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Bad igniter? Could be a safety control telling the furnace not to light. Check to see if the furnace has a diagnostic indicator. If so count the flashes and then check the diagnostics list inside the door or in the owners manual. This should narrow the problem down.
Sounds like the furnace is tripping off on a limit safety, either temperature or air switch. Check filters and restrictions to air flow (furniture over return air grills, blocked filters) also, check the drainage line of the system. If the furnace can't drain water fast enough it will back up internally, and trip the system off on a pressure switch safety.
Coleman is known for this. I have seen many over the years make this noise during cool down. The heat exchanger is contracting and expanding. The heat exchanger is the part that the fire burns in. It surrounds the flame, and when the furnace is on, the metal they use for many of their furnaces has a tendency to make noise as it cools off. One other thing, if you don't already have one, it would be good for you to buy a carbon monoxide detector and put it in the mobile home somewhere up high hopefully in the hallway close to the furnace return air. If the heat ex. is expanding as is sounds, it would be good to make sure it does not have a crack in it , in turn releasing dangerous fumes. Hope this helps.
Should be able to slow down. Inside bottom door of furnace there are 4 or 5 wires, connected to board and blower motor. White is common. Red is slowest, then orange, blue, black fastest.
1 of these wires should be connected to Air Cond tap, one to furnace tap and 2 to unused taps.
If you are currently running furnace, connect red wire to heat tap. Make sure unit does not get to hot. Should be able to hold hand on Metal duct above furnace without getting to hot. Temp coming out of furnace should be around 35 to 60 degrees higher than temp coming into furnace. Actual heat rise temp is listed inside top of furnace rating tag.
Definitely a thermostat.It has 2 sections.One is a temperature reference section(what temp you want).The other is the temp reading section.If either one is bad,it will do just like you said.Sounds like the reference section is probably bad because it comes on for a couple minutes then shuts down.Since it was fine earlier in the day,I doubt there is anything wrong with the furnace because as you can see,it is temperature related.A furnace problem would be more of no operation at all,even if just dirty or whatever.The thermostat also would be a more common 'fail component' than the board.A suggestion also,both for a car and a house.During the summer,run the heat for 2-3 minutes,just to cycle it occasionally.In winter,run the A/C for 2-3 minutes.Do both perhaps once or twice a month.It helps keep the components,somewhat fresh I guess you would say,because cycling it occasionally helps to keep it going good.Also,if you encounter a problem,you may be able to get it fixed before you really need it.In the meantime,feel free to come on down to FL until it's fixed,we have room,lol.Although it's chilly now,the weekend will be 70's.(sorry)Good luck,Greg
the high limit is sensing the internal temprature of the furnace.If your filter is very dirty or you have to many of the registers/dampers shut it will cause the temp. of the furnace to exceed its rating and the high limit will open the circuit and shut down the flow of gas. Your blower will then run until the furnace has cooled and the switch will close and allow it to come back on. This is bad for your furnace, make sure your filter is clean and you dont have to many registers shut. If you have run the unit without a filter the problem could be much more sever requiring blower wheel and coil cleaning and possibly a cracked heat exchanger.
If you google the make and model number you should pick up the company website where you can down load a manual .You may also find a tech helpline they will give the right size flue .
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