JENNAIR OVEN FCE30611WC FUSE. The element went on this oven. When cancel was pressed to shut off the oven, the display went black....is it possible that this is just a blown fuse? If so, what fuse do I get and where does it go?

othing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times:
1. Home breaker flipped or the fuse blown? Possibly an electrical surge has flipped the breaker. Check your breaker or fuse box and replace or reset as necessary.
2. Power cord plugged in? Grab the plug and wiggle to determine a good connection.
3. Power cord damage? Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires.
4. A clicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
5.
6. Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.
If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse
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Oven Control Board
The oven control board has a set of relays that turn on and off power to the bake and broil circuits according to the customer settings and sensor input. If the oven won't turn off it could be that one of the relays on the oven control board is shorted closed, providing voltage to the heating circuit. It can be dangerous if the oven won't turn off. Don't leave the oven unattended without turning off power to the oven.
Relay board:
Some ovens are equipped with a relay board. This circuit board has several relays which control the switching of electrical current to the oven heat source. If the oven won't turn off it may be that one or more of the relays on the relay board have failed. If this happens replace the relay board. The relays on the board are not sold separately. ALSO CHECK THE BAKE AND BROIL ELEMENT.

Good afternoon Steve!
The answer may depend a bit on what you mean by 'stops heating'.

• One interpretation could be 'the heating shuts off, and the oven goes back toward room temperature
• The other would be that it heats up, but it heats to a certain temp and then stays there. it's just not as hot as it's supposed to be.

If it's the former, that sounds like something is overheating and an interlock is engaging because it's interpreted as 'I'm too hot where I shouldn't be, and I should shut off before I cause a fire. I'd leave that to a better trained service tech.

If it's the latter, then it'll depend on how low it is. If it's way low, then there's a couple possibilities:

1. The heater element is defective, and even at the full current draw the oven can run, it can't get any hotter than that upper temp. This would mean replacing the element.
2. The temperature sensor in the oven is defective or mis-mounted. There should be a temp sensor inside the oven cavity. if it's disconnected, or, say, bent out of place and much nearer the bake element then it should be, then the heat coming direct off of the element may be fooling it into thinking the oven is hotter than it really is. this could mean replacing the temp sensor, or just re-mounting it to proper position.

If it's just a bit low, then there could just be a calibration problem. If you look at the manual here
DCS WOS 127 Use And Care Manual Child Safety User Option you can see how to adjust the calibration up or down in temperature to, hopefully, match the oven thermometer you're trying to use as a check.

Hope this helps!
Good Luck
D

Oven comes on and off intermittentlyor heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

OrWhy does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bakeignitor. Replacing theignitorusually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that theignitoris the problem before replacing it.Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

OrOven safety valve needs to be checkedwith multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSOTest the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreakerpanelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meterto the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!











Why is the oven temperature incorrect?

The oven temperature controlis usually controlled by a thermostat that uses a capillary and liquid filled bulb. When the bulb's liquid gets heated up, it expands and puts pressure on a diaphragm which opens and closes a switch that controls the gas to the burner. Just set the dial to what you need the temperature to be. Over time, it is possible for your thermostat to lose its calibration. Sometimes, the thermostat sensing bulb comes loose from the holder. If it is out of place, the thermostat may be getting faulty readings. If this is the problem, re-aligning the bulb properly will take care of this problem.Digital display models use a sensor to control temperature. If this is faulty, replace it. Other ovens use a mechanical system to control the temperature.On many models, you can adjust your oven thermostat using a small screwdriver. The adjusting screw is located on the thermostat valve stem. Remove the knob and you'll see the screw underneath it. You want to turn the oven on and run it through at least two cycles while watching a calibrating thermometer in the oven for high and low temperatures. Adjust the screw as necessary to fine tune the temperature.Some models don't have an adjustable thermostat, and you will have to replace the thermostat if you want to resolve the problem.
The oven sensor:works with the oven control board to regulate the oven temperature. If there is an oven temperature problem, this sensor might be defective. The sensor can be tested by using an ohm meter. As temperature rises, the resistance measurement also rises. The manufacturer of the oven sensor determines the correct resistance,Oven temperature problems can be caused by other things,but this is one of the common causes.
Beware on some models nowmost of these ovens they are electronic and they are integrated into the control itself
some different sensor ohm readings at room temp. approx 16 ohms at room temperature and at 350?F it is 29~33 ohms.
Read more:
http://www.justanswer.com/appliance/5xrsf-ge-xl44-gas-oven-oven-ignites-even-when-oven.html#ixzz3YdtiPcn8
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!

Could be the elements.if it is a fan oven the elements sit behind the rep late.first check the fuse box.then if the oven lights up it could only be the elements.they are easy to replace .you can buy the replacement units off eBay.you can also watch a tutorial on replacing them on YouTube.

Make sure the oven timer is set properly, if its turned off, the oven will not go on. Also check if the oven has separate fuse, it may have blown.

Could be the fuse in the back turn off the power and trace the wiring with a multimeter, when you stop getting continuity there is the fuse.
Good luck Ray

Sounds like the heating/starter element went out. This item is very delicate and will break if touched. They are used on almost all newer gas appliances. It takes about 3 minutes to check. Turn the oven on and look down near the burners with all of the lights in the room out. You should see a glow for a while, then it will click off for a while and then come back on. If not, then turn off the oven and get a flashlight and look for the starter element to see if it is broken. It is about one inch wide, two inches long, and 1/4 inch thick. If you do get a glow then this is good news, the element is not broken. However, the element operates a thermostatic switch which operates the gas valve. This switch may be broken. The switch and the starter element usually come out together when removed.

Hello Larry D Harris - Does any part of the range work? I would recommend verifying that a fuse is not blown or a circuit breaker tripped. Test the power outlet with a lamp, hair dryer, etc. Another questions, does "Loc" appear in the display if any button is pushed? The Oven Lockout feature automatically locks the oven door, prevents the warmer drawer and most oven controls from being turned ON. If so, press and hold CLEAR/OFF for 3 seconds. A beep will sound. LOC will clear. The "DOOR LOCKED" will continue to flash until the oven door has completely unlocked. Do the maintop burners work? Granting that it does, you can try confirming that the shut-off valve on the gas pressure regulator is in the "ON" position (usually located on the back left-hand side of the range). This valve shuts off gas to the oven. If after the basic troubleshooting, you continue to experience the issue I would suggest contacting a certified technician to assist in the full diagnosis and repair of your range.

This solution only really applies to oven elements only. I haven't experienced it with hotplate elements as they are not normally controlled by the timer. When you have an electronic timer and there is a blackout the timer normally reverts to auto. function when the power comes back on. You have to set it back to manual before the oven will work. Turn the oven element to ON and the set it to manual. The oven element indicator light will light and the oven will work.

Fuse won't let it shut off? That doesn't make sense. A fuse is made to connect something not disconnect something. I don't know how much you paid that repair man but I would probably call another to verify the diagnosis.
Good luck.
Semper Fi,
Z