I ordered a replacement switch for the JED8430ADW. The previous switch was 7403P406-60. The replacement switch is 12002125. I have no clue how to re-connect the wiring. it looks nothing like the old switch.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check foroverheated wires or faulty terminals first.Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.

1. If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.(Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.

1. On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.

1. Set yourmultimeterto ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.

1. Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".

1. If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.

1. With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.

1. A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.

If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Most modern ovens usean electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

Hello Donna ,
If by saying "stays lit" ya mean that the flame goes off when turning off the knob yet it continues to spark all the time ?? if yes that's whats happening the flame goes off but it keeps sparking whats wrong it that the switch that turns on the spark when the knob is turned is bad and that is what needs to be replaced. GE only makes that switch available in a complete assembly with all 5 switches and the wiring for it. It's not to bad to replace that actually,what ya would need to do to replace that switch harness asm. ya need to take off the main top which can be done by removing the burner grates and caps from the burners,then is the outer center of each burner will be 2 screws remove those screws from all burners then the all 5 knobs and the top will lift off,that switch harness has keyed plugs and will only fit in one way so its not to bad to replace it. The part number for that switch/wire harness asm. is WB18T10381 it could be purchased at your local appliance parts store or online at; searspartsdirect.com apdepot.com partselect.com apwagner.com repairclinic.com
Thank you for using Fixya.Com,if you should require further assistance please reply and i will be happy to help,
GENE

Replace your burner switch, order with model number, sometimes called an infinite switch. This is a common problem, although we suspect that power surges are causing some of these problems. Appliance Specialists

usually this is a problem with one or more of your ignitor switches, they are found below the selector switches, below the top, if you take off the selectors you might even be able to see them,
these are what sends voltage to you ignitor, from the spark module, one one goes bad, they all tend to spark, because light one light all....
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4101545
this link wil take you right to the part i suggest,
as well as be able to order it

since this happens alot after a boil over i would start with one of the front two burners,,,, you can order one and keep replacing them with the next till the clicking stops

Glass on cooktops are not fixable - due to the chance of electrical shocks the manufacturer strongly suggest replacement of the glass.

Looked up switches and they sale for about $35 thru jenn air, seems steep for repair and if you know which ones are bad and know how to work on things then I would suggest saving some headache and money in this case. Simply paying attention to #1 safety <power off> #2 how it is assembled < screw placement,wires> savings would be big deal to most homes. If you're not interested in doing this then just remember it lasted four years without fail and new ones could take you that long again. The downside is there are two more and four used burners as well. I don't feel it is my place to tell you best answer for you because we all have different situations. I would keep it because I can simply fix it for a reasonable cost,but not all of us can do that.If you don't keep it sale it to used appliance place and at least get something out of it for the trouble.

are you up for the job? you may need a new switch.(Part # 74009254)the origal switch is nla but this switch should work. If you attemp changing yourself make sure you turn off the circuit breaker to the range,

you can find the parts breakdown at sears.com parts
I looked up the fan switch # for you it is Part # 74009254
it is a big job to replace just remember to turn of breaker.

1. Turn off the power at the breaker box.
2. lift off the air grill.
3. remove the two screws at the front of the control switch panel (escutcheon)..
4. slide the control panel forward until it disengages, then lift up to expose the switch assembly and wiring.

I am wondering if you just need to replace the knob then perhaps you don't need to take much apart.

Is this a knob that has an allen screw in the side that unscrews to let it come off or is it a friction fit.

If the knob is so small that you can't get it off some times wrapping a thin rag around it gives you the way to tug it off. If it is the whole switch you are fixing then I see why you need to take lots of things apart. If found the installation manual online and that might give you a clue to how it is installed in the counter to take it back out if you need to get to the insides. I am not sure what you need help with so please let me know more if this was not enough.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/product_literature/search_results.jsp?searchTerm=CVE340&siteCd=JA_EN_US