If it works on gas and NOT electricity then the heating element is not getting power or the heating element is open. The heating element is located on the tubing just aft of where the pilot flame is on the bottom of the copper tube. You should check for power to the heating element and with power off perfom a continuity check on the element. I really do not at this time think you have a heating element problem.
There is a 120VAV element a AND a 12VDC element. The chances of both of these failing at the same time is pretty slim.
There is a note in the manual:
If the gas only pushbutton is depressed the
lamp will illuminate green and the refrigerator
will only operate on the LP gas mode, even if q
120 or 12 volts are available.
Another significant change in the third
generation A.E.S. system is how the 12 volt
heating element mode operates. As with the
first and second generation series, the 12 volt
heating element circuit is energized by the
ignition lock terminal. This terminal receives
its DC voltage from a wire that runs from the
run side of the vehicle’s ignition switch to the
refrigerator’s ignition lock terminal. This
allows the 12 volt heating element to be
energized only when the RV is traveling down
the road.
When the ignition lock terminal is energized
by the ignition key, the printed circuit board
must see at least 13.3 volts DC for a period of
40 seconds before the system will activate the
12 volt DC heating element.
If 13.3 volts is not achieved in this time frame,
the electronics will light the LP gas burner and
the refrigerator will operate on the LP gas
mode.
LOWER THAN 13.3 V.D.C. =LP Operation
If the battery voltage remains low after the
delay cycle, the automatic controls will light
the refrigerator on the LP gas mode and stay
on the gas mode until the printed circuit board
sees approximately 13.3 volts DC to the
terminal block.
For proper cooling on the AC mode, the AC
voltage to the refrigerator should not vary
more than 10 percent from the voltage rating
on the heating element. Heating elements used
in Dometic refrigerators could have a rated
voltage of 110 volts, 115 volts or 120 volts AC.
Because of this, the power requirements for
each differently rated heating element will
vary. For example, if a heating element is
rated for 100 volts, the acceptable power range
would be between 99 to 121 volts AC. If an
element is rated for 115 volts, the acceptable
power range would be between 103.5 to 126.5
volts AC. If the heater is rated for 120 volts,
the acceptable AC power range would be
between 108 to 132 volts AC.
The unit to operate on either AC or DC must have 13.3 volts to the unit. I think this is where your problem lies in that the battery voltage is less than 13.3 VDC
If all of that checks good just repsond here and I will help you. There is still more that can be checked.
Thanks for choosing FixYa.
Kelly
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