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Unit about 2 yrs old
high broil light comes on
unit beeps
"push start" light on
switches to low broil
must push clear to turn off
oven does not get hot at this time, afraid it will
happens several times a day
please help
Only thing i could say here is replace the control or clock its real name is an eoc electronic oven control now the part is under a five year warrenty but you have to pay labor and use some one that is authorized for ge warrenty work check your owners manuel for second to five year warrenty and go to ge web site to locate servicer in your area http://www.geappliances.com/service_and_support/service/
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What kind of brand of oven that you are using? There are two types where you can you can use your broiler.
*Low Broil: There are 2 broil elements. In low broil only the inner element is on.
*High Broil: There are 2 broil elements. In high broil both the inner and outer are on.
The upper element is for broiling and should not come on until you tell it broil. If it is coming on as soon as you turn on the breaker then it sounds like the printed circuit control board is bad. There is a relay on the board that engages when you program in the broiler. The relay can be hard to find and may not be removable. My broiler would come on when I programmed in the bake mode, go into runaway heat, put up a F10 code, and shut off. I could not clear it until I programmed in the clean mode for 2 hours. Now it works great.
These may be dumb questions... but do your bake and broil typically work correctly? What model do you have?
Depending on model, you should be able to press clean, high or low (2 or 3 hrs), then clean again. At that point the door should lock and the bake element should begin to get hot.
HI. an F-2 during a baking cycle is the result of an out of control oven temp that has reached Temperatures above 615F-630F
If this actual over temperature condition occurred, Look for welded relay contacts on bake or broil relays. If this happens, replace oven control (also called clock or ERC).
If no over temperature condition occurred, Look for a high resistance connection or any other cause of high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit. Check sensor, sensor harness and sensor harness connection at sensor and oven control. Replace sensor if found defective.
Remember: Oven control (ERC) measures resistance of sensor circuit , not actual oven temperature.
Control senses oven temperature above 615F-630F. shut down the breaker switch asap.
If actual over temperature condition occurred: Look for welded
relay contacts on bake or broil relays. If this happens, replace oven
control (also called clock or ERC).
If no over temperature condition occurred: Look for a high
resistance connection or any other cause of high resistance in the oven
temperature sensor circuit. Check sensor, sensor harness and sensor
harness connection at sensor and oven control. Replace sensor if found
defective.
Remember: Oven control (ERC) measures resistance of sensor circuit
, not actual oven temperature.
Check wires and connectors from control to door switch, then from
door switch to control. If no damage to wires and all connectors okay,
proceed to step C.
Replace door switch.
Re-apply power.
Press and hold any key down for 1 minute to clear F5 failure code
from memory. F2 will appear. Press CANCEL and observe for 1 minute to
ensure operation is correct.
2. If door not latched:
Disconnect power from unit.
Check wires and connectors from control to latch switch, then from
latch switch to control. If no damage to wires and all connectors okay,
proceed to step C.
Repeat steps A and B for door switch.
3. Measure door switch (door open = switch open small low voltage
terminals). Replace switch if defective.
4. Measure latch switch (unlatch = switch open, CAUTION - oven light
contacts are closed). Replace switch if defective.
5. If corrections are made in any step, reconnect power to control.
Press and hold any key for 1 minute to clear R failure code from memory.
F2 will appear. Press CANCEL and observe for 1 minute to ensure
operation is correct.
6. If failure remains, disconnect power and replace control.
Bad clock assembly although the clock works the solid state switches internally typically go bad even on brand new ovens,does broil work,the top elements should work?
You said, After coming on and preheating Saturday, the upper oven went off and
the lower wouldn't work either. Control paned was blank, but interior
lights were on and pushing control paned buttons resulted in beeps.
Turned off breaker for 5 minutes to reset and upon retry, the fan came
on for maybe 5 seconds and then went off. Nothing else changed. Any
suggestions?
You say the ovens went on and then later cut off. Does the clean mode work? Try the clean mode and see if it goes on. Assuming it will clean!
Since the Range will
clean you have confirmation that the proper power is reaching the
range. It also verifies that the elements are in working condition. You
will need to check the high temperature limit switch and the door latch
mechanism. If either of these is defective, the bake and broil function
will not operate properly Let me know how it goes. Waiting your response. Huuum
Try this first! The control panel has a flat ribbon cable that plugs into the relay module. The ribbon is actually two ribbons pressed together. The plastic insulation has a defect, and the leads between the two ribbons cross. You can seperate them easily by lifting them apart. Place a piece of paper between them to act as an insulator. This should solve your problem. If that does not work, repalce the defective parts yourself. You can do it for about 30% of what a repair company would charge. it's either got to be 1. Control panel 2. Relay panel. Good luck!!!
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