50mm C lens issue

These are unrelated issues.

The FEE means that the lens isn't locked at its minimum aperture. Turn the aperture ring on the lens to f/22. You can control the aperture from the camera body, the same way as with a lens without an aperture ring.

The r07 simply indicates how many shots you can take in the current burst before the buffer fills and the camera has to slow down while it writes the buffer to your memory card. As long as the number is more than zero, it should not affect your shooting.

Then do so. Turn the aperture ring to its smallest setting (largest f/number). You can control the aperture from the camera body, the same was as with a lens without an aperture ring.

aperture stuck at f00.... 50mm 1.8... please help!!!

I found this camera available for purchase as brand new for $450. Spending nearly $300 to repair an older version may no be a wise choice. You may find there is a market for the camera in its current non-working condition on eBay.

With that said, to your questions. 1) It will be difficult to diagnose without seeing it, but I have a suspicion in mind.

The viewfinder picture is actually what the lens sees, bounced up via mirror to a prism that projects the image to the viewfinder. If the mirror has become dislodged and is stuck in an odd position, the image would not be projected in the viewfinder. You can see the mirror when you remove the lens from the body. The mirror should be centered in the opening but at about a 45 degree angle. If it is loose or otherwise in the wrong place, this could be the problem. If the mirror is stuck and preventing the image in the lens from projecting on the sensor (behind the mirror) no capture will be possible. Other than the optics inside the lens and the mirror, there are few parts that could obstruct the image in the lens from reaching the viewfinder. Is the aperture of the lens open? If not, there may not be enough light to see the image in the viewfinder. This would also indicate that the lens is not opening up to let you see, and may not get set to the correct aperture when taking a picture. The camera usually opens the aperture to allow you to have a nice, bright image in the viewfinder. When you press the shutter release, the lens stops down to what the program says (or your manual selection) and the mirror lifts up out of the way, and the shutter fires.

2) Can you fix it? Maybe. Again, without seeing it - its hard to know for sure what the problem is and I don't know your level of skill either.

My suggestion is to bypass the camera shop that "doesn't know what the problem is but will fix it for $270" (how is that even possible??) and deal directly with Olympus USA Service and Support by phone or email to get an estimate / factory trained tech perform the repair.

Good luck!

First, the "r06" message is NOT an error code. It indicates the number of shots remaining in the internal memory buffer, before the camera must prevent additional shutter actuations so that it may transfer those images already in the buffer to the memory card. This "r" number will decrease with each shot taken in rapid succession until it reaches 0. The shutter release will no longer work until the buffer is transferred to the memory card, then shooting may continue again.

As far as not being able to even see through the viewfinder, it sounds like something may be obstructing the light from reaching the meter and viewfinder. The problem is most likely the position of mirror inside the camera body. With the lens off the body, the mirror should be plainly visible at about a 45 degree angle to the opening. A side view drawing of this is below. The solid red line is the mirror in the normal position. The red dashed line is the up position of the mirror when the shutter is released.



When the mirror is in the "normal" position, the light from the lens is projected on a screen so that the image is visible in the viewfinder for composing and can be metered. When in the "up" position (when the shutter release is fully depressed), the light from the lens is projected on the camera's sensor for as long as set by the manual settings or program; based on ISO, aperture, etc. At the end of this time, the mirror returns to the "normal" position.

If your D100's mirror is not in the lowered 45 degree angle position, the image seen in the viewfinder is inside the camera - not that which the lens would project. Hence, the dark viewfinder, long exposure times and - I'm guessing - severely overexposed pictures because way too much light is striking the sensor because the meter is only seeing darkness.

If the mirror is ok, with the lens removed from the body, look for the aperture lever as shown in the yellow circle in the picture below:



By default, the aperture is at minimum. The camera moves the lever from this position to full open (and anywhere between) as needed. You should gently move the lever to the other end of its travel to open the aperture to maximum. Point the lens away from a light source but preferably at a light colored background. Look through the lens. There should be no obstructions and be clear. Next, look at a dark colored background to find the same results. If you want, you can even allow sunlight to shine through the lens onto a sheet of paper (like a magnifying glass). The result should be a bright circle with no obstructions. Obstructions in the lens will prevent the meter in the camera from getting accurate information about the scene and if significant enough, prevent viewing through the viewfinder.

You may wish to have the camera & lens professionally cleaned and serviced to repair a mirror or lens issue.

If this was helpful, please rate it as such. Good luck!

I don't think you're going to see much difference in sharpness between the two lenses, because they're both such good lenses.

You can use the lens in any exposure mode. Leave the aperture ring set at f/22. Control the aperture from the camera body, the same way you do it with the 18-135mm. The zoom doesn't have an aperture ring --- so just set the ring on the 50mm to f/22 and then pretend it doesn't have one either.

I think the aperture is not shutting down to the opening you set it to. In an SLR, the aperture is normally fully open for viewing through the lens. When you press the button, the mirror flips up and the aperture closes to the figure you have set, then the shutter fires. If you have set a daytime aperture and the aperture sticks, you get a wide open aperture and an overexposed shot, but at night, you have set an open or almost open aperture anyway.

It is possible that the shutter is the problem, but the aperture is more likely to go wrong in my experience. It only takes a drop of oil on the blades. There ought to be a button or lever to shut the aperture down for depth of field preview which you could use to test this, or just look in the lens when the shutter fires to see if the aperture closes.

The 80s 167MT uses good old fashioned mechanical links between the camera body and lens. Remove the lens, and press the depth of field button. If you don't see the lever that connects the aperture control from in the camera body to the lens move, then something's obviouly broken in the camera body.

Turn the aperture ring on the lens to its smallest aperture (largest f/number) and lock it in place. If you need to, you can control the aperture by turning the subcommand dial (the one in front, under the shutter release button, unless you've swapped the dials).

The FEE message indicates that the lens is not set to smallest aperture (highest number). The camera body expects this so it will have full control of the aperture. It sounds like you may be accidentally bumping or turning the aperture ring on the lens while using it or changing lenses. There is a little slide lock to lock it at f/22 to prevent this. Turn the aperture ring to 22 and move the slider so the white dot is next to the orange mark on the lens barrel.