LG LRE30755ST Kitchen Range Logo
Posted on Jul 28, 2010
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Monitor shows me f1 - LG LRE30755ST Kitchen Range

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  • Posted on Sep 10, 2011
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According to the LG30755 Service Manual an F1 error indicates a key short error. This can be remedied in several steps, the least expensive being the first: Unplug stove. Remove the entire back of the range and you will see a big printed circuit board right behind the rangetop controls. The keypad-tail is the wider of 2 ribbon connectors. Remove the keypad-tail and, after replugging in the unit (Be careful! Don't touch any connections with the power on and the backing off.) see if the F-1 recurs or not. If no recurring F1 then the manual says to "replace keypad or keypad assembly". If the F1 pops up again you can shut the power back down and remove the PCB and inspect main PCB connector (CN11) pin to pin. This means you have to look at the soldered pins on the back of the PCB at the keypad connector (which is labled CN11). If you are not familiar with PCBs (I had to teach myself to solder to fix my television not too long ago but I was motivated--I didn't want to pay to have it repaired!) and can resolder the pins if they appear cracked or damaged, then I would suggest just buying a new PCB online. It will cost about $140 delivered. Try AppliancePartsPros.com or PartStore.com. I've used both and have had great service. You'll probably get your part in 2 - 3 days even though they say it'll be 10 days. AppliancePartsPros has exploded views so you can eyeball an illustration of your unit to get the part number correct. The mfg part number of the PCB is: 6871W1N009A but even though the vendors may have their own part numbers you can search for the PCB under the number I gave you and it will show you the right thing. They'll probably just call it "PCB Assembly" but it'll be about $125 - $140. I've replaced mine TWICE! It will be the root of many problems: No keypad, oven too hot, oven not working, warming drawer not working, the list goes on and on.

I got my service manual from LG. For FREE! I called customer service and he sent me a PDF. This was the best thing I've ever gotten from any manufacturer. Anyway, I hope this helps you. It's been several months since your question was posted, but I just happened on this website today and thought I'd browse about a bit. If you still have your range try calling LG customer service. The Service Manual's part number is: 3828W5S6293. 'Course, if everyone had one of these for all of the products we purchase it might put some repair guys (and JustAnswer.com) out of business.

  • Anonymous Oct 12, 2011

    Thanks for this advice. My oven (LRE30755ST) displayed the F1 error after I did my first oven cleaning cycle. I see that many people have had this same problem and am wondering why LG didn't design the oven better so that it doesn't break right after cleaning it. I did the test as above and found that after disconnecting the ribbon cable from the "key membrane assembly", the error code went away and it wanted me to set the time. I ordered the key membrane assembly from AppliancePaartsPros.com and it was $56.03 and the part number is 383EW1N006H which was not specified above. Now my range is working perfectly and I even tore apart the old keypad to see if I could tell what failed (due to too much heat). I could not see anything that looked like damage and it will stay a mystery as to why it failed. Hope this helps some of you that have this problem.

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  • Posted on Oct 01, 2010
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Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


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