Main oven door will not close properly. Is there any adjustment for it.

If you have already replaced the Hi-Amp Door Switch on your GE Range Oven (Model: PS968SP1SS), but the oven light still will not turn off, there are a few additional steps you can take to troubleshoot the issue:

1. Check the light switch: Ensure that the light switch is functioning properly. It is usually located near the oven door frame or control panel. Press the switch manually to see if the light turns on and off. If it is not working, you may need to replace the light switch.
2. Inspect the light socket: Examine the light socket for any signs of damage or corrosion. If the socket appears to be damaged, you may need to replace it.
3. Verify the wiring connections: Check the wiring connections between the light socket, the Hi-Amp Door Switch, and the main control board. Ensure that all connections are secure and properly connected. Loose or faulty wiring can cause the light to stay on.
4. Test the main control board: As you suspect, a faulty main control board could also be the cause of the issue. You can try resetting the control board by turning off the power to the oven at the circuit breaker for a few minutes and then turning it back on. If the light still does not turn off, it may indicate a problem with the control board that requires replacement.

If you have performed these troubleshooting steps and the light still won't turn off, it would be advisable to contact GE customer support or a qualified technician for further assistance. They will be able to diagnose the problem more accurately and recommend the appropriate solution.

open the door and readjust them using a philips head screw driver.....

LInk to answer:
How to Fix an Oven Door That Will Not Close Properly

seems like your primary switch isn't closed correctly or it might bad.
step to trouble shoot
OVEN HAS 5000 VOLTS MOVING INTO IT PLEASE BE CAREFULL
1.press back key to turn off the oven.
2.Open left side pannel.
3.press 'back' and 'enter' key together.Then, enter 9428 and then press enter.
4.You will be directing to an testing screen.At the bottom of thetesting screen there are many alphabets.In which you can see 'P' ,'S' and 'M' .
5.Open the door and watch what happened to alphabet 'P'.I meant to say that when door open alphabet will highlited ,and when closed its seems an regular 'P'
6.open door and close the door .And also keep an eye on the primary switch at the top left corner of the oven where the door latches engaged.If it engaged very nicely and you still see an highlited 'P' in the testing screen then REPLACE THE PRIMARY SWITCH OR IF SWITCH IS OKAY THEN CHEK THE WIRING UPTO MAIN BOARD.
7.If switch doesn't latches properly then adjust switch ,by lossning the screw and aligned it properly.
PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF YOU KNOW HOW TO USE MULTIMETER,SO I CAN EXPLAIN YOU HOW TO CHECK THE SWITCH.
ALSO PLEASE RATE MY ANSWER.
THANKS

I had a problem similar. The bottom oven stopped working and the left hand set of controls and clock died. I had three figure quotes for repair. I took the main control unit out from behind the switches, its a pain to do. I took pictures of where the wires went to save confusion later. I removed the main switch unit from the control unit by gently pushing back the inbuilt plastic clips. dont loose the small white connector piece on the end of the switch shaft. I gently pulled the switch knobs from the front then the knob extensions through the same holes. once the unit was out I turned it upside down I could see where two solder tracks on the circuit board had burnt out. I gently cleaned them up and bridged the gap with two short tinned pieces of single core wire I had stripped. I used a soldering gun as it gets really hot really fast and wouldnt damage the components underneath. the only fiddly bit when putting it back together was locating the bottom edge of the control unit in the little gulley, I had to bend the edge of the gulley down to make it easier. Once it was all back together it worked. Half an hour and I saved £300! Now I have to fix the hinges on the bottom oven door as it doesnt shut properly at the top. Any ideas anyone?

If ther is notjhing obstructing the door from closing poroperly, then it sounds to me like the hinges are the cause of the problem again.
Make sure there is nothing trapped at the bottrom of the door, and that the hinge/s are not loose.
If it is leaving a small gap at the top of the door, then I think your only option is to replace the hinges again, as there is no adjustment possible of the hinges.
Hope this assists you with your problem

These hinges are now obsolete and you cannot get them anywhere. The poblem with this type of hinge is not with weak springs or anything like that, it is with the pivot pin in the door hinge. Follow these instructions and it will not cost you anything for the repair.
It is best to remove the oven from the housing. Remove both sides of the oven panels, you have to remove the top first, then the sides (remove about 20 screws all together). Support the bottom oven door first by tying a bit of string between the bottom and top oven door hand rails. This will stop the door falling down when you remove the springs. unhook the springs and the door will just slide out. (Use a loop of string attached to the back end of the spring to pull it from its holes.)
Dismantle the door by removing the screws. You will probably find that the the hinge pivot pins have come away from the U shaped hinge bracket. The secret is to make sure that these are fixed firm back into the bracket. What I did was to nip the U hinge bracket in a vice, (or use pliers) so that the pin will now protude slightly each side of the bracket. This allows more surface bearing area so the pin will not pull itself out of the hinge. To further make sure, I glued the ends of the pin with epoxy resin.
Then reassemble.
My door now feels like a new one even though it is 15 years old.

turn off the main power outlet it will work.

The hinges cannot be adjusted, the only solution is to replace both hinges.
Plz rate my comments.
Thankyou..

Hello. Usually this problem is related to the pilot being dirty, and not heating the bulb for the safety device properly/hot enough to fully open the valve. If you have a general purpose mini torch you can heat the metal bulb near the pilot with it, if this is the problem, the safety will open, and the main burner will come on. CAREFUL, you are not on/around the main burner, as it will allow gas to come on to the main burner, and if your pilot is not working properly, might not light the gas. Get the pilot cleaned and adjusted.

or... :) I know... your safety has failed, allowing gas to the pilot, but internally is not opening, this requires replacement. Last though, it could be your thermostat, its last in line, and would require replacement. The safety, and the thermostat are mechanical valves, open or closed depending on its function.

If you have a more current type, they will have a combination valve, and thermopile/thermocouple that are electromechanical, your thermostat at this point can be either mechanical, or electromechanical. This system has a few more possible causes for your symptom.
You can tell which you have by how you light the pilot, have a red button on the front of the unit, by the on/off valve? this is the first type.
Have to open a small door to access a knob, turn it to pilot, and hold in? this is the latter type.
ask if you need more help.
Hope that helps, and thank you.