Apparently the motor is working but the timer is not running

Timer is not identified.
Analog timers have clock motor.
If the gears strip out, then timer can run backwards.
Some timers have replaceable clock motors, such as Intermatic and Tork box timers, and pool timers.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-Intermatic-clock-motor.html
While small plug in timers generally do not have replacement parts.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Malibu-power-pack-stopped-working.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Motor runs, but main burner will not ignite
1.heat switch set wrong---correct switch setting
2.defective timer or timer circuit---check timer wiring--replace timer motor or switch as needed
3.defective centrifugal switch in motor---clean switch or replace as needed
4.gas supply valve closed----open gas valve
5.inoperative solenoid coil---test coil for open circuit & the voltage to it
???
Pilot burner goes out
1.insufficient gas supply---- low gas pressure or clogged pilot filter or partially closed gas valve
2.carbon deposit on thermocouple tube---clean tube & check pilot burner for proper combustion
3.improperly adjusted pilot flame--adjust pilot flame until faint yellow tip begins to appear
4.faulty ignition or reset valve or thermocouple---replace

Clothes not drying, but dryer runs & heats
1.defective operating thermostat---test thermostat, replace if defective
2.fan or it's pulley loose on shaft---tighten set screw
3.incorrect heat or timer settings---reset timer
4.clothes to wet when placed in dryer----wring out or extract water from clothes before placing in dryer
5.clogged lint screen or duct (little air motion)---clean out lint screen & duct

For starters, disregard which way the timer runs. Push in the pins for when you want it to power your lights. Turn the dial to set the time of day that it is now. That should be it.

Usually the timer motor is bad when that happens. Replacement timer motors are available from websites like this one:
http://www.aplussupply.com/intermatic/timermotors.htm

Be sure to get the right voltage timer motor. Intermatic T101's and T103's use a 120 volt timer motor (Cat# WG1570) and the T104 uses a 240 volt timer motor (Cat# WG1573).

If you don't want to mess around replacing the timer motor, you can purchase a new timer, and as long as the existing enclosure is in good shape, just swap out the guts.

Your problem may be the electronic control board/timer assembly. Contact an appliance service company.

Check the voltage across the timer motor, make sure that you have 120 volts. If you have 120 across the timer motor, then it is bad. Also check your wiring to make sure you have wires in right place

if it looks somewhat like a elongated and cropped figure 8 it is what we around here call a clutch drive. if it looks like a 6 point star, it is a torx drive.. Be aware, the screws holding the guard in place may also be holding the pump in place under the unit. if so removing the screws would allow the pump to fall off the bottom of the unit.

If the unit washes, the motor and pump are working (the same motor/pump that washes the dishes also drains the unit)

if the motor is not running during the drain cycle, it is most likely the timer or a connection to the timer

if the unit is not running at all, it could be the motor or timer

if the motor/pump is working, I would first ensure the drain line is not clogged (pump may be trying to drain the unit and forcing the water out were ever it can due to a blocked drain hose, this would explain the water on the floor. I have found that when a drain line is blocked, it is usually blocked where the drain hose connects to the drain pipe under the sink.

let me know what you find and we will Fix Ya.

clarkco

You need a new timer assembly. Please be very care full when hard wiring your machine. it could short the machine out and also cause personal and property injury.

sometimes as a timer gets older the timer motor will get a little loud. timer motors run even when the door is open. if the timer advances to off and everything works fine you don't need to worry about it.

see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

• The compressor



• The Thermostat



• The overload, relay, or capacitor



• The defrost timer



• The condenser fan motor