Front power switch broken. Bezel won't come off easily. Thought we could just get a switch and install on the back but don't know which of the colored pairs of wires go to the original switch in the front. Thanks for your help.

The rear blower motor switch and the rear floor console switch bezel are serviced only as an assembly.

1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the rear floor console.

Rear Blower Motor Switch

1. Remove the rear floor console switch bezel by releasing the retaining tab located at each end of the switch bezel and pushing it out through the front surface of the console.
2. Disconnect the wire harness connectors from the rear blower motor switch and the rear heated seat switches.
3. Remove the rear heated seat switches from the rear floor console switch bezel by gently prying the switches free from the back of the switch bezel.

INSTALLATION

1. Install the rear heated seat switches into the back of the rear floor console switch bezel. Make sure that the switch retaining tabs are fully engaged to the bezel.
2. Connect the wire harness connectors to the rear blower motor switch and the rear heated seat switches.
3. Install the rear floor console switch bezel into the rear floor console by pushing it in through the front surface of the console. Make sure that the bezel retaining tabs are fully engaged to the console.
4. Install the rear floor console.
5. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

It sounds like either the push button assembly is broken on the front bezel cover, or the power switch is broken. Follow these steps to take the covers off.

Front Bezel: http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/insp620620S/Insp620/en/sm/bezel.htm#wp1181855

Side access cover: http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/insp620620S/Insp620/en/sm/cover_re.htm#wp1193123

Now look for either a broken piece on the bezel push button assembly or a broken power switch inside the computer case.

Obvious stuff: Check main power source. Is the dryer plugged in? Do other electrical things work when plugged in to the outlet? If not, check fuses or circuit breakers. If good, is the timer/cycle control out of the "Off" position? Try several different settings.

Door check: Is the door safety switch closing? If it is or if you don't know if it is, and if you can get to the switch, you can take the wires off the switch and connect them together with a jumper wire ( unplug the machine before you do this!). With the wires clear of any metal, plug the machine back in, then press the start switch (you can leave the door open). If the machine starts, the door switch is defective.

Sound check: Do you hear a motor running when you press the Start button? Listen carefully; electric motors are very quiet. If the motor is running, your drum belt is probably broken or has come off the idler pulley. If you can take the front (sometimes the back) off the machine, this is an easy fix. Just put the belt back on the pulleys and around the tumbler drum, Note: there is a reason the belt came off if it's not broken. Look for loose or damaged pulleys or springs, including on the motor.
Do you hear a hum without the motor running? If so it indicates wearing of the motor bearings, brushes or the stator. Brushes can usually be replaced easily, but other motor problems require professional repair or replacement.

Smell check: Any unusual odors when you try to start the machine? A hot rubber smell means belt trouble. Check the belt as above. An electrical burning smell means motor or other electrical failure. Call a repair man unless you know what you are doing.

Electrical check: If you can read an electrical schematic (usually on a sticker inside the dryer cabinet or in the owner's manual) and you can use a multimeter, check continuity in the timer/cycle control, relays and switches. If you don;t understand electricity, don't mess with it! It can kill you, especially if your dryer power is 220VAC.

Important: When removing a door trim panel or switch plate, disconnect the negative battery terminal. This will eliminate the possibility of shorting out the switch if you use a screwdriver, an awl, or other metal object in order to remove the switch from the harness.

Remove the window regulator handle, if equipped. (manual windows only)
Remove the front door warning reflector.
Remove the door panel screw (1) through the hole in the door warning reflector opening.
Use a flat bladed tool in order to remove the rear deck release switch bezel.
Disconnect the rear deck release switch.
Use a flat-bladed tool in order to remove the lower switch bezel trim screw access cover.
Remove the lower switch bezel trim screws.
Remove the lower switch bezel trim panel.
Use a flat-bladed tool in order to pry the front door switch bezel upward.
Disconnect:
Power door lock switch connector, if equipped.
Power window switch connector, if equipped.
Power mirror switch connector, if equipped (left side only).
Gently disengage the front door trim retaining clips and remove the door trim panel from the door.

Reverse procedure to install

The On/Off switch is mounted inside of the Case Front Bezel. It is
very unlikely that it is broken. The problem is the front bezel
plastic switch (which is not really the switch) is more like a cap or a
knob that comes in contact with the actual switch is somehow broken.
You can remove the front bezel to see I am talking about.
Manually push On/push Off on the actual switch and your system will turn
On and Off like it should.

If you can wind your pocket watch using the crown, but you cannot see any way of setting the watch, you probably have a "lever-set" movement, though it's possible you might also have a "pin-set" movement. Do you see a little button you can push in, either at 1-2:00 or 10-11:00 on the watch case? If you, you have a pin set watch. Push and hold that little button in while you twist the winding crown, and that will let you set the time. End of problem.

Setting the time on a lever-set watch is a bit more complicated and will require taking off the front bezel of your pocket watch--the metal ring that holds the watch crystal in place. Pocket watch cases of this time are usually made in 3 pieces: the bezel, the main case body, and the back. The procedure used to remove your bezel depends on the type of watch case you have.

Take a close look at the front of your pocket watch. Do you see any hinges at the bottom (that is, below 6:00 and where the bezel meets the main case body)? I suspect that you won't, as double-hinged cases are usually associated with an older style of pocket watch, but it's worth checking. If you do see little hinges for the FRONT (it's more likely that the back will be hinged), then look for a little lip on the bezel that's used to pry open the front. Pull on that to open the case.

If you don't see hinges, which is what I expect, your front bezel unscrews. You can try to do this with your bare hands, but it's a lot easier if you have a bit of "gripping" rubber so your hands don't slip so badly. I have a small rectangle of shelf non-slip stuff that works perfectly for this. Turn the bezel counterclockwise. It may resist a little bit at first due to accumulated dirt, but then it should easily screw off.

Once you have the bezel away from the face, look closely at about 2:00 on the watch dial. Just at the edge of the dial, you should see a little lever or button. GENTLY pull this away from the watch face until it stops. Now, when you turn the winding crown, you should be able to set the time. Once the time is set, gently push the lever back to its prior position. Now, you should be able to wind the watch without changing the time.

Be very careful when screwing the bezel back onto the watch body. These parts typically have very fine threads, and it's easy to cross-thread the pieces. Don't force the two pieces together; once the threads catch properly, the front bezel will screw on easily without resistance.

An older style of pocket watch required the use of a little key to set the time from the back of the pocket watch movement. However, these watches were also wound by the same key, so the fact that you're able to wind this watch with a crown suggests to me that your watch doesn't use this system.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Important: When removing a door trim panel or switch plate, disconnect the negative battery terminal. This will eliminate the possibility of shorting out the switch if you use a screwdriver, an awl, or other metal object in order to remove the switch from the harness.
2. Remove the window regulator handle, if equipped.
3. Remove the front door warning reflector.
4. Remove the door panel screw (1) through the hole in the door warning reflector opening.
5. Use a flat bladed tool in order to remove the rear deck release switch bezel.
6. Disconnect the rear deck release switch.
7. Use a flat-bladed tool in order to remove the lower switch bezel trim screw access cover.
8. Remove the lower switch bezel trim screws.
9. Remove the lower switch bezel
10. Use a flat-bladed tool in order to pry the front door switch bezel upward.
11. Disconnect:

1. Gently disengage the front door trim retaining clips and remove the door trim panel from the door.

Installation Procedure

1. Install the front door trim panel to the door. Ensure that the retainers are locked into place.
2. Connect the rear deck release connector.
3. Install the rear deck release switch bezel. Press the bezel firmly into place.
4. Install the window regulator handle to the door.
5. Connect:

• lock switch connector, if equipped.
• Power window switch connector, if equipped.
• Power mirror switch connector, if equipped.

1. Install the front door switch bezel assembly to the front door trim panel.
2. Install the lower switch bezel trim panel. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
3. Install the lower switch bezel trim screws.
4. Install the lower switch bezel trim screw access cover.
5. Install the door trim panel screw (1) through the hole in the front door warning reflector.
6. Install the front door warning reflector.
7. Connect the negative battery cable.

This is very common problem with this series, the plastic actuator is broken off, very cheaply made and poorly design part.
I have lo luck locating this 5-button plastic switch assembly yet.
Be real carefule when separating the front bezel from the bac cover, it has very small ribbon cable attached to the front panel switch assembly that can easily be ripped apart.
http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums

We purchased a door latch to replace ours from Dodge. It came with instructions as follows:

Instruction Sheet

Front Door Handle/Bezel Replacement for LH

1. Remove the front door trim panel using the procedures outlined in Section 23 of the appropriate service manual.

2. Place door trim panel on a clean work surface. Drill the mounting bosses' heat stakes, which attach the existing door handle/bezel to the panel, with a 21/64-drill bit. Take extra care to only drill in the center of each heat stake.

3. Remove existing handle/bezel from trim panel.

4. Clean the back of the trim panel of plastic fillings.

5. Seat the new handle/bezel into location.

6. Place the push nuts onto the handle/bezel bosses.

7. Use a 10 mm socket to install the push nuts all the way down on the mounting bosses to secure the handle/bezel onto the door trim panel. Using a wiggling side-to-side motion may be helpful.

8. Install the lock switch from the original handle/bezel to the new door handle/bezel.

9. Reinstall the door trim panel using the procedures outlined in Section 23 of the appropriate service manual.

Hope this helps.

The Front Bezel DOES NOT contain the On/Off power switch. If you remove the side cover of the computer and look behind the Bezel, you’ll see a green bracket which contains the power switch. Don’t know the part number but here’s the link to your model:
http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dim2400/en/sm_en/index.htm
Just out of curiosity, what is the problem you’re having and what are the symptoms?
In 5 years of doing warranty home service for Dell I found only 1 power switch to be actually defective.


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