Its jerky & pulls badly to the right. I have the jet 3.

There could be a few reasons why your Poulan p3314 is hard to pull and jerky. The most common reason is that the spark plug is dirty or fouled.

This can happen if the engine is left to sit for a long period of time, or if it isn't used very often. Another possibility is that the air filter is dirty and needs to be replaced.

What could be causing your Poulan p3314 to be hard to pull and jerky?

The most common reason for a hard to pull and jerky Poulan p3314 is a dirty or fouled spark plug. This can happen if the engine is left to sit for a long period of time, or if it isn't used very often. Another possibility is that the air filter is dirty and needs to be replaced.

How can you fix a hard to pull and jerky Poulan p3314?

The best way to fix a hard to pull and jerky Poulan p3314 is to clean or replace the spark plug. If the air filter is dirty, it will also need to be replaced.
I hope this helps!

Wall outlet bad? Charger not turned on/plugged in right? Something disconnected? Bad battery connection? Blown fuse in chair or charger? Bad battery or batteries?

Hi mikewgolfer...
The jerky is kinda normal, because it is a two cycle engine with a short stroke piston.

Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting a bright blue spark at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and pulling the crank rope, if you are getting a nice blue spark then:
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the trimmer is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Note:
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
Please take time to rate me

Yes the air fuel mixture screw should be open at least 3 full turns
Especially if you use the big jet and lowered the needle clip position to the fouth from the top groove as instructed with the clip

i've installed several jet kits, and usually its 2 or 2 1/2 or 3 turns out on the air/fuel mixture screw.
Your not missing anything.

Best Regards
Big Al

Does it have an after market exhaust? what year is the bike is the 2003 not fuel injected not jets & carbs? is the air filter clean and the plugs good? bad service = bad mileage

Scott,

Sounds like the brake/motor/gearbox is worn out. In my experience, these motors will operate for about 3 years with an active person and then they need replacement. I usually replace these as a pair since the other assembly will wear out soon. Hope this helps.

Carb. needs cleaned, its starving for fuel and by choking it you reduce the air flow and increase the fuel.

Rate my answer witht the thumbs..........Thanks

the speed pod might be going out it regulates your speed

Bigger jetting (a higher fuel/air ratio) will not cause overheating. But an air leak between the engine and carburetor can cause overheating - and an erratic idle. Make sure the carb is correctly connected and there are no air leaks. An air leak could also be the cause of the popping that you were attempting to address by re-jetting.
Once any air leaks are corrected, adjust the idle mixture screw to attain the highest idle speed when the engine is at normal operating temperature. Then, use the idle speed screw to set the correct idle speed.
Finally, ride the bike at full throttle for a short time, pull the clutch and coast to a stop. Remove the spark plug and check the color; a tan or light brown color indicates correct jetting. Too light = too lean. Too dark = too rich.

The carb has serveral jets for different Rpm ranges. If you have a problem with one range, that specific jet is probably blocked. Idle jet, low jet, intermediate jet, high jet. some bikes have more. Sounds like a jet problem to me Run Seafoam cleaner in a couple tanks.