How do I check lid switch without taking machine apart. The model is RAS7133KQ1. Will not drain or spin.

A defective cycle timer could cause no spin, no drain.

Sounds like you probably have a broken lid switch, without an exact model number its hard to be sure. If you normally have to close the lid for the washer to drain and spin that is probably the part that is broken. Pretty common for that model. With the lid switch broken the washer acts like the lid is open and won't begin the drain/spin process. Hope this helps.

First test if it is a problem with the lid switch. There are many YouTube videos on how to take apart the control panel and test the pins with a multimeter. On my washer, the lid switch passed the multimeter test but I did my test below and determined it was still the lid switch that was the problem.
When it gets to the point where the washer is supposed to drain and then spin-rinse but doesn't do anything, open the lid and push down on the lid switch lever with a small solid stick (chopstick, screwdriver, etc..) where the lid switch pin would normally push down on until you hear a click. If it suddenly drains, then the lid switch needs to be replaced. If you're lucky, it's a $6 part on ebay and 15 minutes of your time. If nothing happens, then find the YouTube video on testing the lid switch with a multimeter.

If it won't fill you will need to replace the "water inlet valve" on the back of the unit. The unit will only agitate if it gets the signal from the water level pressure switch.
Here is the valve to order.

Any of these two may work please try Instructions: Draining the machine 1) Locate the drainage hose, pump and filter. Check your owner's manual for the description. If you cannot access these items easily from the outside of your machine you may have to call a repair person.
2)Disconnect the drain hose. Make sure the end has been open (and cut) and that there is nothing plugging it. If the end is closed, cut the end off. Remove any blockage and let the water drain into the bucket. If the hose is not blocked, or your model washing machine does not feature a drainage hose, proceed to Step Three.
3)Check the pump and filter. In some models this resides behind a flap in the back of a washing machine. Locate a small drain hose and disconnect to drain the water. Hoses located in this manner may cause the water to drain slowly. If it drains only in small drops or not at all you may have to take apart the pump to find the blockage.
4)Bail out the water using a small bucket.
other alternate would be
Most likely it is the lid switch. And you can't always tell just by looking at it.

Next guess would be the timer having bad contacts.

If it wants to spin but don't or barely moves, then it's the coupling that needs to be replaced.

What causes the lid switch to go bad is slamming/dropping the lid down or setting something heavy on top of the washer.

The washer is supposed to pump out the water first, then start spinning. It won't do that if the lid switch is bad.

either the lid safety switch or the timer has gone bad

The problem may actually be much simpler than what you think. Before you go wasting money on a bunch of parts you may not need, check your lid switch. The most common cause of the problem you are experiencing is a lid switch malfunction. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, a wash tub that will not drain, and stopping right after the wash cycle and not advancing to rinse or spin cycles.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average price is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices differ between sites so shop and compare.

If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. The lid switch is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman. I hope this information is helpful. NOTE: The pumps on these washers are strictly MECHANICAL. It consists of one moving part, the impeller. Usually, when the pump goes bad, the drive motor will STILL run, but the impeller won't turn. Or, the pump leaks, or it becomes clogged. Since you lowered the drain hose and water began to drain, the pump is not clogged. Since the washer IS agitating, this means the drive motor is still working. Without the drive motor, the washer would fill, but would never agitate.

Check the lid switch.  Machines will adgitate without the lid being closed, but it won't drain or spin with the lid open.  The lid switch is located in the rim where the lid closes.

Lid switch is most likely the problem, if lid switch is visible under lid on right side then this is older design and common problem switch.
if you have console frame covers on front sides, snap off from top, a screw is at bottom front corners of console, remove and pull console forward and fold back. If lid swich is hidden then you will see it at left on top of cabinet with console folded back. a 5/16 screw holds a green ground wire to cab. remove and switch will unclip with lid up. If lid switch was visible under lid then you need to remove 2 brass clips holding cabinet on top of base to back, pry with screwdriver to unclip. undo harness connection on cabinet top, this is your lid switch connection. sw body is held by 2 phillips screws, harness tube held by clips on underside of cabinet top. ground wire with 5/16 screw present at sw body. New versions of this switch have metel shield attached.

Check the lid switch.Try this loosen the 3  trans . bolts about a quarter inch and try it.