I get two codes , dL and F. I cleaned the filter but stil get both codes. Thanks

You have given us a lot of information, but have not told us what you expect of us. Also, you have put this post in the Optics forum, but I can see no reference to any optical equipment in the post.

It says Contact service center if you removed the water filter and the error is still coming up.
They refuse to give a better answer than just to let it be repaired by them.

You need to reset the filter timer. Press the "options" button, then "3" for filter timer, then "start". The filter timer should now be reset and you shouldn't see it say clean filter anymore. Hope this helps.

You did oxygen sensors at 100,000 miles

No exhaust leaks

No intake or evap leaks

Changing parts doesn't answer the question
Do you have ignition misfires

Egr problems

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
2 things- 'DL' and 'smells!

'DL' stands for 'Door Lock (Error)' indicating that there is a problem either with the door lock or the door locked sensor requiring another service call, sorry ;-0(
I CONSIDER IT DISGUSTING THAT THE SO CALLED GENTLEMAN WOULD NOT ATTEND TO THE 'DL' AT THE SAME TIME. THAT MEANS IT WILL COST YOU A DOUBLE VISIT.

Smells
Bad odours could be coming from a few places.

1. the plumbing u-bend of the washer's room or
2. the fact that there is 'foul' water being left in the drum.
3. No washes at 90 degree+ !

I would suggest checking the plumbing u-bend for trouble first, then following the notes on checking and cleaning the drain filter and the drain pump to ensure there is nothing 'obnoxious' hanging around the two of them! Finally run the occasional 90+ wash, or use specialised lower temperature powder/fluid, to kill bacteria.
Here are my complete and general guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.


If these have assisted and/or clarified the situation for you please consider a 4 thumbs up on our rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

check oil straner inside oil pan clean the filter and check if stil. you should replace crank bearing. and con-rod bearing and (oil pump ) you can start by replacing con- rod first .

After doing the cleaning did yall unplug the washer for a few minutes to clear up the code?

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

clean water pump filter of foreign objects,99xout of 100 that is the problem

It is a 54.00 dollar part that locks the door

DL means you have a draining problem.
Clean filter, drain and or pump