Refrigerator stays on all the time. I defrosted freezer and fridge for two days I cleaned coils fan works fine space between refrigerator and wall is three inches worked fine for one month then started staying on all the time again and the freezer vents got full of ice again.

Modern consumer refrigerators only have coils in the freezer. In the lower back of the freezer there is a small fan and possible a damper (flap that opens/closes) to push cold air from the freezer to the refrigerator. Given that the freezer is 18 deg, it's probably cold enough to keep the fridge area at typically 34 deg.
So the cooling system (compressor, coils, thermostat) are not working properly to keep the freezer at, typically 0 deg. Possible causes: partial loss of refrigerant gas, icing around evaporator coils (in freezer), compressor failing, dust clogging condenser coils (under fridge), condenser fan clogged or broken (under fridge), thermostat failure.
I'd start with condenser. Remove the slotted trim at the bottom front and look in with a flashlight. Are the coils clean? Pull out the fridge and remove the lower back cover (usually cardboard). You can now see the coils and fan. Clean and blow them out.
If it's icing, it probably means freezer door not closing tight. If auto-defrost not working properly it would probably get worse over the period of a few days so not likely.

Good day to you sir John,


A refrigerator or freezer that doesn't cool well enough may have a problem with its evaporator coils, condenser, or condenser fan motor. Frost build-up on evaporator coils, or condenser coils that are covered with dirt, dust, or lint can reduce how well a refrigerator can cool. If you notice ice getting thicker on the inside walls, inside bottom, or inside ceiling of the freezer, you have what is called a frost build-up. The problem is either with warm, moist air getting in through an old inefficient door gasket or the defrost system. Self-defrosting refrigerators have coils and a cooling fan that need to be cleaned regularly. If the coils get coated with any contaminants, they may not cool the refrigerator properly. The coils are usually thin and black and they go through fins that dissipate heat, just like a car's radiator. They are located behind the lower kick-panel or on the back of the refrigerator. To clean them, turn the power off and use this condenser coil cleaning brush, or this condenser coil cleaning brush, and your vacuum cleaner. Even if your coils are below the refrigerator, you won't be able to get to all the condenser coils from the front, so it's a good idea to pull the refrigerator out and clean the coils from the front and the rear of the refrigerator. Give the fan a dusting as well. Sometimes other things can be the reason behind poor cooling, like the condenser fan motor. Anytime the freezer fan is running, the condenser fan should also be running.
A frost build-up inside the refrigerator usually means that there is a problem in the self-defrost system. You may even have damaged door gaskets. When you open the refrigerator door, you also let in a blast of warm, often humid air. This moisture usually freezes onto the evaporator coils immediately. Self-defrost refrigerators are supposed to self-defrost between two and four times out of every 24 hour time-frame. They basically turn off for a few minutes several times a day. A defrost heater kicks on to melt any frost build-up on these coils, which allows the frost and ice to melt, then it drains off to the pan underneath most refrigerators. Unfortunately, when a defrost component fails, too much frost builds up on the evaporator coils. When this happens, the circulating fan can't draw air over these coils. With no air flow over the evaporator coils, the refrigerator compartment will lose its cool.
To determine if the self defrost system is faulty, it's best to remove all the food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn your thermostat to the Off setting, and just leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours, and let the refrigerator defrost. Keep an eye out for an overflow of water from the drip pan on the bottom of the refrigerator.
After everything has completely melted away, set the thermostat back to a regular setting. If your refrigerator starts operating properly, the symptoms lead to there being a problem with one of three other components in the self-defrosting system, the defrost heater, the defrost timer, or the defrost thermostat.
If, after testing these components, the refrigerator still doesn't get your foods cool, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level and you will need to contact a professional appliance repair person.

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Hi.

The self defrost system is defective. The parts comprised in the defrost system are the defrost timer, defrost thermostat, fan and heater. If the evaporator has separate coils for fridge and freezer (double evaporator), then there is also a three way valve that must be tested. Most refrigerators, even door-to-door have a single evaporator.

Here a tip explaining how to deal with a similar problem on a different fridge model: Fridge not cooling. Procedure is similar with your model.

You can find parts and diagrams for most appliances using the links listed on this page: Where do I find parts and diagrams for my appliance?

Regards.

Ginko

Sorry to hear about your problem. Sounds like you have a defrost issue. Hence your unit is not defrosting. All of this apply's if your freezer side has ice on it. If not. you have other issues
Here is a list of some things that can go wrong.
1. Defective heat coil
2. Defective defrost timer
3. Defective defrost sensor
You should call a service company to resolve your issue.

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Hi,

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heatman101

The refrigerator compartment is cooled by the cold air from the freezer. This air is blown in through a vent between the freezer and refrigerator compartment by the evaporator coil fan in the freezer. If the vent is blocked or the fan is not working would be the reason that the freezer is cooling but the refrigerator is hot.

To troubleshoot, you must remove the panel that covers the evaporator coil in the freezer. You will need to remove the contents of the lower section of the freezer to get access to the panel near the bottom of the freezer. Once the panel is removed, you should be able to confirm whether the fan is spining. If it does not turn and it is plugged in and the refrigerator is not in defrost mode, then the problem is with the fan motor.

If the fan is spinning but you notice ice buildup on the coil, the problem is with the defrost circuit. Typically the failures are with the defrost timer not functioning or that the defrost heater has failed. Hope this helps you.

Hi,

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jgjg

the evaporator coils in the freezer are iced up. either someone left the door ajar for a while, you didn't let the fridge sit empty and turned on for a day before filling it, there is an obstruction in the evaporator drain causing water to pool and freeze on the coils, or your evaporator fans are not working. you need to unplug the unit and either: 1- let it set with the doors open and defrost with the ambient air (and soak up the excess water under the fridge); 2- find the back wall where the frost is, take the screws out and remove the wall, and use warm water to melt the ice on the coils (and soak up the excess water); or 3- use hot air (hair dryer). be careful with the hair dryer. just enough to melt the ice and not to heat up the fins and tubing. clean up any extra water inside, check the drain under the coils for obstructions, make sure the fan works, empty the fridge, turn it on, close it, and fill it tomorrow. also, there is a self-defrost timer on the fridge. look in the manual for it's location and setting.

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You likely have a defrost cycle failure. The freezer's cooling coils need to be frosty and cold so the air that the fan pulls over them can cool the fridge section. If the defrost cycle fails, the coils freeze up to a block of ice and air flow suffers (fridge is about 55 degrees F). The freezer stays cold only because there's a block of ice in there now... sometimes that cold "sinks" to the bottom and only the food at the bottom stays frozen (and can even freeze food at the bottom of the fridge compartment while the rest is warm). To be sure, you'll need to take the rear interior panel off the freezer back wall and check the coils to see if they are frozen solid. If they are then there's a defrost cycle failure. If they are showing a nice white frosty pattern evenly all over the coils then that's normal and maybe the evap fan (right above the coils) is not blowing air up properly or is not working at all. That fan should run if the compressor is running, etc. the only time it doesn't run is during an actual defrost cycle. Once you find out what condition the coils are in it should be simple to direct you further on the problem.