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I removed the chassis from my Mitsubishi DLP in search of the notorious "puffy caps", supposedly on the DM. On the newer Model WD-65833 there is no specific DM board. The first board you encounter is the PWB Terminal (Power board), followed by the PWB Main (located within the metal box) board. ALL the capacitors on both boards look normal. There is some cream paste on the PWB Power board on three of the capacitors (on one side, so I'm guessing intentional), I'm hoping this is normal; any suggestions?
Hi, I have a WD62627 that had the green blinking light of death and just shut off completely after resets. So I am replacing the power supply caps since two measured open on an ohmmeter. I am waitng for parts now but wonder if there is any thing else I can do besides use a whole can of compressed air to clean everything. Hi,
I have a WD62627 that had the green blinking light of death and just shut off completely after resets. So I am replacing the power supply caps since two measured open on an ohmmeter. I am waitng for parts now but wonder if there is any thing else I can do besides use a whole can of compressed air to clean everything.
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had white dots on mine as well i changed the dlp chip and put it back together and got the white vertical lines i decided to check all connections and make sure the chip was locked in correctly
it was not locked in securely i reassembled and now problem solved picture looks brand new so always check connections before assuming its the dmd board
The DM boards for that chassis are almost impossible to find if they are still good. Have you tried replacing the caps on the DM board that you have? Thats usually whats wrong are bad caps.
Green blinking light of death on Mitsubishi DLP TV means that the DM failed to booted up. I would advice you to replaced the 7 1000uf electrolytic capacitor on the DM board. Most of the time it fixed the symptoms. Please inquire at tvrepairworld.com if they have an available DM repair kit for V36 chassis (WD-57733 chassis).
I just had this happen to my wd-65833. It is a faulty dlp chip (they call it dmd board). I called Mitsubishi and they covered the cost of the part but there is a $200 service fee for the technician, no they will not send it to you. Support Service Mitsubishi TV
You have the V26 chassis with it's notorious problems caused from leaky capacitors. The fix for this is a multitude of capacitors replaced on the DM board, FMT board and the power supply. The right thing to do is to call Mits consumer relations @ 1-800-332-2119 with model, serial and date of purchase and they should be willing to make a concession for discount on a new Mits DLP. That's your best bet. This TV will continue to haunt you otherwise.
ok.
#1. replaced capacitors on power board. DM board FMT board .
# 2 on power board you need to chek caps. 3300mf x 35 v.QTY 2.
# 3 12 capacitor 1000mf x 16 v.
If caps 1000mf x 16 v . looked good. replaced anyway......
You will need to remove the entire chassis block as outlined in the manual. DM stands for digital board. It will be listed in the manual as PWB DM its sandwhiched in between other boards inside the chassis . Which is actually a metal box that will need to be disassembled then each board removed to get the DM . The DM is usually the bottom board. I dont have access to the WD65833 sertvice manual, but I am famillar with it. The DLPs are all simallar the entire Chassis block needs to be removed. Hope this helps if you need more info, let me know.
its an easy repair however i would recomend not even attempting the repair without the service manual as the DLP chassis is completely incased and you will need the info just to get the chassis out , That will explain exactly how to disassemble. once disassembled there are 4 100uf capacitors that are causing the problem. If you would like the full service manual for your set let me know and I will post a link where you can get it emailed and they will provide free support to help you do the repair.
The WD62825 has a Digital Module located on the left side of the chassis looking at it from the rear of the set. It's housed in a metal box that can slide out of its holder after removing the trim screws.
The module has its own power supply board and there are a group of 16v/1000uf caps on that board which commonly fail causing the constant flashing standby light. Further back on the module is a small board about the size of a matchbook called the E2P module. Its SMT (Surface Mount Technology) caps also commonly fail which can cause the same symptoms. Techs can tell whether the E2P has failed by simply removing it, hooking the DM back up and trying to power the set. If it powers on the picture won't be much good - but at least you can tell what's keeping it down...
Back to the caps on the pwr board. If they've failed they usually will buldge visibly on top. And ESR is almost not necessary. In any event that's the nuts and bolts on this model.
Is it a job for a layman? Yes and no - you might strongly consider a tech if you don't feel comfortable removing all the connections that the DM has with the signal board. There are about six - multi-pin - wired connections to unplug and then sliding the DM out of the unit and carefully removing the screws and latching to take the DM top cover off...
Hope this helps.
Bill
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