My battery door is still on its hinge, but the plasic cover is broken in half and bulging under the spring pressure -- camera works ok, but the battery door looks like it's about to let go, soon. 1., From where might I get a replacement door?; and, 2., Is it something I can install myself?
SUCCESS! My "parts only" camera from EBay arrived, and I was able to remove it's batt door. And was able to take to broken door off my camera, and replace it. Now, it's really small work, so I hope you don't have big fingers. You have to be slow and patient. The only tools I needed were one of those tiny "watch" screwdrivers, and a pair of good tweezers. Remove all the visible phillips screws until the back of the camera case lets you know its ready to come off. Fit tolerances are almost microscopic, so it takes courage and care to see what you have to do to remove the front cover also (another screw or two). I practiced on the EBay LCD-broken camera first. Now, the batt door has a hinge pin that you can then pull out with tweezers, but first study the tiny door spring to make sure you know how it goes back. Withdraw the pin and capture the spring. Replace the door, and put everything back together in reverse. In the process I was careful not to touch anything in the camera that's electronic for fear of electrostatic discharge from my fingers that might "fry" something. Feel gratified for having beat the "not user serviceable" Kodak camera repair industry. Saved maybe $75, plus didn't have to buy a new camera.SUCCESS! My "parts only" camera from EBay arrived, and I was able to remove it's batt door. And was able to take to broken door off my camera, and replace it. Now, it's really small work, so I hope you don't have big fingers. You have to be slow and patient. The only tools I needed were one of those tiny "watch" screwdrivers, and a pair of good tweezers. Remove all the visible phillips screws until the back of the camera case lets you know its ready to come off. Fit tolerances are almost microscopic, so it takes courage and care to see what you have to do to remove the front cover also (another screw or two). I practiced on the EBay LCD-broken camera first. Now, the batt door has a hinge pin that you can then pull out with tweezers, but first study the tiny door spring to make sure you know how it goes back. Withdraw the pin and capture the spring. Replace the door, and put everything back together in reverse. In the process I was careful not to touch anything in the camera that's electronic for fear of electrostatic discharge from my fingers that might "fry" something. Feel gratified for having beat the "not user serviceable" Kodak camera repair industry. Saved maybe $75, plus didn't have to buy a new camera.
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So far, I was able to find a camera like mine on Ebay that was being sold cheap for parts only, because the LCD was broken. I figure that this amounts to probably what I'd be paying if Kodak offered to sell me a replacement battery door (which they do not). Kodak only considers the wrist strap a "user-serviceable item." Maybe so, but I intend to try to fix this myself. If anyone has done this successfully before, please write. Otherwise, will let you know how it goes.
I followed the above instructions and fixed my camera, too. I also needed a flashlight and a magnifying glass ( I am older & my glasses need to be better.) I put the small screws in a bowl and wore disposable gloves-so I wouldn't "fry" any electronic parts. I also put down a white dish towel (for contrast and to pick up any dropped small parts.) It took me about 45 minutes. Cool!! 7/01/2011I followed the above instructions and fixed my camera, too. I also needed a flashlight and a magnifying glass ( I am older & my glasses need to be better.) I put the small screws in a bowl and wore disposable gloves-so I wouldn't "fry" any electronic parts. I also put down a white dish towel (for contrast and to pick up any dropped small parts.) It took me about 45 minutes. Cool!! 7/01/2011
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Kurt- I have successfully completed a d-i-y battery door replacement on my Canon A1100IS, and I make no claims about being an "expert." My training was watching u-tube videos of guys disassembling digital cameras (other models). Here's how to open the case on the A1100is, which is not really much different than opening the case on most any compact digital camera. Using a size #0000 phillips screwdriver (Sears sells a set of 6 minis--slotted and phillips--for $10), I removed the nine screws from the side and bottom of the case plus one inside the mini-usb cover and the one inside the battery compartment. Then, I gently worked the front and rear of the case apart (the top of the case halves have two snap clips that hold them together. Unlike some cameras, the A1100IS does not have any flexible cable straps between its front and rear covers. With the case halves removed, I then used a tweezers to move the straight end of the hinge spring out of its original place next to the tripod socket. That released spring pressure on the hinge and I could then easily remove the hinge pin with the tweezers. Then, it's simply a matter of placing the replacement door's hinge/spring combo in the proper location and inserting the hinge pin to hold it there. I purchased a new door from Canon for $8.42 plus shipping). Then, I used the tweezers to position the straight hinge spring end in the slot next to the tripod socket. The only thing left was to wipe my fingerprints off of the LCD screen and then gently replace the front and rear case halves--snapping the case's top together and then replacing the nine screws.
i have not replaced the battery door but have disassembled an S5000 following the service manual
it looks like once you complete the first step 'Removing the R CABINET ASSY' you can withdraw the hinge pin and replace the battery cover without any more disassembly [see attached image]
I had the same problem and found nothing online to fix it so based on what little I could find and some common sense I got it done fairly easily. Here's what I did...if you need more detail on any step either re-read it to see if you missed something or let me know 'cause maybe I missed something.
Standard warning - you are dealing with small screws, small parts and things that might break. If you damage your camera trying this repair - please don't blame me! <G>
1) remove batteries and memory card
2) carefully remove screws around the outside.
There are: 3 on the bottom, 1 under the plastic usb cover on the left side, 3 on the right side. Once those are out, remove the clip that holds the wrist strap and you'll find 1 more on the top of the camera under the wrist strap clip.
3) starting at the bottom of the camera, gently separate the back cover from the camera body. YOU DON'T NEED TO TOTALLY REMOVE THE COVER!
4) (note the small spring on the battery hatch - when you complete the next step that spring will come out so look at where it is, which way it is and don't lose it!) While holding the cover and camera body apart slightly, use a pair of fine needlenose pliers or possibly tweezers & slide the pin that holds the hatch in place toward the back of the camera until the spring and door come off. You don't need to totally remove the pin.
5) take your new door assembly and put it in place. the fun part is the little spring - the shorter end of it has to go through a small hole at the back of the hinge area, the longer end puts pressure against the hatch. Once the spring is in place, hold it there and slide the pin back into place (I found that just allowing the cover and body to come back together moved it into place).
6) try the hatch to make sure it opens/closes freely and latches
7) put the screws back in place - note that one of them is shorter than all the others - that one goes on the top of the camera under the wrist strap clip
Hope this helps!
Please note - this is the only digital I've taken apart so I'm not likely to be able to help with other makes and models but feel free to ask!
You could use a piece of velcro as a strap but I would start looking at ebay or other places for the parts to fix it. Sooner or later someone will sell it.
The battery door on these models just hooks under a wire next to the battery hole. They can pop off rather easily as they are a small piece held in place by a spring, essentially. You can often find the part on ebay for a few $ and snap it in place yourself. The same battery door is used by the XTsi, HTsi, STsi cameras. Its very possible that you did not lock it properly the last time you put in new batteries. Hold the door down while you turn the quarter as you lock or unlock it. Otherwise the pressure of the battery spring will prevent a good lock.
Unfortunately HP will not sell you a camera battery door. If you can find another camera that is broken with a good battery door you may have a chance.
To repair/transfer the new battery door, you will have to use a small jewerly store screw driver that you can buy at the dollar store and use it to push the door hinge bar to one side of the camera.
Then, pull the door hinge out but be careful not to lose the tiny spring that is installed in between the hinges. ( Make sure that you know and understand how to put it back the same way.) You can then pull the battery door from the camera.
Do the same thing to good camera. Practice on the broken camera first. The second time it should go easier for you. When you install the new battery door, push the hinge bar in all the way to one side of the camera. Hold the door to give you the proper alignment and then use the small screw driver to pry the hindge bar from the one side to make sure that it is equally in each of the black hinge connectors.
This worked for me. I was fortunate enough to find someone who had a broken HP MZ67 digital camera that had a "good" battery door. It took me about 30 minutes to complete the job. I hope this will help you. You can email me if you need more advice. I am a computer tech.
Steve ([email protected]).
Most cameras of this design have a small section of the battery cover that is broken and the hinge and case are in goof condition. Use an x-acto knife to remove the old cover. Do this by heating the knife over an open flame and cut away the side area facing the LCD screen. This is necessary due to the "snap-on" engineered fastener that is inside the hinge plate/battery terminal area. The hinge plate will not be damaged this way and will receive the new cover by simply sliding it on until you hear a "click" This is when the engineered fastener is engaged.
If you're handy, you can replace it in about 3 minutes. Don't attempt it unless you're willing to risk tearing a thin flexible circuit under the rear cover. Looking at the camera from the rear, remove the screws on the right hand side ( 2 ? ) then the screws across the bottom - open the card door, remove the card, and wedge a knife blade between the front and rear cover halves - the card door will be loose with an attached spring coming free. No need to remove the rear housing completely, just enough to expose the tracks for the battery cover hinge. Remove the old door, noting the position of the opening spring at the hinge, by angling one hinge out first. Insert the new battery cover and the card door in reverse order.
i have the same problem. if u find a solution...let me know
SUCCESS! My "parts only" camera from EBay arrived, and I was able to remove it's batt door. And was able to take to broken door off my camera, and replace it. Now, it's really small work, so I hope you don't have big fingers. You have to be slow and patient. The only tools I needed were one of those tiny "watch" screwdrivers, and a pair of good tweezers. Remove all the visible phillips screws until the back of the camera case lets you know its ready to come off. Fit tolerances are almost microscopic, so it takes courage and care to see what you have to do to remove the front cover also (another screw or two). I practiced on the EBay LCD-broken camera first. Now, the batt door has a hinge pin that you can then pull out with tweezers, but first study the tiny door spring to make sure you know how it goes back. Withdraw the pin and capture the spring. Replace the door, and put everything back together in reverse. In the process I was careful not to touch anything in the camera that's electronic for fear of electrostatic discharge from my fingers that might "fry" something. Feel gratified for having beat the "not user serviceable" Kodak camera repair industry. Saved maybe $75, plus didn't have to buy a new camera.
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