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I have an Amana Frig. Model #ARB2214CC. Every summer with the humidity there is constant water on my floor. It is very dangerous for anyone walking by. I fear on falling. I have had technicians in the past and watched how they would use the blow dryer to dry up the inside water and ice built up on the freezer floor. They said to adjust the temperature. What is the correct temperature for a freezer and the food section as well. I will never buy an Amana again. I have a cheap GE frig in the cellar and have never had a problem with it. What do you suggest? I do not want to pay a technican each summer to defrost my freezer.
Good day, Well you'll need a service tech to correct your problem, but he'll need to be very savvy. It appears the auto defrost system is not getting the freezer coil hot enough and long enough to allow all of the condensent water to completely drain from the compartment thus backing up onto the floor of the freezer section. This will take 3 steps to be successful. First, it will be necessary for the tech to take a length of #14 bare copper wire. It should be wrapped around the main heater approx. 6 times. Very tight. the excess must be trimmed so that it fits into the drain hole as far as possible. This will add heat to the drain area. Best to remove the heater will installing the copper wire.
Second, the defrost thermostat which is clipped to the top of the cooling coil should be increased by at least 5 degrees. For example. If it is a 50 degree thermostat, it should be replaced with a 55 degree thermostat ect. This thermostat will not be available from amana. However, GE makes kitted thermostats in all ranges from 45 degrees to 70 degrees. The GE part numbers go like this. WR50X50, WR50X55 ect. The last 2 numbers are the temperature of that particular kit.
Third, after all is done, the machine will need to be unplugged with the freezer door open for a minimum of 24 hours. The reason for this, is after an extended period with this issue ice will build up in the back of the aluminum backing plate and drain pan. Failure to perform the last step is not an option in performing the repair properly.
If you can find the right guy, and have him read this solution, I would go with it. Otherwise your wasting your time. It's a nasty problem common on newer machines in an attempt to increase effeciency but many times creates more problems than it solves.
P.S. Changing the control settings will have nothing to do with your issue. Midrange on both controls should satisfy you, since that is where the engineers deigned it to be set for normal freezer and fresh food temperatures.P.S. Changing the control settings will have nothing to do with your issue. Midrange on both controls should satisfy you, since that is where the engineers deigned it to be set for normal freezer and fresh food temperatures.
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If you're finding puddles of water in front of the bowl ON THE FLOOR, then most likely your wax seal is leaking between the floor and the drain piping. You will have to disconnect toilet, remove water from toilet, remove toilet from floor. There is one other possibility, but not likely If it is just a small amout of water, it could be condensation. If your water source is cold (like well water in summer time) and it is hot and humid in your house sometimes toilet tanks sweat.
you obviously live in a high humidity area.(or you are putting warm/uncovered food inside) but the answer is yes,or you could collect the water to use on you indoor plants.........better than tap water...
Sounds like the door is not closing properly so humid air is coming into the fridge OR door not closing properly and the humid air is condensing around the door so it is leaking the condensation OR
The water from the defrost cycle is not evaporating so it overflows from the evaporator pan above the compressor. You better call a service technician before getting some floor damage (Do not call A&E)
do u have water draining on the outside wherever they ran the drain lines from each unit? if not , maybe they werent pitched correctly and are overflowing, those units have a tiny drain pan and must be pitched correctly on the install. Call a different contractor to check it out! And only during the summer because those units, as any AC does, remove a great deal of humidity, it isnt that humid in other seasons.
Does your locale have high humidity? If it does, there is no true way of stopping the build-up of frost (and ice). Unfortunately, water vapor condenses below the dew point (temperature at which vapor turn to liquid). This happens at higher temperatures in very high humidity environments. It is not as noticeable in the winter months when humidity is low, but the summer months are another story. Just like when you see water vapor on the outside of a glass of ice tea in the summer; you don't notice it as much in the winter months.
An electric dehumidifier includes a refrigeration cycle that is very similar to a window AC units and refrigerators. They cool the air in the basement to condense and collect water and remove humidity, heat the air as a required consequence of the refrigeration cycle and dump it back to your basement.
Two sources of humidity in basements include warm outside air that naturally cools due to below grade earth contact and water passing from the ground though the floors and walls and evaporating into the basement. Dehumidifiers do most of the work in the summer when higher temperatures outside enable air to hold more water content.
In the winter, cooler outside air contains less moisture by weight eventhough it may be raining and the relative humidity in basement will be less because the air is warmed relative to the outside. The lower moisture content in the winter also absorbs the water passing through the walls and floor.
From an energy perspective, you may want the humidity set NOT below 50%. This will keep humidity below the level mold desires, but prevents the dehumidifier from doing more work and eating more energy than needed. A cheap battery powered temp/humidy meter left in your basement will help. Sources that include the "mold triangle" (temperature, water & food) often separate fact from expensive hype.
If the dehumidifier doesn't keep up, consider adding a moisture barrier to the basement walls and floors such as Dry-lock and floor paints to ****** moisture entry. Moisture barriers act very similar with water as insulation does with heat. They don't eliminate the need for a dehumidifier, but they reduce the work they do and energy they eat.
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