Not sure how to wire my Tork 1103 timer

I think you have 120Volt pool pump.
Add a comment if this is incorrect since wiring information is based on this assumption.

(1) Wiring problem:
Evidence shows timer is wired in reverse (dial only rotates when pump is ON, and dial stops rotating when pool pump is OFF)
Electrician reversed the wires, but wires need to be tested.
Hot wire from circuit breaker always connects to L
Neutral wire from breaker box connects to unmarked terminal.
This will give clock motor continuous power.
Next:
Black wire going to Load (pump) connects to X
White wire going to Load connects to unmarked terminal along with Neutral wire.

Tork 1103 is SPDT timer with 3 watt 120volt clock motor that can control multiple loads and voltages, and can be wired many different ways.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Tork-timers-and-manuals.html#1101
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/1103INSTALLOP.pdf

(2) Loose dial. The dial should only rotate counterclockwise when moved with hand. The fact that trippers work when rotated by hand says dial is probably not problem. If timer is used, and trippers skip over and do not turn on Load (pump) then order P47 replacement trippers.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Tork-1102-3-500.jpg

T-103 has 120V clock motor with 5 terminals A 1 2 3 4
Tork 1101 has 120V clock motor with 4 terminals L 1 X 2

T103 is DPST and can control one-or-two 120Volt loads, or one-or-two 240Volt loads.
Tork 1101 is SPST can control one 120Volt load

Common ground between these timers one 120 Volt load
Changeover for one 120 Volt load:
White wires T103 terminal A go to Tork terminal X
Black wire T103 terminal 1 goes Tork terminals L and 1 (there is brass connector plate that connects L and 1 - if connector is missing, jumper between L and 1)
Black wire on T103 terminal 2 goes Tork terminal 2

If Load requirement is greater than T1101, Grainger sells T103 clock motor for $16
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/INTERMATIC-Time-Clock-Motor-1PNK1?Pid=search
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/timer-accessories/timers/electrical/ecatalog/N-8hi

How to wire T103
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html#T103
T1101 wiring manual
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/110111021103WIRING.pdf

Tork 1100 series

Tork 1103 can control 120V or 240V Loads (fan light motor)
It can control 1 or 2 different Loads
Tork 1103 has 5 screw terminals
L 1 Unmarked X 2

The Tork 1103 has a 120V clock motor that consumes 3 Watts and costs $3.50 per year to operate.
1) You have to have a white Neutral wire from breaker box connected to Unmarked terminal no matter if you are controlling 120V or 240V Load
2) You have to have a black Hot wire from breaker connected to terminal L no matter what load

If you have 1 Load 120V:
Terminal L black hot from breaker
Terminal 1 no wire
Unmarked terminal white neutral from breaker
Terminal X black wire going to Load
Terminal 2 no wire
White wire going to Load connects to Unmarked terminal
So 2 white wires are on terminal 2

If you have 2 Loads 120V (Load1 Load2)
Terminal L black hot from breaker
Terminal 1 jumper your black hot from Terminal 1
Unmarked terminal white neutral from breaker
Terminal X black wire going to Load1
White wire going to Load1 connects to Unmarked terminal
Terminal 2 black wire going to Load2
White wire from Load2 connects to Unmarked terminal
So 3 white wires are on terminal 2

If you have 2 Loads 240V
Terminal L black hot from breaker
Terminal 1 jumper your black hot from Terminal 1
Unmarked terminal white neutral from breaker (no other wires connect to this terminal)
Terminal X black wire going to Load1
White wire going to Load1 connects back to 240V breaker
Terminal 2 black wire going to Load2
White wire from Load2 connects back to 240V breaker



If you have more questions, add a comment and I will help

Here is Tork 1103 wired for single load.

1) The green pump wire and bare copper wire go to green ground screw
2) Pump black wire goes to pole 2, the NO (normally open) pole
3) Pump white wire goes to unmarked screw

4) Black from circuit breaker goes to pole L
The T1103 comes with a removable brass bar that connects pole L and pole 1
If that removable brass bar is not there, then add a jumper between pole L and pole 1 as shown in diagram above
5) White neutral from breaker box goes to unmarked pole (all whites connect to unmarked pole)

In your case, pole X is not used. Pole X is NC or normally closed > which means the power is ON continuously until timer turns on, and when timer turns ON, the NC pole turns OFF

Tork 1103 is mechanical timer with 125V 3 watt clock motor
Dial on front face rotates when clock has voltage
Dark and light colored pins connected to dial, and turn timer on and off
There is removable brass bar that connects poles L and 1

You have 4 wires:
Red >>> I'm not sure about this wire, is this Hot wire coming from tandem breaker?
Black >>> this is Hot wire coming from tandem breaker
White >>> this is Neutral wire
Bare ground

Test wires:
Please test Black and Red to bare ground to see if these are both Hot
Test Hots to white to confirm this is Neutral
Solution ASSUMES black and red are both Hot, and white is Neutral

You have 2 problems:
Prob 1) Clock does not rotate dial: so clock is bad -or- clock not wired correctly
Prob 2) You are able to control 4 plugs using manual override, which means load wires are correct
However, you want to wire timer 'without red wire' (which is confusing, since red wires are connected to outlets)


Solution Prob 1:
1) The diagram show the N or Neutral wire is connected to Unmarked pole on timer
2) Black Hot has to be connected to pole L
3) Unmarked pole and pole L must be wired with 120V as shown before dial will rotate
4) If wiring is correct and dial does not rotate, then clock motor is bad
5) If dial rotates, check outer rim of dial to see if you have dark and light pins for on-off functions
6) Notice that all the Neutrals connect on Unmarked pole

Solution Prob2:
Are you saying that the household wiring extends beyond the 4 plugs, so when you turn off the 4 plugs, it also turns off more plugs and switches farther down the line? If so, you need to wire plugs with separate hot wire.
Let me review features on timer which might help:
1) There is removable brass bar between poles L and 1
2) If brass bar is removed, then you need Hot wires on both L and 1... but you can jumper between L and 1 with short black wire
3) If brass bar is there, then one Hot connected to either L or 1 will power both clock and load.
4) Timer is DPST double pole single throw ... so you can control 2 different loads ... one load connects to Unmarked pole and pole X ... another load connects to Unmarked pole and pole 2

If brass bar is removed:
Jumper between poles L and 1 ... so only one Hot wire is used on your timer.

Below shows jumper on poles L & 1: hot to load is on pole 2

Tork 1103 controls 2 loads

Your wiring is OK ... if the dial rotates and the tripper turns ON the load, then your wiring is correct

It sounds like you forgot to put the OFF trippers on dial?? Or the OFF trippers are worn out.
Dark trippers = OFF
Light trippers ON

Look at the trippers up close ... as they arrive at the manual override, they make contact with a mechanical lever ... the motor then pushes the dial forward and the trippers flip the manual override lever on-and-off.

Is the manual override broken? I doubt it.
Are the OFF trippers worn down?

I assume this is the wiring diagram you have for your timer. I don't know what you're trying to control with this timer, but it has a 110V timer motor so it must have a neutral conductor connected. The L terminal would be your incoming line conductor (hot, usually black) The X terminal would be your Load terminal (usually black too) The unmarked terminal would be your neutral conductor. The incoming and outgoing neutral conductor would be connected here (usually white) If you're using this for 220V load, the hot conductor would be connected to the terminal marked 1 and it's load connected to the 2 terminal. Or you could use it for two separate circuits

If you look at your diagram, the neutral connects to the box with no number on it. This also supplies the nuetral to the timer motor. There is no need to switch the neutral conductor (white)
Connect line (incoming hot) to terminal L connect the load(black) out to the GCI on terminal X. Put both neutral white wires on the terminal with the square box.(this terminal should have the other timer motor wire already connected to it.

T1103 can be wired many ways.
T1103 has 240V clock motor.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Tork-timers-and-manuals.html#1101

You are connecting 240Volt pool pump to timer.
Open link below and see wiring diagram: look at bottom left diagram:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/110111021103WIRING.pdf

Electricians don't guess, they test.
Turn power off and separate wires for testing.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power.
Stand on dry boards. Wear dry clothes.
Do not touch anything metal.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
For 240V circuit, two different wires should light up tester. Working from your description, by code, these wires should be black and red.
Each of these wires is Hot wire.
These are called Line wires, wires going to pump are called Load wires.
Hot wires connect to terminals L and 1. This will power the clock motor and dial will rotate as time passes, assuming clock motor is good.

Hots are identified.
Test one of the hot wires to remaining wire, and not to bare ground.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire. This should be white wire.
Double check that Neutral wire did not light up on bare ground.
Neutral is not connected to any 1103 terminal.

Remaining wires go to Load (pool pump).
By code, assuming Hot Lines are Red and Black, the Red & Black Load wires connect to X terminal and 2 terminal, in either order. One wire on each terminal.
White wire connects to Neutral wire and is covered with wire nut.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

1) Clock motor needs replacement:
Link below shows timer and wiring manuals.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Tork-timers-and-manuals.html#1101

2) 120Volt Clock motor sells for $43 at Frontier lighting
http://www.frontierlighting.com/product.jsp?part=10431&process=search&show=&ID=,Photo.Cells...Time.Controls,Replacement.Motors

3) New Tork 1103 sells for $55. Just swap out insides without changing box.

4) Intermatic crossover for Tork 1103 shows Intermatic T103 timer.
Amazon sells T103 for $50
http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-T103-120-Volt-Mechanical-Switch/dp/B000LDIDBY

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.