As an electrician, this is a fairly common problem with any kind of fixture - not limited just to paddle fans. The problem is likely a loose connection in the ceiling box, or even elsewhere in the circuit, as the chance that both the fan and light failed at the same time is very slim. Since the fixture is a paddle fan - when it is operated it causes movement and is a dynamic load - as a opposed to a static load that a non-moving simple light fixture would present. The constant movement can loosen a connection over time. Before we go any further, operate any speed control / light switch on the fixture itself to make sure they haven't been accidentally set to the off position.
Shut off the power. Loosen the screws on the cover or canopy that that will allow access to the wiring compartment in the ceiling. LOOK for anything obviously loose. You may need to have someone hold the fixture once you remove it from the hanger to see the connections - or simply disconnect the fixture wires from the house wiring completely. There may be 2 or 3 wires besides any bare or green ground wire that supplies the fixture. Photograph or otherwise mark the wires before removing the fixture wires.
Turn the power back on, and use a tester (preferably a meter) to see if power is present on the ceiling box wires that supplied the fixture. If present, the problem lies in the fixture wiring or individual fan / light pull chain switches. Wires do not fail along unbroken lengths unless cut. They will fail at places they are joined together. There may be a wiring compartment in the light fixture that has a loose connection. Inspect for loose or bad connections with power off and continue testing as above until you isolate the bad connection.
If there was no power in the ceiling earlier when the power was restored, there is a break elsewhere between the power source and the ceiling box. You'll have to look in switch boxes and outlet boxes in the room and possibly adjoining rooms to find the loose connection. It may even be in an adjoining room's ceiling box, too. This is a labor intensive job - and can take some time to locate and repair. Take your time and only turn power on when ready to check for the presence of power.
Of course, you could call an electrician to do the work for you. I hope this was helpful - good luck!
Wow Steve I have learned so much fr your answer although 's different fr my problem of an outlet in my dining area (powers my microwave)that set-off the breakers and is somehow connected to the outlet in the kitchen on wall that powers my toaster oven.I re-set the breakers like before but no power this time.I have been without these outlets for months.(no $$ for an electrician) already chked the outlet in kitchen ,no loose connections or anything burned out,but haven't chked the behind microwave(bit heavy to move the buffet)I recently turned on the microwave to see and the scrolling letter lights came on briefly,I thought it had come back but then they faded.Does this mean ther's power there?!are meters expensive and what should I do next? Thank you for any help:)
The brief scrolling letters on the microwave indicate life. At one point, power came back to the microwave. This may have happened when turning on - or some time before that. When the power comes on, the electronics become live and specific components called capacitors (little battery-like devices) on the circuit board to charge up. They discharge slowly when not connected (like a spare battery in a kitchen drawer) and rapidly discharge when they are connected to the completed circuit. When you attempted to start the microwave, the circuit is completed and the capacitors were "connected" causing the display to illuminate briefly.
You may have luck by gently tugging the power cord (causes the outlet to flex slightly) to see if there's enough movement to allow the loose connection to connect again. If it does, the display will light up again. If it does so, then you can be nearly 100% assured that the problem is in the outlet with the microwave plug inserted.
Meters can be had for about $20 and up at hardware stores. The cheapest meter is much better than a continuity light and test light, but are more complex. Look for a model that will do voltage and resistance (or Ohms) testing. The Amperage tests are seldom used on these devices. The voltage range should extend beyond 250 volts for homeowners where 120 / 240 volt systems will be checked and over 400 volts for those with 240 / 380 volt systems are checked. A resistance range for audible low resistance values is a great help when working by yourself and being able to see the work and the meter at the same time proves difficult. Lastly, read and understand the meter manual. Learn how to use the meter correctly and safely before connecting it to a live circuit and relying on the results.
Some final thoughts.. Check for power at the circuit breaker's terminal screw. Make sure the the circuit breaker is securely seated and engaging the panel bus bar(s) and check for power on the terminal. If there is no power when switch is on, check the position of the handle by pushing it the OFF position and then back to the ON position. This is called the RESET procedure. If when switching from ON to OFF the handle feels "spongy", it was probably already in the tripped (MIDDLE) position. If it "snaps" to OFF it was probably ON already. In any case, if it was ON or TRIPPED before moving to OFF, you should feel it "snap" when moved into the ON position. Next, check for tripped GFCI and AFCI breakers if installed in the panel. These circuit breakers have a TEST button on them. Press them when found and make sure the handle snaps to the MIDDLE or TRIPPED position. Reset as described above after testing. A circuit breaker in the ON position should be providing line voltage (120). If it does not, it should be replaced. Lastly, look for a tripped GFI outlet(s) that usually serve the kitchen counter, bathroom and basement (and other places in the house). Most indicate when they are tripped - but some can FAIL without a trip indication. Press the TEST button and it should indicate a trip. Press the RESET button to restore power. If the TEST and RESET do not function as described, replace the outlet with a new GFI outlet. All GFI outlets, GFCI and AFCI circuit breakers should be tested MONTHLY to be assured of the protection they offer. Good luck!
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oven is not heating then you probably have a bad heating element in your oven. This is not that hard to fix yourself... Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly263 views
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