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Posted on Sep 22, 2010

Weedeater BV200 will not crank. I have put in a new plug and a new Ignition Module (gap at .008). It is getting spark and appears to be getting fuel. The compression is at about 85 after 3 pulls. Any suggestions? It is not trying to fire at all.

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bigminfl

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  • Contributor 36 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 22, 2010
bigminfl
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Joined: Feb 17, 2009
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If your getting spark, then most likely its bad gas, or carb needs adjusting. i would rebuild the carb 1st, then adjust. if it has old gas in it, quite possible its gunked up. if no help there, take muffler apart and check screen. these go bad quite often. and always make sure air filter is atleast clean, or replace it every season. most neglected, and so so important. if a machine cant breath, it cant preform!

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Why Do I Not Have Any Spark From The Ignition Module When Spark Plug is in The Cylinder

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Won't start but is getting plenty of fuel. Also has a new spark plug.

Test the spark plug (gapped at 0.020") for blue, snappy spark. If weak or nothing, remove the left side cover to expose the flywheel and ignition module. Turn the flywheel until the magnets are under the poles of the module, insert a thin business card into the pole gaps, loosen the module screws to allow the module to contact the magnets. Tighten the screws and turn the flywheel somewhat to release the card, then turn the flywheel one full turn to make sure the gaps don't close up. Remove the ignition switch wire from the module body, and try for spark again. If nothing, replace the module using the above procedure. If you did get spark, replace the ignition switch wire and try again--if nothing now, look for a short circuit to ground in the wire or the ignition switch. If you got a good spark in the first test, pour a little fuel mix into the plug hole and try for start--if pops several times, you have fuel delivery problems. Check the fuel filter, air cleaner, and muffler for plugging. Check the fuel lines for decay or other damage. Make sure the primer bulb fills with fuel when pumped several times. Does the engine seem to have good compression? Hope some of this helps!
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Take the spark plug out (gapped 0.020") and test for spark--it should be blue and snappy. If ok, pour a little fuel mix into the plug hole and try for start--if pops several times, then you have fuel delivery problems. If none/weak spark, then remove the starter assembly and side cover over the flywheel. This will expose the ignition module--set the pole gap using a thin business card for a gauge. Turn the flywheel so that the magnets are under the module poles, insert the gauge, loosen the module screws and allow to contact the magnets. Recheck for spark--if still bad, replace the module. Back to the fuel delivery problems. Check the fuel lines for decay or other damage. Make sure the carburetor fasteners are tight. Hope some of this helps!
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Check for blue, snappy spark at the plug (gapped at 0.020"). If weak or nothing, remove the flywheel cover to expose the ignition module. Check the module gap with a thin business card--turn the flywheel magnets under the module poles, insert the card into the gap, loosen the module screws, and allow the module to contact the magnets, then tighten the screws. Turn the flywheel somewhat to remove the card. Recheck for spark--if ok, try for engine start. If still no spark, remove the ignition switch wire from the module and retry for spark. If still nothing, replace the module. Install per the above instructions. Hope this helps!
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Remove the spark plug and test for spark. If nothing, try a new plug set to 0.020" gap. If ok, put a small mount of fuel mix in the plug hole and try to start. If you get several pops, then check the fuel filter, air cleaner and muffler for plugging. Check the fuel lines for rot or damage. Make sure to use fresh fuel premix (40:1) using modern synthetic saw oil in it's own can and shake thoroughly just before filling each time. If you got no spark in the first test, expose the flywheel and ignition module. Remove the wire from the module that goes to the ignition switch and check for spark. If still nothing, replace the module using a thin business card for a gap gauge between the module poles and the flywheel magnets. If you did get spark, then investigate the ignition switch and wire for possible grounding. Hope some of this helps!
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The first thing to check for is spark at the plug. Remove it and reconnect the wire--lay the plug body on the cylinder head or other metal part. Pull the engine through--the spark should be blue and snappy. If nothing, make sure the ignition switch is set to run and try a new clean plug. If still nothing, you need to check the ignition system. Go to: searspartsdirect.com and enter the complete model number of the saw (minus the decimal point). A series of drawings will appear, select the ignition layout. If this is a newer saw, the ignition will be a self-contained module mounted just outside of the flywheel. The first check before buying a new module is to remove the grounding wire that goes to the switch, and try to get spark again. If still nothing, and the pole gap between the module and the flywheel magnets (set with a thin business card for a clearance gauge) appears to be correct, order a new ignition module. Once you get spark, the other major problem is usually the fuel system. Hope this helps!
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The engine case needs to be removed to expose the flywheel and ignition module. Check the module pole gap to the flywheel magnets with a thin business card for a gauge. If the gap is excessive, that can give a weak spark. If the gap appears to be correct, then it is probably time for a new ignition module. Make sure the spark plug is gapped at 0.020" before condemning the module. The spark should be blue and snappy. Check it in a dark area. Hope this helps!
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