When installing an aftermarket 3" lift the instructions say to use the existing hardware. The kit has the new bolts, but no large washer to keep the bolt head from coming through the frame. I know the lift block is not suppose to sit on the old bushing. Where do I get a large washer?

1. Original control arm does not allow adjustment of caster and camber. caster and camber may be adjusted only by using adjustment kit ( gm # 15538596 ) Raise vehicle, and support under lower control arms.
remove and discard upper control arm to frame bracket bolts, nuts and washer.

2. remove large washers welded to upper control arm frame brackets. remove wield beads from upper control arm brackets. grind area smooth. install adjustment cans to bracket.

3. install bolt,adjust caster and camber to specifications by rotating bolt head.

The body lift is included to ensure the larger tires can cycle through the full range of suspension movements without touching anything. The nice thing is that lifting a Jeep Wrangler (TJ) is easily done in stages:
- A 1 inch body lift will allow you to easily clear a slightly larger tire than stock, very inexpensively
- A 2 inch suspension lift would allow another tire-size upgrade, and increase ground clearance as dollars allow

In the end, a 1" body lift, combined with a 2" or 3" suspension lift will allow you to fit a 33" tire under these Jeeps. This not only increases your actual ground clearnace under the axle by almost 3 inches, but those new springs will flex a lot better than the old ones, so your Jeep will be much more capable offroad.

Combine this simple lifting strategy with aggressive fender trimming, and you could stuff 35" tires under that rig of yours - that would be good for almost 4 inches of extra clearance (over stock) under the axles - but you'd want to look at upgrading those axles if you're going with a tire over 33".

Other Lift Considerations... running out and slapping on some pucks under your body tub might sound easy, but there is a bunch to consider before the wrenches start flying:

* Get replacement bolts ready - the old rusty ones will be tough to get out and you'll want new ones to install
* Make sure you use actual body lift components - some areas will not allow a Jeep equipped with hockey pucks as body mounts to pass inspections - don't laugh, it happenes every day
* Be ready to lengthen wires and control linkages as needed - going up 1 inch shouldn't pose a problem, any higher might. You'll need to fabricate longer shifter and t-case handles, and watch for any other items which need lengthening.
* DO NOT run a body lift any higher than 3 inches - even that's a bit much. All you are doing it raising the centre of gravity and rather than the lift blocks supporting the mass of the body (and you) vertially, the bolts now must carry the weight through the turns. Think of it - does it seem safe to have 6, 1/2" or so bolts holding roughly 2500 lbs worth of body tub and humans in place? Keep it to 1 inch if at all possible.

Don't forget, if you raise the suspension, you'll need to install longer trac bars to locate the axles and adjust or replace steering components to keep the angles of steering-related items within specs. A full, complete kit, will have everything you need. Be sure to double and triple check those trac-bars - there's two in TJ Wranglers - one for each axle. Their job is to located the axle under the Jeep - if you hear a clunking noise after the install, chances are the mounting or location bolts/nuts are loose. In general, these nuts/bolts cannot be tight enough. Re-check them periodically and after every two or three trail rides. As with any suspension changes, go get an alignment when you're done.

Visit this link to know details about 2003 JEEP WRANGLER TJ INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS BODY LIFT KIT

Hope this helps (remember to rate and comment this answer).

one for the colorado or the gmc canyon will work all the same seeing as it is all the same vehicle the only thing differant is on the isuzu i series where it has metric bolts instead of standard.. also you can create your own leveling kit by going to a hardware supply store ie: lowes/ home depot. you need to buy bolts, rubber pvc conduit approx 1 inch thick with a center hole big enough for the bolt to fit and a few washers. then cut/trim/and create your own level kit and all you need to purchase is a fuel tank extension kit so the resevoir still reaches the fuel pump access point..

dfsdfsd

before u do this look at the radiator hoses and the fan,the gas filler hose for the gas tank,the steering linkage,tranny linkage and the exhaust manifold,and the brake lines,tires might be over sized too.Because all of these had to be modified when the body was lifted, after u have looked at this an disconnected the necessary ones then and only then u can remove the lift kit,you will need a floor jack and a couple blocks of wood,start by find all your bolts for this you should find depending on the lift kit,neoprene spacers between your body a frame,u will have to go to the dealer to purchase rubber grommets and shorter bolts to replace the spacers,and bolts,u will be taking out , after u have done this start loosening the bolts have your jack ready so u can lift up the body just enough so u can get the spacer out,depending on size of truck u will have 6 to 8 bolts,if your lift kit is higher than 3 in u might want to get two jacks one on the front end and one on the back so u don't bend the body and put unnecessary stress on it and put your truck body down evenly,after u have removed the lift kit and put all your grommets and the new shorter bolts in then u get to reconnect all the things u had to undo at first,ie radiator hoses and the fan,the gas filler hose for the gas tank,the steering linkage,tranny linkage and the exhaust manifold, and the brake lines,tires might be over sized..hope this helps and good luck

best buy or most stores that sell new car radios sell wiring adapter kits that simply plug in to your existing harness. It is the easiest way to install an aftermarket radio

The easiest lift kit is the body lift kit. You install rubber bushings between the body and the frame. Some trimming of the fan shroud and adjusting the steering shaft. A good kit will have in instructions.

remove all connection bolts , clips. I then slowly pry the brakes as far from the rotor as posible ( depressing the brake cylinder) with tire tool or large screw driver, so the new thicker pads will go in with ease. Replace new pads acording to toyota and replace bolts/ clips. this method requires no bleeding of brakes.

hi there. I am not sure about the speakers. But there is a wiring harness available for a aftermarket head unit. I have a '97 sentra the base model XE version. I have just put in an alpine head unit and you defenately hear the difference even on factory speakers. But you will need 2 kits to install an aftermarket head unit in the car. 1. A dash kit. I got mine from canadian tire for about 20 bucks, it comes with instructions on how to put it together and its straight forward, just make sure u get the one for your year and make of car.

2. The wiring harness. there available at mostly every car audio place for about 10 bucks. again make sure u get the one for your year make and model of car. installing this is difficult so unless your good at electronics get it professionally installed. you have to splice the wires into the back of the aftermarket unit, then the plugs plug right into your existing factory car harness.

hope this solves your problem, the dash kit is easy to put together and install into the car, but the wiring harness is a bit difficult, i had my harness installed for about 40 bucks and u save money if u put the dash kit togehter yourself because thats 1 less thing they have to do. good luck.

Doesn't matter, I have given up, the existing central locking components are completely different to that of the new kit, I think I will just have to put my tail between my legs and go genuine, getting a Nissan dealership to fit it for me.