I have been using my serger then suddenly it would cut and not serge. I am still unable to thread the "green" right hand threader.

Sergers are absolute "bears" when threading compared to sewing machines. If/when you get frustrated, walk away. It took me the majority of one day before successfully getting my first serger threaded properly. Using four different color threads is also helpful when learning the serger--especially when it comes to adjusting the tension.

It is very important to pay attention to the order the threads are threaded, as well as making sure the thread path for each is correct. (Consult your owner's manual as different brands will look different.) Most machines require that the upper looper be threaded BEFORE the lower looper because the lower looper thread will cross OVER the upper looper thread as the final step before going under the presser foot.

ALWAYS RAISE the presser foot when threading!!! This releases the tension disks.

Also, when threading through the tension disk, be sure to give the thread an extra little tug to make sure the thread seats firmly in the tension disk. (Grasp the thread just below the thread stand with one hand and then grasp the thread below the tension disk with the other hand and give a little tug--sometimes it will make a little popping noise when it seats.)

Start out with the tensions set at the midway point. From that point, you can test your machine to make sure it is serging properly. Then you can adjust the tensions to suit you or the project you are making.

If the either looper thread breaks or pulls out, remove BOTH looper threads and rethread from the beginning!!! Trying to finagle threading of only one thread will most often result in a machine that will not operate correctly. Just bite the bullet and rethread both threads (in the order specified in the manual).

I seem to have trouble using the tweezers to thread the looper eyes, so I use dental floss threaders instead.
floss threaders Google Search

One more hint: NEVER pull the thread out of the machine by pulling it UP through the machine. This could damage or wear the tension disks. Always clip the threads just below the thread stand, RAISE the presser foot, and then pull the clipped threads DOWN through the looper eyes and needles.

Be sure to clean and oil your serger frequently. This is very important to get the best performance from your machine. Use only fresh oil recommended by the manufacturer and apply only a couple drops each spot.

How to Thread Serger Overlock Machine How to Thread Serger Overlock Machine

Empisal Overlocker S4D User manual

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It is difficult to tell what exactly is happening with your serger.

First thing--make sure you RAISE the presser foot BEFORE you thread any of the threads. This releases the tension disks so the threads will seat properly. You may need to remove all the threads and rethread from the beginning, making sure you thread each in the proper order. Start out with the thread tensions set at the ideal setting--usually the halfway point between the high & low numbers. From there, you will adjust them to even up the thread tensions.

Are you actually trimming off some of the fabric as it is stitching? If so, you might try increasing the cutting width (moves the cutting edge further toward the right) so that there is more fabric caught within the looper threads. It also appears that the looper tensions may be too loose. Try tightening the upper and lower looper tensions so less of the thread loops don't fall off the fabric's raw edge.

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No you do not need the cutting blade to serge but you shouldn't have to remove the blade it you should be able to push the knob at base of blade inward or pull it outward to turn blade downward out of the way.

TUTORIAL - How to do a rolled hem on a serger - StitchCraft

http://stitchcraftonline.com/blog/?p=42 - 71k - similar pages Aug 5, 2009 ... One of my favorite uses for my serger is to do rolled hems. A rolled hem is were the machine folds the fabric under a tiny bit and then stitches it.

if the serger is new I suggest taking it back and tell them what the serger is doing.
there could be a mechanical problem with the serger or it could be out of time.

Rethread! Your lose looper has a "hidden" eye all the way to the left. You will find task easy with serger looper tweezers and serger looper Threader; however, if you turn hand wheel to the left, the lower looper will slide in that direction. Now you will see that "hidden" hole now. It takes practice, but you can still thread it without the extra tools! Hope this helps and if it does, I will get point for if you give me rating since I offer my time free to help others. Jimmy

Can you wind the lower cutting blade to the right to cut less fabric and therefore fill out the stitching? On most sergers the lower blade position can be adjusted sometimes with a little knob or dial. You need to raise the top blade out of the way first, usually you put pressure onto it to release the spring holding it up against the lower blade, then swing it up to do this. Then wind the adjustment on the lower blade and move it to the right to cut less fabric then test serge. Your manual should give you more specific information on this and should be your first 'go to".

I would adjust my looper tensions to suit the fabric and width of the stitch I'm trying to achieve so yes, the settings you've been given are average tensions but its okay to vary these too. From left to right, I'd set 4, 4, 4, 4 and test serge again and see if this pulls the looper threads in against the fabric if moving the blade hasn't tightened up the stitching.

Sergers are more variable than a straight stitch sewing machine so its okay to move tension knobs a bit, just turn each a half number each time you adjust, then test serge and look at the stitch formation. Your needles tension should be fine at 4, leave them alone.

I'd suggest if you can find one, go to a "Getting to know your serger" type class as there is lots of techniques such as seaming on a curve, turning right angles, both inside and outside and making rolled hem edges that are very helpful serger skills to learn along with making adjustments and troubleshooting. Or go to you-tube and search some of these techniques for videos. Also www.sewing.about.com is a great sewing resource and Debbie has pages on sergers/overlockers here too.

When I'm starting a new dressmaking project I will spend 10 mins on the overlocker/serger, changing the thread colour to suit the garment, then test serging and adjusting the stitch tensions to suit the fabric. I have 4 cones of thread each in white, black, beige, grey, pink and pale blue and these threads will give a suitable finish on most fabric colours and prints. Then there is wooly overlocker thread, this is a fluffy thread that you can use for rolled hems as the thread relaxes once stitched and "fills" out the closely stitched edge covering the rolled fabric edge and is another whole area of fun to try out.

Often I'll just use a three thread to neaten the raw edges of a seam I will press open. Or I will assemble a whole knit garment using the four thread stitch, so much faster then stitching seams, then neatening. Jersey knits and sergers are made for each other.

As an aside the D on your machine model would denote "differential feed" too - briefly differential feed is adjusting the amount that the two feed dogs move under the foot and means you can "hold back" the fabric as it is stitched (0.5), or "stretch" it out (1.5 or 2 setting). Really handy for loose weave fabrics that stretch as you serge them, you can compensate using the differential feed setting. And in reverse, you can create a "lettuce" or wavy edge by turning the differential feed up.

I hope that this helps you out with your Brother 1034D and hasn't just confused you. Good luck.

your machine should have a stitch length dial on the right hand side above the flywheel, it might have numbers from 0.5 to 3 or 4, higher number for longer stitch (effectively this moves the foot and feed dogs faster in relation to the needles to make the stitch longer).

If you have the Serge Pro SW432 that your enquiry is linked to and you have not used a serger before, then definitely get hold of the manual, you will need it. Sergers are very different to sewing machines - once you've mastered one, its easy, but there is a learning curve.

Firstly, ALWAYS extend the thread aerial up, you'll see loads of images of sergers sitting nicely with the aerial in the lowered position, great for moving them to avoid damage. But they won't work well, a serger seams at 1500 stitches per minute and the thread streams off the cones so you need to ensure there is a good clear feed via the aerial to the tension dials.

Buy good quality thread cones and keep it out of the sun and dust. Cover your machine when not in use (lower the aerial first). You could start with white, grey and black thread as this will cover a lot of fabric prints/colours etc. To change thread colour, you will need to cut and knot on the new thread for the two loopers (right hand side cones) - do this about 6 inches above the first thread guide, and then chain off to feed these through down to the needle plate, when you see the new colour come through okay, stop. Repeat the process for the needle thread or threads (3 or 4 thead depending on what stitch you are sewing) but stop chaining when the thread knot is above the needles. Stop, loosen these tension dials and pull the thread down, cut out the knot with scissors and thread the new colour through the two needles. Use threading wires if you have them, or tweezers. Pull both these and the two looper threads together under the pressure foot, lower the foot, turn your tension dials back to 5 and chain off. The thread sequence is important, mostly top looper, bottom looper, then needles, this is so much easier demonstrated than explained.

If you can find a classroom/shop offering overlocking user lessons, go take a couple, its well worth the money. Otherwise go to you-tube and watch all the videos you can search on sergers, threading, etc.

Good luck with your serger, please respond with 4 thumbs if this has been helpful to you. :-)

you don't say what make and model serger this is.

However, as a rule of thumb, set the blade to widest setting, then test serge and tighten up the top and bottom looper threads to encase the cut edge neatly. So you would need to turn the dials on the two right hand knobs to a higher number, just move each dial one number at a time and test serge again.

The other possibility is that the thread is not between the tension discs properly, so check your thread paths, when you pull on the thread below the tension dial, it should feel firm to pull.

I always test serge scraps when sewing a new fabric and adjust the tensions to suit it before beginning a new project as a lightweight fabric will behave differently to a heavy fabric.

Un-thread and then see if the machine will run without thread.

If not, it needs to go into the shop for repair.

If it does, refer to the manual. Or, the guide that should be printed on the inside of the serger's door.

Raise the thread antenna to it's highest position. Keep it at this position when serging. If lowered for storage, and threaded, be sure the thread does not tangle around the antenna arms.

Raise the presser foot.

Open/set the tensions to zero.

Raise the loopers to their highest level - there may be an indicator mark on the side of the serger to match with a mark on the handwheel to help with this.

Start threading from the right to the left; upper looper first.

After threading, reset the tensions to a medium number, lower the presser foot and stitch a chain to test the stitching.

Serge a scrap and adjust the tension as necessary.

Once you get the serger working as it should - don't run out of thread. Tie off, open the tension, raise presser foot and gently guide the new thread through the threading process.

When changing the thread or removing the thread to store the serger, cut the thread at the antenna, leaving thread tails for tying off the new thread.

If you do not have Nancy Zieman's "Serge with Confidence", you will find it much more informative than the average serger manual.

On rare occasions lint can clog the yubes on these sergers. One of the first things I do is thread the wire through in the opposite direction. It will sometimes push the blockage out. The other option is to use an air compressor and again blow the lint out from the opposite side. If this does not work take it to a service man.