2.0 Farad Capacitor

Sounds like you are drawing more watts than the alternator and battery can supply!

If the Sony amp (I'm not familiar with that one) has its own crossover and subwoofer output, use that, and set your crossover point for what sounds best to you. Honestly, it is best to have a SEPARATE two-channel amplifier & crossover for the 10" subs. Whatever you do, make sure you use a large capacitor (2 Farad or more) at the power input of the amplifier for the subs. This will help prevent blown fuses. (It is also a good idea to use at least a 1 Farad capacitor at the power input of the amplifier for the other four speakers.)

first make sure your power wire is directly hooked to the battery, {make sure ure in line fuse is pulled} power wire that goes to positive of power cap , ground wire is grounded to chasis, now attach aditional power wire to amp and aditonal grond to amp . make sure all conections are solid and tight { also make sure inside of power cap is tight as well after long periods of time the insides loosen } i have 2 -1,000 watt sony xploid amps and 2- 1,200 watt sony expoid subs and they pound hard . i probley should have 2-1.2 farrid caps for what i have but it seems that its holding its own

Just to the left of the output (speaker) terminals, near the top of the amp, there's an LED marked "POWER/PROTECTOR". If the amp is connected properly and powered on, the LED is ON.

If the amp is being used for normal speakers, use a pair of RCA cables and connect the left/right channels to the appropriate inputs on the amp. The switch marked "LPF" should be "OFF".

If the amp is being used with the channels bridged for a subwoofer, use an RCA "Y" adapter and connect the single "Sub Out" preamp output from the head unit to both amp inputs. The switch marked "LPF" should be "ON" and the crossover set to about 80-100Hz.

What size subs are you running? Also what wattage are the subs that you want to use? Also what I would do is to start out with a smaller speaser just something like a 6x9. Just enough to hear sound. From there I would make sure that all cables and wires are hooked up accordingly. DO NOT BRIDGE CONNECTIONS until you have verified that you get sound out of each channel. I have a 1200 watt amp in my car and do not have a cap in it. It seems to be fine. The only thing that a capacitor is good for is if you decide to use you system with out it running.

Hello herb31,

Kicker lists the RMS power handling range of the CVR's from 100-500 watts, with a peak power capability of 1000 watts. There are lots of monoblock amps within that range. It just depends on how loud you want them and how much you want to spend.

In the low range, an amp like the Alpine MRP-M500 will deliver 250 watts to each sub at 2 ohms. And it only costs $179. Currently, the MRP-M500 is out of stock at Crutchfield. I just bought the last one. So my 2nd recommendation would be the Sony XM-1S, which has the same power rating and according to Crutchfield is no slouch either. It's also $179. I really like the Sony, too. It has a small footprint that makes it easy to find a convenient mounting location. Both the Sony and the Alpine are CEA-2006 compliant, so you can be sure that the manufacturer provided specifications are not overrated. Assuming that your vehicle electrical system can deliver the current, both the Sony and the Alpine will deliver an honest 250 watts RMS to each of your Kickers. And 250 watts will make them kick pretty darned good.

In the medium power range, consider either the JL Audio G Series G1700 which delivers 700 watts into 2 ohms. It costs $419 at Crutchfield. Or perhaps the Kicker 08ZX750 with 750 watts at a cost of $399.

To push the CVR's really hard, close to their 500 watt RMS maximum power range, look for an amp that delivers 1000 watts. In this range, you will definitely some heavy-duty wiring, electrical system upgrades, perhaps a 2 farad capacitor, and be ready to spend at least $600 on the amp. Your best combination of power and price would be another Alpine, the PDX-1.1000M, at $799. If you buy one from Crutchfield, they will throw in a 4-gauge amp wiring kit. And if you use a "friend referral code", such as mine, which is p7sdj-hrx8q-9800g, and your order is at least $200, you'll get another $20 discount. And I get a $20 credit toward a future order.

Hope this helps. If it does, please rate as "FixYa".

What's the battery voltage across the B+ and ground terminals of the amp when the engine is running?

Does the amp go into protect mode when the engine is running?

Are you sure the head unit is still producing output when the engine is running?

yes it will kill your batery u need aremote turn on man dont messa round with out one

try adding a capacitor to feed the amp. these are large in capacity (farads)and dims (about 6' x3' dia.)...what wire size are you using?

it might be that your wires from your amp to your subs are too thin. since they were relatively new the first three months, they were probably undamaged, but after pushing them too much, they probably have broken wires, and can't get enough power to the subs when turned up, i suggest getting thicker wires before investing in a capacitor, it could save you money.