Evap coil eventually freezes. But it will maintain 10. The boar

KitchenAid Refrigerator Not Defrosting - Model ...

www.repairclinic.com/...-/KitchenAid-Refrigerator-not-defrosting-KFFS...
Show all parts for model KFFS20EYMS00 ... If the defrost heater assembly has burned out, the frost will build up on the coils and eventually no air will be able to ...

Depends are you referring to the condenser fan or the evaporation fan? If it's the condenser fan you may have an issue with debris in the condenser coil not letting enough air flow to cool down so it will stay on to keep from burning up compressor.If it's inside the evaporator coil then it may be low on refrigerant possibly freezing up the evap coil making it run then kick into defrost run kick into defrost etc... hope this helps

On Hoshizaki freezers, it has several items that can cause this. Check to see if the heater in the evap are heating up when in defrost. Older machine can force a defrost by just unplug and then plug back in to outlet to do this. There is a "Klixon" type thermostat that disconnects the heaters in case of an overheating condition. These go bad fairly often. Make sure the door closes and seals. Be sure not to do anything that hampers air flow over the evap.

Yes, as long as it hasn't been sitting out in the warmth too long, bacteria can grow under those conditions. If it's fine you can freeze it, but take care to wrap it so that it is air tight, otherwise it will freezer burn. After freezing it might not be *quite* as tasty as when brought home from the deli, but it will still be good.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/general-electric-refrigerator-gsl25jftabs-repair/gsl25jftabs-frost-buildup.html

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720

You can by pass it but I wouldn't. You may need to replace the t'stat on this. This controls pretty much everything. Depending on your model, the defrost cycle can be adjusted to shorter cycles. Bypassing it would eventually lead to ice build up and a real mess to follow .

There is a thermostat probe sat on the front of the evaporator to tell the control board when to harvest. Check it is tight in it's holder. Check the condenser is absolutely clean and filters clear. You can adjust the thickness of the cube. set it on the thinnest setting and see if it harvests before freezing solid.

Ice showing on the copper lines is a sign of a dirty coil or low refrigerant.

if the evap fan is not turning try to turn it by hand a few times then start you freezer if it does not turn it needs to be replaced.make sure there is no ice build up on the evap coils.alos check the continuity of the defrost heater below the evap coils.once you het teh fan replace your unit should cool down to the proper temps.

The coil in the conditioned space is called the evaporator.
If the water droplets are forming on the ceiling around the evap, it is due, most likely, to the defrost cycle being too long.
Defrost cycle: compressor stops, evap fans stop, electric heaters in the evap come on to clear any ice/ frost on evap fins/ coil.
The ice/ frost melts and some of it turns into vapor. As it hits the cold ceiling surface, it condensates into water droplets. Defrost cycle could be too long. Usually 4 time aday and no longer than 30 minutes should be enough unless there is high humidity.
There could be another cause.
Normally, after a defrost cycle terminates, the evap fans do not come on, due to a delay control. This prevents circulating warm are due to the heaters. The compressor comes on and cools the evap down to, usually 20 degrees or so, and then the fans come on. What could be happening is, the fans are coming on too early and blowing the water driplet off the evap and onto the back wall of the unit.
A third item, is to be sure that the condensate drain is "P" trapped. The prevents warm, outside air from being drawn in and causing exess frost build up, thus excess water and vapor.

Good luck and hope this helps