When i turn on switch all i hear is a clicking sound but unit will not start

Check the batteries of your remote control, replace the batteries, press power button. You should hear a click from the unit. If no sound from the unit, check if there is power going to your unit. If no power, reset the breaker by pulling the handle to off position and then switch it on. For disconnect switch replace the fuse and then switch it in on position.

do you hear a click sound, when you turn key to start position? if no sound, possible faulty ign switch. another possibility is an anti-theft issue. ( especially aftermarket theft system ) if you do hear a click when you attempt to start, more than likely the starter is at fault.

SOUNDS LIKE A PRESSURE SWITCH MALFUNCTION OR A OBSTRUCTED FLUE EXHAUST. 2 FLASHES MEANS YOU ARE IN SYSTEM LOCKOUT. ATTEMPT TO START 3 TIMES THEN IN LOCKOUT MODE RIGHT? YOU WILL NEED TO TURN OFF AT T-STAT OR BREAKER TO RE-SET UNIT, OR WAIT 60 MINUTES & IT WILL DO IT AUTOMATICALLY. WHEN IT CALLS FOR HEAT THE DRAFT INDUCER MOTOR WILL COME ON, THIS WILL CREATE A VACCUM THAT OPENS THE PRESSURE SWITCH PROVING DRAFT INDUCER IS VENTING, THE VACCUM CREATED CAUSES THE PRESSURE SWITCH TO OPEN PROVIDING POWER TO THE IGNITION CONTROL. THIS IS WHERE YOUR PROBLEM IS ACCORDING TO YOUR DISCRIPTION. TRY TO DISCONNECT VACCUM LINE FROM DRAFT INDUCER MOTOR & SUCK ON IT WHILE LISTENING FOR A CLICKING SOUND AT PRESSURE SWITCH. IF YOU DON\'T HEAR THE CLICKING SOUND WHEN YOU DO THIS, THEN YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE PRESSURE SWITCH. IF YOU DO HEAR THE CLICKING SOUND THE PROBLEM IS WITH AN OBSTRUCTION IN THE FLUE VENTING. THIS IS SOMETIMES CAUSED BY DEBRIS GETTING LODGED IN THE PORT AT INDUCER MOTOR WHERE THE VACCUM LINE FROM PRESSURE SWITCH IS CONNECTED. TRY TO CLEAR OBSTRUCTION WITH COMPRESSED AIR OR A WIRE HANGER. THIS SHOULD FIX YOUR PROBLEM. GOOD LUCK. HOPE THIS WAS HELPFUL.

Maybe the flasher unit under dash is bad, shorting out. Do the hazards work at all?

Either u got problem in ur ignition switch contactor(it is located aty the end of ur ignition key assembly) or the starter solenoid.

Do u hear any clicking sound when u try to crank ur ignition key? if u hear some clicking sound that means ur starter solenoid got problem.


If u don't hear ny clicking sound, that means ur contactor in the switch is at fault!


better bring ur car to ur nearest garage to fix on that, if u can fix it it by urself try it.

sounds like ur tstat has gone out

It's more than likely to be the multifunction switch , the contacts get dirty and cause the flasher to continue to click . The flasher and hazard switch are one unit behind the dash , that's why you hear the sound from there.

The next step would be cleaning your multifunction switch. Clicking it into place wears away at it, leaving metal shavings in the grease surrounding parts. When enough metal accumulates, it likes to short and constantly complete the circuit.

Good luck and keep me posted, this was a recall and the fix was to clean the grease used, and or replace the unit.

This is a problem which could have many solutions. if your dryer has a bad door switch your dryer will not operate,or operate with the door open, depending on how the switch is burned, you can easily test this by opening you door with power connected and seeing whether or not the light bulb comes on, and weather or not your can hear the clicking sound that the switch makes. if you do not, the switch is gone. door switch part number is 131843101. another possible problem is your start switch is gone and there is no signal to the motor when you turn it to start, telling it to operate. start switch part number is 131447800. you can try turning the drum by HAND while trying to start the dryer to see if it is a bad motor or start relay, if you hear a low grumble or hesitation it could be one of these. lastly the most simple solution could be that there is simply a burned wire somewhere along the units electrical system have a good look and smell for anything out of the ordinary. hope this helps

Thanks

These units have protection circuits that will prevent the speaker relay from engaging if there is a problem detected. There is also a circuit that causes a delay in the engaging of the relay to allow the amp to "settle in". This prevents the old "thump" that was common in older models when the set was first turned on. In your case, either the RC circuit is faulty causing excessive time to pass before turning on the relay, or there is excessive voltage floating around that the protection circuits are detecting and thus preventing the relay from turning on.

In any case, this will require additional diagnosis using some test equipment. This is not a problem that will be easily resolved remotely. Please bring this unit to a repair shop for an estimate. Once you have that info, we can assist with the actual repair.

Dan

The compressor is not coming on and some part of that unit has failed. Do you hear any clicking sounds along with the buzzing sound? Recommend that you shut the unit down (remove power from it) until a service tech can listen to it try to start up.

The power company-installed load management system is probably a red hearing. That system will either fully turn off the unit or allow it to turn on/start up.