Patton ceiling heater Model# 2433

A good heating element should have continuity. When the heating element breaks, there is no continuity between the heater terminals. But sometimes, the broken ends of the heating element can make contact with the metal heater housing (from vibration) and draw a large current, causing the symptoms you have described.

To confirm a "short" between the heating element and the heater housing, check for continuity between the housing and each heater terminal. (The shorted part of the heating element is usually welded to the housing.) Occasionally, the short will not be welded, but a visual inspection will verify (welding scars and black soot) that a short has occurred, intermittantly.

Replace the terminal block, heater, damaged internal wiring, and possibly the thermal fuse, thermostats, and power cord.

Good luck

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I would think the contacts are burning out on the line voltage thermostats. The contact areas have been reduced over the years so they last just past the warranty period. If it were mine, I'd locate a line voltage baseboard heater thermostat and adapt the control to operate the heater elements. Much higher amp rating and built more substantially.

You probably have a burned connection to the heater element. The insulation on the wire may be burned away, and you have sparking either between the terminal and the heater connection tab, or from the connector to the frame of the dryer. This is not only non-functional, it is a fire hazard. You should cut back the damaged heater wire to the good insulation and crimp on a replacement terminal. Polish the connection tab on the heater before reconnecting so you have a good connection. If the connection tab is severely eroded by the sparking, you will have to repair it or replace the heater assembly.

Before you got through the major expense of replacing the board. try replacing the thermocouple. sometimes the simple selution is the best solution.

There should be a fuse located on the back towards the bottom. It should have a screw in cap holding fuse in plase.Remove fuse and see if you can tell if its blown. If your not sure you can try new fuse of right size and amp rating.Amp rating should be stamped on end or around base of fuse. If this helps thats great. If not and you think heating element is burned you probably better off to just get new one as the price of new element and possible other parts will cost you as much or more than buying new. Hope this helps. Thanks

Sounds like you have a defrost Prob. Take back cover off. Turn defrost timer in to defrost mode you will feel a click. timer may be located in fridge. ceiling or back wall if not there check bottom of fridge. behind kick plate or in back bottom of fridge. by compressor. See if heating element gets hot if not check for 120 volts at heater and defrost thermostat ( Terminator ) if not check defrost timer if you do have 120 volts check for 120 volts at heater terminals if no voltage or weak voltage replace terminator if you do have good voltage replace heating element. When ice builds up the fridge. starts to get warm turn off for 24hrs turn back on fridge. will run OK till ice builds back up.

Hi,
Yes it would seem that the thermostat or the knob would be the problem...when checking for voltage you need to check for 220v across the two terminals for the heating element. You will have 120 feeding back and forth all over the place but the fan and element will only work if they have 220... so you can have voltage and it still not work...

heatman101

This heater was the determined cause of my total loss house fire. I thought the company would atleast help me find some where else to live, they seem to care. But, as of lately they are doing nothing.
I am told this heater-(prh11- 2008 model- purchased at walmart for about $27.00)
- Had wiring that wasn't up to standards
-1/10,000 units cause fires
-something wrong with the heating element-stops working
- wouldn't stand level
-heating coils
-fires like mine have happened to a few other people
This came directly from a person at Jarden corporation(aka patton-sunbeam)