the 'net, the AC adapter may not be provided.
Many of those who provide a review state that both the USB cable, and the AC adapter is needed to provide enough power. Seems to be a power hungry external harddrive

It's a 2.5 Hitachi SATA laptop harddrive inside that external case. (The Harddrive is 2 and a half inches across in Width. Common size used for laptops)

When using an external device powered by a USB cable there are general guidelines to follow,
A) The USB cable should not be more than 2 feet in length
B) Connect the device directly to your computer, instead of through a hub, or other device, unless the USB hub has it's own power.


2) USB cable:

Could be a faulty USB cable, although I imagine you have tried different ones by now.


3) Interface Circuit Board:

The Hitachi SATA 2.5 harddrive inside the SImpleDrive Mini SDM/250RW, plugs into a small circuit board located inside that external case.

Components on the circuit board may be fried, or the Harddrive may have come loose from the interface.

Loose from the interface
To explain;
The back of the harddrive has connector pins sticking out.
The interface has socket holes which the pins insert into.

Faulty circuit board
The external case of the SimpleDrive Mini SDM/250RW can be carefully opened up, and the Hitachi SATA 2.5 harddrive extracted out.

Another inexpensive external case for a 2.5 SATA harddrive can be procured, and the Hitachi harddrive put in it.

Example of a 2.5 SATA external enclosure,

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3743049&CatId=2781

tlnwiayqydee, In terms of lcd monitor age, unit is VERY OLD. Cold cathode fluorescent lamps will need to be changed for new ones. Very hard to do for consumer/user!!! Best if you trade-in for new unit. Did you even look at the "date of manufacture" on back of unit? Look here for lamp information: www.rexim.com and www.jkllamps.com and www.lcdparts.net and www.lcdrepair.us You will need to also visit YOUTUBE for video clips of units being repaired. 12fixlouie

Should be battery first, Then AC adapter (Charger)

Dead short on DC Power Jack?
Are you aware of how a DC Power Jack is made, (Component structure), and how it attaches to the motherboard?

If not, allow me to explain. This is an example of an average DC Power Jack,
http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-42877593004970_2046_1336946

The outside housing of the DC Power Jack, is barely larger than the outside of the AC adapter (Charger) plug.
It's about a 1/4 inch wide, 3/8 inch inch tall, and 1/2 inch long.
The body is made of plastic.

The outside shell opening in the body is the Negative contact.
The pin in the center is the Positive contact.

Those flat metal prongs, or pins, you see in the photo, go down through the motherboard, are are soldered on the bottom side.
The photo of the jack is upside down, in relation to how the jack sits on the motherboard.

When the 'Charger' plug is plugged into the power jack, it can get bumped. A hard enough bump, or repetitious bumps can damage
the center pin mounting, break the outside metal shell loose, and/or break the plastic housing.

It can also break the solder joint/s for those flat metal pins.

AC adapter unplugged from the laptop, battery removed, see if you can take a pencil eraser, and move that middle pin around. You may see the entire jack move.

There is also a large number of laptops, made with a defective motherboard design. To explain, I'll have to give you a crude example.

Think of the laptop motherboard as being a 1 foot square. (It isn't. It's irregular shaped)
Now along the edge of the 1 foot square, attach a 2 inch square.
It's actually all one piece.

Due to accidental bumping of the 'Charger' plug while in the power jack, this 2 inch 'Peninsula' can break away from the main body of the motherboard. (1 foot square)

There are circuit traces on the motherboard. (Think of a circuit trace, as a Very, Flat, Thin, copper wire)
These circuit trace can become stretched by the cracking, or breaking away of the 2 inch 'Peninsula'. They can then be exposed to circuit traces they're not designed to touch. This can cause a direct short.

(Also, due to the bad design of these motherboards, the laptop user can be just using the 'Charger', in an everyday situation, and this 2 inch 'Peninsula' can break.
Just by plugging in, and unplugging)

What model do you have? Either way, there should be buttons underneath or at the bottom of the monitor. If not marked, start pressing until one is displayed that shows choices. That would be your menu settings. If you don't need the choice displayed, do nothing and in a few seconds it will disappear.Most likely, the one you need will be in the appearance of a sun or light bulb. The rest of the buttons will allow you to toggle between choices and then adjust up or down (or left and right for positioning). If you don't like changes that have been made, there is always a selection that lets you restore to factory default settings so have fun experimenting.
If you have a display with dual inputs - one for analog (blue cord ends) and digital (white cord endings), make sure you don't choose the wrong input. Your screen will go black until you put it back to the correct input. Let me know if you have further questions.

check fuse (inside the unit) and power cable, if blown Replace. Now if those are ok then the power unit might be having problem. ask for a technician to check it out.

You can repair any of the traces with small wires from the affected pin to the next componnent on that trace. To remove the board label all wires that you disconnect. There are "bridge" connectors that connect the signal bd and main bd. these lift up off the main board and will stay attached to the board youre working on. If you need further info please let me know. Also use solder wick to remove the solder and get a small tip solder iron 30watt from radio shack. The proper way to solder is (1) allow the iron to heat up. (2) touch the hot tip to the pin on one side and then briefly touch the solder to the other side of that pin so the solder flows around the pin. Use the solder sparingly so you dont bridge the pins with solder. (3) always check your work with a magnifying glass to insure the pins arent bridged.

1. If under warranty, take it to the service center immdtly.
2. The display cable might be loose plug it up.
3. Your system might not be giving signal to the display unit. Is the system running, Listen for a beep when u turn on the system. If there is a beep the System Ok for display or the problem might lies in the Tower itself.