Getting sticky, losing time as a result. No longer dependable for super time keeping as before. Is any lube, etc possible?

Use compressed Air and blow around the wholes. Most likely lint making it think a jam has happened... Do not use any other spray lube just Air. Lube with make dust sticky.
Hope this helps

You really need a wiring diagram for your car before you can properly check the wiring.

There are a number of possibilities and not all of them are a short circuit.
Your car might have a separate voltage regulator and could have originally been fitted with with various charging systems depending on trim level and possible supply problems.

One further possibility is as the supply of alternators with an integrated voltage regulator increased and the price reduced it wasn't unusual for subsequent alternator changes to result in the minor modifications to the wiring and an integrated unit fitted.

You need to know these things...

That doesn't mean it's losing compression. It can only possibly lose compression from internal wear or sticky valves or stretched timing chain or catastrophic failure - it can't lose compression one moment, then regain compression the next moment except in cases of sticky valves or stretched timing chain.

I doubt you have any of these issues, unless your car is pretty badly worn. What's happening is your car has lost most of its POWER, not compression.

At any rate... if it's a modern car, get the computer's error codes with an OBD (if pre-1987) or OBDII (1997 and later) scan tool. If no codes or engine older than about 1987, suspect poor or old gasoline, fuel pressure or flow rate, clogged air filter, weak coil, plugged exhaust, various ignition-related issues, park brake set, accelerator linkage, serious mechanical problems (wheel bearings, etc). This isn't a question that warrants a quick "silver bullet" answer, there are TONS of things that might cause you to lose the ability to accelerate.

Run time depends on a few things, including the weight of the rider, the terrain being riden over and the condition of the bike.
For example, a light rider riding on flat hard packed dirt or paved road with a bike that is in good mechanical condition - tires inflated to correct pressure, chain correctly adjusted/lubed, brakes adjusted, etc. - will have a longer run time than a heavier rider on soft undulating dirt with a bike that has not been maintained.
Generally you should be able get 40-45 minutes out of a new battery.
Check out the trouble shooting guide and user manual if you are getting less than half and hour.
http://www.razorama.com/ownersmanuals.html

Hi

Please try to press both the shift keys at the same time
this may disable the sticky keys and return the keyboard to normal

this quite often happens when you hold the shift key down for longer than 8 seconds or more

many thanks

You want to buy Bar grade oil, it is sticky and stays on the chain, it will properly lube the bar and chain with a full tank o gas. People have used, used motor oil but this wears down the chain and gears from the micro sized filings in the oil so use clean bar oil to lube the chain correctly. also if the chain sprocket has a small hole in the tip of the saw you will need to buy a gear lube pump to keep grease in the gear at the tip of the blade. This should be lube each time you fill the fuel tank and once half way threw the tank of fuel to make the bar last longer. The bar oil is a special grade of oil and requires bar oil for it to adhere to the bar and the bar guides. Hope this helps and thanks for using fix-ya.

The tumblers in the lock are maybe getting sticky, as far as you know it's the original door and lock, on the vehicle? Go to an auto parts store and get some lock lube, squirt some into the lock. Now, work the key in and out a few times and try to turn it. Keep working the key in and out and squirt lube in the lock. If it's the correct lock with the matching key it should loosen up.

idle cable out of adjustment and or throttle cable needs adjusting also and they always need to be lubed at 5000 miles adjust throttle cable with wheel striaght forward idle cable to all the way right lock and 2-3mm free play on throttle grip

If it's 3 years old, it might need replacing.

There are two factors. One is that the fuser (hot) rollers get contaminated with toner residue, resulting in them getting sticky. The sheet sticks to the roller, and instead of being fed straight through, it gets bent with the direction of roller rotation, and is pushed under the separator pieces.
The second is that the separator "tongues", that should facilitate separating the sheet from the roller and directing the paper to the output, deteriorate over time. They are plastic, and subject to prolonged heat, so after some time they tend to lose their shape, get cracky etc.

Replacing the fuser is not a hard task, OKI is rather modular in it's construction. The instructions should come with the new fuser unit, and also you can look for directions on OKI website.

Good luck :)

The shutter & mirror is in need of a CLA. Clean, Lube & Ajustment. Its well needed for any camera when they are 20 years old and older